2004 Chevy Tahoe keeps dying new batteries,alternator,starter,electrical all gd

oceaneyes69

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Have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe LT 3 4x4, keeps dying on me. New batteries (3) so far, alternator checks good, starter checks good, no error codes. Even had all electrical checked to ensure everything is going to"sleep" like it's supposed to and NOTHING comes back as staying in the "on" mode to provide ANY INFO as to why or what continues to drain the battery??!!! Vehicle has been to 3 garages, no one was able to fix it!

It has now been at the dealership for 2 weeks and they just called with the exact same report!!!! No one can figure out what is causing this vehicle to die after the battery is either charged or jumped! It stays charged for approximately anywhere to 24-48 hours and then it's Completely Dead again!!! Vehicle has 109,000 miles on it. Well kept like brand new inside and outside. I've replaced the battery 3 times, same exact thing happens. The Dealership is 3rd garage to have it they have had her now for two weeks!!! everything checks fine after it's been jumped off, But within 24 hours dead again! electrical sleep modes checked, checking normal that goes nothing staying on vehicle shut down causing battery drain!? Someone please help. She just turned 109,000 miles phenomenal ride. need figure out what could be this non start drain issue. thanks in advance for ANY help or info!!

All maintenance has been up kept. If ANYONE out there can PLEASE give me any information or any tips on what could be causing this truck to continuously die I would greatly appreciate it. She's a WONDERFUL vehicle and up until this problem I've never had any major issues out of her. I want to fix and keep her not have to get rid of my truck. Thanks again in advance! Sincerely
"pulling my hair out at this point" :/
 

billr

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I had a problem like this caused by the ignition switch (not that particular type vehicle). Sometimes the switch would not go all the way to the "off" position and would leave the alternator field energized. It was related to whether I just turned the key off and didn't wiggle the steering wheel so that the locking dogs on the wheel and switch all engaged and settled into the most centered position for the switch. It was an intermittent problem, sometimes the car could sit for weeks and be OK and sometimes it would drain the battery in a day or two; so I chased it for about 20 years! Once I found it, I didn't even change the switch, I'm just more careful about how I turn it off when it is going to sit for a while.

Lots of babble there, point is: Have them check the ignition switch and its adjustment with the key lock, those are often separate units and connected mechanically with a linkage of some kind.
 

kev2

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I always ask and use the answer as a starting place-
> is vehicle STOCK - nothig added- remote starter, tow harness, audio, lights, alarm?

WOW most replies I ever got - I searched TSB's (dead battery) and up popped a list, some are below- AND 1 was on point to billr's suggestion... ask your technician to check for and others.

#04-06-03-002......#02-06-03-010A ..... #PIC3589C ...#02-06-04-015A
 

greasemonkey

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Have them disconnect the main battery cable from the alternator to the battery after ther battery has been charged and see if the battery still drains after 24-48 hours if it doesnt then you know that it is alternator related. Most common is a bad diode causing battery to drain. But at least then you can rule out the alternator. HTH Greasemonkey :)
 

Gus

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A bad alternator would show up on a parasitic draw test.....hopefully, the dealership did a bulletin search, and even called TAC for help....

A bad module could turn on an electrical system........once ran into a bad OnStar module.....it would turn on during a "check", and was suppose to turn off and it didn't, would drain the battery......

In this case, I'm sure a parasitic draw was done......all the modules went to "sleep"........but unless it's CONSTANTLY monitored, a module could come on, and produce a huge draw on the battery......having the car for two weeks, a process of elimination should have been done.......disabling a number of circuits at one time.......if it still dies, enable them, recharge, and then disable several more circuits......time consuming, but if you look at the power distribution system of the vehicle, you can plan accordingly......
 

NickD

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One dirty word is "always hot" for these so-called convenience items. Use a power MOSFET transistor that only requires sub microamp currents to switch it on. With one vehicle I ran into, and with plenty of rain, was only a minor leak in the windshield, dripping practically invisible water under the dash.

Is this vehicle kept outside? Getting a lot of wet weather? Point out the environmental conditions. I know exactly what you mean, darn near need an inductive pickup on the negative battery lead with 0.01 ampere resolution feeding a chart recorder unless you want to stand there and watch it. When it dries off, everything is okay again.

With your discharge rates, pulling a bit more than an ampere of current. One temporary solution is to buy one of these Harbor Freight 12 V chargers for around 7 bucks and kept it plugged in. Outputs just a bit over an ampere that can compensate for this. Alternator can pull 8 amps if switched on, would discharge your battery in less than a day. Some light bulb must be coming on.
 
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