for me the best way to install the t belt was to install it onto the top belt idler bearing last. I made sure I had all the slack out of the belt up to both cam sprockets. I laid the top bearing on top of the belt and had wife pry down on it until I could start the bearing mounting bolt into the block. You can pry against the metal, rear belt guard--it has a nice lip to pry against. Note that the crank sprocket has two identical factory dimples stamped onto it. One is on the back ring that works with the crank sensor. The other is stamped on the forward face of the sprocket (closest to the fender). They are 90 deg. apart. Only one is the crank timing mark. You might want to mark that before removing the old belt. Apparently the crank oil seals give problems. Mine failed after 5 min. running, so I had to do it all over again, with a new seal. On the second go around I forgot to rotate the crank 60 deg to get the pistons off top center, and one cam went over center while I was holding it with my ratchet, so it pinged the valves into the piston. It didn't hurt anything tho--no bent valves. It's a fairly straight forward job, esp. the second time. Power steering bracket is in way of the hydraulic belt tensioner, but it takes patience..