2006 Buick Rendezvous windshield wiper motor

nickb2

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When I write irish green, I dont mean green beer on paddy wank day.

What I meant to say is I seem to have read you swapped a relay or two in the power distribution center, yes or no. If so, you may have disturbed something there.

The corrosion often takes a green format like color. Hence my nickname of it irish green. And it does wreak havoc in regions like where I live.

Now you mention a key fob glitch, that also could be a problem. As usual, I disclaim, it is saturday morning, and no irish whiskey to be found, only black coffee cuz I forgot to buy milk and it is raining cats and dogs and too lazy to fight the wind. ;)
 

nickb2

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Do you think that may have triggered a security thing if I used the key not programmed?
That is a very good possibility. You can try a reset sequence of the passlock that gm had back in 2006. I will try to find that and link it here.

Time going by,

Ok, found it. Here it is.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I am pretty sure this is a passlock 3 gen and not the 2 gen so I will link this one.

 

nickb2

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If that doesnt work, I will go to my database, but right now, trying to use methods most of you use. such as google is your friends stuff.

 

nickb2

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Going back to irish green, if it has gone beyond the brownish color and is green, that means the solder has been severely compromised. Most affected in these older buicks where the pdc and mopar slash dodge had same issues. You dont see that much in japan cars, but sure see a heck of allot of that in gm ford and mopar.

Why do you ask

ask the other nick, he is better at that than I am, he apparently designed some of this stuff . Something to do with zinc plating or other things he references to alot.


Question, do you have access to a live data scanner that can see security, or do you just have a global obd2 code reader
 

nickb2

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So this is going to be my last intervention here until we hear back from op, cuz when he mentions he did a relay swap, well, looking at diagram, no relay to swap.

Thx bill. ;) mostly, this is a logic board issue, and the only relays availailable are in the PDC. which is also known as irish green.
 

NickD

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Something about our EPA banning electroplating around in 1987 just like they banned solid state production under Nixon that created this agency back in 1972. Rather than address the problems neutralizing the required acids, moved the entire production of solid state production to the Philippines so that acid is going into their soil instead of ours.

My company was strict on electroplating, copper and brass corrode like crazy, we didn't have success in Mexico where most of the plating was moved to so shipped our product to Thialand , terminals were small, so could be shipped via the cargo aircraft. Then majors like GM and Ford just skipped this very important process. Problem I had with these was the ignition switch power window switches brake and clutch switches, climate control switches were turn green.

Had to take them apart, used a fine wire brush. and coated with GB Ox-Gard that helped prevent oxidation. Old buddies at GM were going nuts. I was curious why my 92 DeVille was not having problems, they used tungsten contacts like used in ignition points, but apparently since then put sales guys in the executive offices and hired more bean counters. With my last GM vehicles, on my no-buy list.

Other EPA change was leadless solder illogical reason too much crap from China ending up in our land fills rather than shipping this crap back to China. Never adhered as well as 60-40 lead tin solder, and at first, lots of problems in developing the proper flux. Then rushing wave soldering through production, leaving flux joints in the solder junctions, would corrode, expand, open circuit.

There are reason for you failures. Can recall major problems with leadless solder, are PCB pads had to be made much larger on ceramic boards that had to fit in a very tight spot. China is still using lead tin solder, and for my company to survive, had to move there. EPA was a bunch of stupid basterds, could never help our industries, just fine us or kick us out. Yes I am bitter.

And if they used asbestos in the World trade centers, would still be standing, also worked with asbestos, just a paper mask for protection just like covid-19 masks, but not quite sure about this.

Don't bother writing your congressmen on these problems, also a bunch of dumb aholes and won't know what you are talking about.

Should just advertise, if you want problems we've got problems.
 

NickD

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Looked at that windshield wiper circuit, using resistors for speed control? What stone age engineer designed this, zero power loss if using a variable duty cycle waveform, cheaper and more reliable than resistors. Most blower motors are 25 amps, 360 watts, at 50 % speed, resistor has to disipate 180 watts, really a stupid design.
 
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Hey guys sorry busy morning for me I'm also a student and have homework trying to knockout haha. Learned a lot just from you guys posting notably the Irish Greene lol. Anyways I only have a universal or cheap OBD. I've also used the torque app successfully with a WiFi/Bluetooth reader. It's not showing any codes, but I'm going to head out there in a bit and maybe try the reprogramming of the keys. Thanks for that nickb2. I've actually done the reprogramming before it's a very tedious but thankfully easy process. And honestly I'm hoping that's it. I'm not 100% when it comes to electronics, but trying to learn more each day as obviously they play a huge role in everything especially cars nowadays. As for the engineering I just feel GM has not been known for their quality with these cars. I saw another issue with other Buicks indicating they had a recall for their fuel pump relay located in the rear seats of the car, due to rubbing etc lol and I'll never forget the first Buick my mother got the door card fell right off of it! Brand new! Anyways I appreciate all the input, so far this seems like a great community. I'll post back once I test the key thing with the security!
 

billr

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Wow, there has been way too much"expert" blather and FUD here! I will try again to get this back "on track" and helping the OP.

Confirm: this is a "crank-but-no-fire" situation, not a "no-crank"? Can you hear the fuel pump come on for a couple of seconds when going KOEO? Have you checked for spark while cranking? Have you checked for injector pulses? Have you checked fuel pressure? Have you checked for compression in any manner (even listening for the engine sound)? If you have spark, have you tried a quick blast of starting-fluid?

Yes, it is probably an anti-theft issue, but why not get all the basic checks out of the way before diving into PCM/BCM electronics possibilities. Some of the checks on my list are very easy, some require a tool or a bit of effort; but all are easier and more methodic in chasing this down if the anti-theft "relearn" gives no joy.

PS: There is no "Irish green" corrosion in that picture, some gray/brown crud, yes. All the green you see in that picture is the (normal) color of the solder-mask. Thanks though, nickb2, for the schematic and all the other good info you have contributed to this thread...
 
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Wow, there has been way too much"expert" blather and FUD here! I will try again to get this back "on track" and helping the OP.

Confirm: this is a "crank-but-no-fire" situation, not a "no-crank"? Can you hear the fuel pump come on for a couple of seconds when going KOEO? Have you checked for spark while cranking? Have you checked for injector pulses? Have you checked fuel pressure? Have you checked for compression in any manner (even listening for the engine sound)? If you have spark, have you tried a quick blast of starting-fluid?

Yes, it is probably an anti-theft issue, but why not get all the basic checks out of the way before diving into PCM/BCM electronics possibilities. Some of the checks on my list are very easy, some require a tool or a bit of effort; but all are easier and more methodic in chasing this down if the anti-theft "relearn" gives no joy.

PS: There is no "Irish green" corrosion in that picture, some gray/brown crud, yes. All the green you see in that picture is the (normal) color of the solder-mask. Thanks though, nickb2, for the schematic and all the other good info you have contributed to this thread...

I did hear the fuel pump engage just now, however there is no security light or anything from what I can see. I've got my fiance stopping by after work to pick up a multimeter for me. Gonna test the battery although that should be okay. I think what I'll do as well is make a video of the issue and what I've checked I feel like that may be a bit better than paragraphs and paragraphs at least on my end haha thanks guys. I haven't done much compression or spark, because prior to installing the motor it was starting up fine. Would you recommend even something as basic as unplugging the battery for a bit and then plugging it back up?
 
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Looked at that windshield wiper circuit, using resistors for speed control? What stone age engineer designed this, zero power loss if using a variable duty cycle waveform, cheaper and more reliable than resistors. Most blower motors are 25 amps, 360 watts, at 50 % speed, resistor has to disipate 180 watts, really a stupid design.
I feel that, every bit of this car is just ugh haha. I just want it up and running to sell. But I don't want to sell anyone a lemon either. Its honestly a nice car, but in terms of maintenance there's a lot of dumb design and frustration.
 
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Hey guys as promised did a short video regarding the issue, may have blabbed a bit here and there.
Video here
Took a multimeter and the battery came back at 12.84 sitting. I didn't notice any security thing going on. I'm wondering perhaps if I'm overlooking something. I wish I was a bit more electrically inclined. I went through the fuses and relays and none of them looked fried. I took out the connection for the wiper motor and didn't start either. Thanks again for all the input!
 
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