2007 Fusion AWD C1234 code

PC

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#1
Make
Ford
Model
Fusion AWD
Year
2007
Miles
120K
Engine
3.0
Getting C1234, ABS light, TCS light on. checked right front ABS sensor, no damage found. Cleared code, buttoned it up and ABS light stayed off about a month then came on again. Replaced sensor with Motorcraft BRAB-267-AE5Z-2C204-A, cleared code, light off. Came back on within a week. Cleared code, ABS light off on startup, ABS light comes on above 10 MPH, right front wheel shows 0 MPH, other 3 are consistent with each other. I did not see any damage or debris on the tone ring either. Only other variable was that right front wheel bearing was replaced with a complete MOOG knuckle assembly a few months ago. Any ideas?
 

nickb2

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#3
So if I am reading this right, all is right front. But moog, did some one take time to count the reluctor teeth? maybe you got sold an extra tooth.

Chased one of these mind teasers for a awhile, then I counted with a scope.

Reluctor, bad wheel torque.
 

PC

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#5
Isn't the tone ring, or reluctor on the axle? The axle was not replaced, only hub/bearing/knuckle assembly with Moog LK012 and everything was fine for a few months, now getting a C1234
 

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nickb2

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#6
I see NO electrical sensing stuff on that LK012

You probably damaged, or just throwing parts at it without doing wiggle test, salt water test etc. Take your head out of what was wrong with the car first, focus on what is wrong now since I touched it. Leave ego aside and be honest, you will be surprised at what amount of help you will get.
 

nickb2

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#8
Onthis type of model, there is no tone ring on axle. It is a grease barrier type / mag strip in a 360 fashion. The jey is easy to understand, it is all about angles.
 

PC

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#9
Right front bearing was noisy, so we figured it easier to replace bearing/hub/knuckle assembly instead of pressing bearing. After replacement ABS was fine for a few months, now throws that code. The WSS is not integral to the hub, it is separate. BTW, this thing is AWD if that makes a difference.
 
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#10
How many connectors between the ABS sensor and the ABS module? Usually a short lead on the sensor that plugs into another connector, where that one plug into the main ABS harness.

Not necessarily military grade connectors, more like shyt from China. I just cut the darn things off and hard solder them with heat shrink. It not like I am going to unplug connectors every five minutes, more like never.

Been driving in ice and snow for over 67 years and only have one opinion with ABS, it worse than worthless especially after those idiots in congress made this law.

Idiots claim they do no interfere with normal braking, sure do when a valve in these cheap made in China crap stays closed, no brakes to that wheel period.

With this new crap need up to a 5,000 buck scanner so you can operate the ABS pump for proper brake bleeding. Don't write your congressman about this, don't know anything that is even mildly technical.
 

PC

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#11
I agree, much of these electronics do not belong in the environment a vehicle is subject. Drove many vehicles over the years with hydraulic brakes, even a tractor with independent mechanical brakes on drive wheels only with no problems. No ABS. Now all this electronic garbage where the repair costs more than the vehicle is worth. Past years, everything was over engineered and rebuildable, if it failed at all, now components are marginal and disposable. Used to carry a small tool kit in the trunk for field repairs, now just carry a card from the auto club, so I guess we're making progress.
 
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#12
When EPA made OBD II law in USA, 1996, started carrying towing insurance, storing code in flashram.

12V from the ignition switch to the top of the coil to breaker points to ground, can't get simpler than this. Engine driven fuel pump, could make that pump like new again for a buck kit, and mechanical carburetor.

Now electric fuel pumps inconveniently mounted in gas tanks, electric fuel injectors and computer controlled sparks, signals have to travel over a million micro sized transistors to do the same thing.

Take an eighth inch diameter magnetized bar, with about a hundred turns of 40 AWG wire on it. Should be taped and dipped in silastic first as a barrier, but can't do that, dipped it directly into epoxy with thermal expansion, that breaks the 40 AWG wire, no signal for the ABS sensor.

Delco gave up to China, thanks Bill Clinton.
 

PC

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#14
Well I am cautiously optimistic this is :fixed: as we have gone 2 weeks with no ABS light. Seems it boiled down to air gap between wheel sensor and tone ring AFTER the knuckle/bearing assembly was replaced due to failed bearing. Since that was the last part replaced, it was suspect, so after the tone ring looked nice and clean and the face of the new WSS appeared worn, we suspected air gap. We checked air gap on the untouched left wheel which was .023 and air gap on the right wheel was zero. We sourced another Motorcraft sensor, fabricated a copper washer to achieve .023 air gap, cleared the code and that seems to resolve it. The attached images show the teeth appear polished and the face of the sensor is worn down.
RF WSS.jpg Reluctor Wheel.jpg