2007 Nisssan Versa

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#1
friend has a 2007 nissan versa 1.8L auto getting trouble codes P0038 and P1148 the first is saying H02S heater control circuit high bank 1 sensor 2 and the P1148 is nissan specific showing closed loop control bank 1 i don't have alot of tech goodies to do better figure just generic scan tool and a bit of diy bu t just wondering if this could be caused by a faulty o2 sensor just trying to help a friend fix her car
thanks in advance
 

billr

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#2
Yeah, there is a good chance the second code (P1148) is caused by the same conditions setting the first (P0038). Just keep in mind that the P0038 does not mean the O2 sensor is bad and should be changed; it means there is a problem in that circuit. It could be a fuse for that heater, wiring to it, connectors in the wiring, or even the PCM itself (relax, that's not likely). Do some trouble-shooting before just "throwing a sensor at it".
 
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#3
thanks for reply i am not versed ( no pun intended) on this electronic stuff i will let her know all i know is the used dealer she bought it at wanted to charge her around $300 to fix it i think thats what she said but trying to help her out but am not a pro i can do most stuff except the electronics but what else should i try to say what it could be other than maybe a fuse?
 

billr

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#4
There are a couple of easy tests. Disconnect the sensor from the harness and measure resistance between the two pins on the sensor connector for its heater. Somebody can provide the specified resistance (probably about 10 ohms), but if you see an "open circuit" you know the heater is bad for sure. That test can be done with key off, engine off. If the heater resistance is OK, then check for 12V in the harness between the pins that feed that heater. That probably has to be done with engine running, and may well set another code, but that code can be cleared after the sensor is reconnected. Again, somebody else will have to provide a diagram of what those sensor pins are, I don't have that info handy.
 
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#5
ok may as well be speaking a foreign language i have no clue how to do any of that nor the tools to and not good with reading wiring diagrams or that stuff more just a hands on diy guy but will relay info and see if maybe someone she knows can help a bit more than my abilities but thanks for the help been a few yrs since i been on here
 
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#6
In simpler language....car should be perfectly drivable with this condition, unless the vehicle needs to pass an emissions inspection.

Another shop may offer a better price for this repair.
 
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#7
yea its an emission inspection issue and the lady knowing absolutely nothing on cars except how to add gas i did not want to see her get taken advantage of and tell her shop around a bit thanks again for advise and help
 
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#8
as mentioned the p11xx code is caused by P0038

check fuse for sensor -#54 underhood -
sensor red wire 12v . from fuse
ohm terminal 2 red wire to terminal 3 green wire - 3.4 - 4.4Ω

suggest only a NISSAN sensor that Ω is critical.
 

nickb2

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#9
Ok, here is me being a a$$hole :ROFL I always prone towards OEM but in this type of issue, I do CHEAP out sometimes. We don't have emmision testing up here in quebec canada ;D 8) :eek:

Check for exhaust leaks for aft/post cat O2 sensor b1 s2. This is a four banger. Heater can be checked as Kev2 said. Try to check ohmage from pcm to rule out a short to ground. Also check that damn fuse :idea: $.02 :thx A proper scanner will provide heater actuation on/off info. Most ppl don't have that kind of scanner. Yet even know how to interpret the data. A bit of education does the trick and after that easy to comprehend. Lambda index and sound reasoning usually get these issues clear real fast. A lean condition is a whole other story, so consider yourself lucky, you probably just need a new bank 2 sensor.

It is in closed loop, meaning the aft sensor is not correcting pre sensor. Fuel ratio out of balance and mpg will suffer. Possible catalytic failure in the near future if not corrected soon. Look at almost 800$ plus that pesky O2 sensor to boot :eek:

The heater is only for NOX to get faster to a higher temp and reduce emmisions. I will also say that heater wiring is real hard to solder, so if it is a split wire, I use these to make a good clean easy fixhttp://engine-codes.com/p0141_nissan.htmlhttp://www.obd-codes.com/p0038

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15733-SG1273-Oxygen-Sensor-Universal-O2-Sensor-/131297911904

Notice heat shrinks and proper crimp connection and also rubber plugs. I have used the screw on bosch connections with corrosion issues and tend to stay away from those. I have alot of them in my tool chest and just use them for a quick cheap fix when the customer wants to cheap out. But as I said, soldering the heater wires is a biatch.

Be sure to heat the threads/o2 seat well and cool down 3 times before attempting to strong arm it out. You will most likely strip it and end up replacing aft exhaust/cat which is mucho $$ if not careful.


@Kev2, where in the heck did you find that ohm icon?? :ROFL My keyboard is strange enough as I have french on board. :eek:

If wiring/12volt and ground are good and kosher, swap the O2 aft sensor. The piezoelectric may be good, yet heater element will alway code up and fail emission test. Easy fix. :thx
 
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#11
i will pass all the info on to the owner of the vehicle and let her decide what she wants to do
 

nickb2

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#12
Ha, I have 6 different keyboards and not one of them has that icon. So @ billr, was that a joke? Or french version keyboards don't have it for lack of space for punctuation and accents and such. I am serious, I WANT that icon, quicker to type. ;)

I feel like a boob/noob after trying really really hard the ^^^+1 :ROFL That is me laughing at myself.

I actually did a google search and found alt+234 and other nonsense, guess my secretarial days are over for today.

:-X
 
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#14
you can reconfigure the machine to utilize the Ω as a shift - like the symbols on the numerials keys...
press shift and 2 you could get Ω insted of @

OR KISS just copy and paste Ω