2011 Accord EXL 269k miles 4 cylinder. Acted strange while starting

ChevyDude

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Sep 7, 2007
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252
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Make
Honda
Model
EXL
Year
2011
Miles
269k
Engine
4 cylinder
Hello Guys,

Last night was cooler than it has been and late last night I started the car and pulled into the garage and shut it off, very short cycle.

Today I went to start the car and it wouldn't start....sounded like mid wanted to but wouldn't. I pushed down on the gas pedal a little while spinning it over and it fired up, sounded a little rough, but ran. Stopped the car, started right up and all seems to run fine. Drove it about ten miles and checked for codes with OBDII monitor, nothing. She fires right up like it never happened.

Help!!

Thanks in advance.
 

billr

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Check ECT in live-data. Make sure it reads "reasonable" when the engine is both cold and hot; but really you need to check the next time the engine won't fire.

And check fuel-pressure; but it also needs to be checked when the engine won't fire. That is usually a trickier task, so I would check the fuel-pressure and if it is OK when the engine will run, then focus on the ECT first.
 

ChevyDude

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Check ECT in live-data. Make sure it reads "reasonable" when the engine is both cold and hot; but really you need to check the next time the engine won't fire.

And check fuel-pressure; but it also needs to be checked when the engine won't fire. That is usually a trickier task, so I would check the fuel-pressure and if it is OK when the engine will run, then focus on the ECT first.
Thanks for the input....pardon my ignorance, what is ECT? I also forgot to mention that when it did fire up I think the engine RPMs was around 2000, seems a little high....and then she simmered down. And it kinda sputtered slightly
 

billr

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ECT is "Engine Coolant Temperature". It is, in essence, the "choke" on modern cars and greatly affects the starting of an engine.

And check the "Throttle Position" (TP), that can also influence starting. TP sensors are usually potentiometers with mechanical components; they will wear out eventually, for sure.
 

JackC

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I would also consider that it was simply a glitch due to the several slightly unusual conditions it went through. With no codes, I would drive it for awhile and see if you have any further problems. If all is well, call it an unknown sensor, computer glitch and go on with life.
 

nickb2

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Sharply recommended advice from Mr JackC.

A 2011 accord uses VTEC seeing the miles on the car, maybe try a oil change with a twist. Honda should imho always have NGK premium plugs and a good clean of the crankcase.

I have seen this numerous times. I recommend a three step process. TBI thorough cleaning, injector cleaner, as Bill r mentioned, it's tricky.

If you can't, try a can of concentrate in full tank of gas.

At work we use this process and have seen smooth idle on old school Honda, just need to free up the power train
 

nickb2

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@ work we used to use otc 2001A but the product for some strange reason was discontinued.

So now I use seafoam as the late Mr NickD use to say. It works.

I miss that old man. He was a wealthy sort of person. I huge Canadian North nod.


Ok, back to thread. Once you do the tri thing. THEN, you put in a brand new pair of NGK Iridium, Honda vtech sing all day

If you have a live data thing which is bi directional cool. If you don't cuz your a Chevy guy, dang, I see it red

Getting ahead of myself. Bought a ford, and now I hate the f ING thing. Sure, it will do doughnuts, shyte can't keep straight. Need to hook up back end it goes wobbly
 

nickb2

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My secret, Mopar combustion chamber cleaner in liquid form. Half gas. If no Mopar shyte around,, go for seafoam.
 

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billr

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Are you saying your Mustang project has gone sour?
 

ChevyDude

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It has been driven probably 20-25 driving cycles and knock on wood has not repeated.
 
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