2011 camry stalls at stoplight

t99m

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#1
Make
Toyota
Model
Camry
Year
2011
Miles
130,000
Engine
4 cylinder
2011 Toyota camry 4cyl.
130,000 miles, stalls at stoplights . Low idle in drive. Replaced accelerator pedal a year ago. Problem went away. Now it's back. Any suggestions? No engine light.
 
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#2
I can not come up with any reason that replacing the accel pedal would solve that problem a year ago. On the other hand, maybe if it is an electonic drive buy wire throttle system instead of direct old fashioned linkage type, I could be wrong?
Sounds like a coincidence or you are giving us the wrong part that was replaced.

But a rather common problem is the EGR leaking at idle or some other vacuum leak. That could be a good place to start looking for low idle problems.
 

t99m

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#3
I can not come up with any reason that replacing the accel pedal would solve that problem a year ago. On the other hand, maybe if it is an electonic drive buy wire throttle system instead of direct old fashioned linkage type, I could be wrong?
Sounds like a coincidence or you are giving us the wrong part that was replaced.

But a rather common problem is the EGR leaking at idle or some other vacuum leak. That could be a good place to start looking for low idle problems.[/QUOTE

Jack
It was a electronic accelerator pedal sensor.
I will start to look for a vacuum leak or egr valve. Thanks.
 
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#4
I am 85 yrs old and therefore not up to date on the electronic acc pedal sensor. But if that was the problem before and the syptoms are the same, I would be suspect of it again. But I would think if it was that the CEL would be on??? Was it on a year ago?
 

t99m

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#7
This car does not have an EGR valve & the idle control valve is integrated in the throttle body. I have cleaned the throttle body. I can borrow a scan tool. What should I test? Also the stalling is intermittent. Thanks.
 
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#8
How about a dirty MAF? (probably not the issue)

How about AC system? If compressor continues to pump even though "switch is turned off", idle speed would be affected.
 

grcauto

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#9
The pedal sensor has two mirror inputs to the PCM. Graph them and see what you have.
 

t99m

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#10
Grc
Can you tell a little more about the scan tool you use for this test? What system selection on the scan tool. Thanks.
 

grcauto

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#11
Does your scan tool graph? If so, just bring up the sensor pid's and graph them while applying and releasing the pedal and see if they are mirror images of each other.
 

t99m

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#12
Grc,

Thank you. I am going to borrow a scan tool with a graph. I will response soon.
 

t99m

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#13
Grc,

I have a 3160g with graphing. does the vehicle need to be running or am I looking for voltage? The scan tool looks like it can measure acc pedal a & b but not on the same graph. can you help with the test procedure? New symptom. driving at highway speed rpm needle was fluctuating 500-1,000 rpm, but not seem to change speed or engine sound. Stopped, shut off then it drove fine.
 

grcauto

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#14
You want to look at these signals at the same time. You can't graph them together? Don't need the engine started just the key on. As for what you are looking at the sensors should mirror one another. One goes high while the other goes low and visa versa. If they vary more than a small amount it'll code.
You tach is derived from the crank sensor. It sounds like it's having an issue. Do you have a way to test for alternator ripple? You can do it with a dvom.
 
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#15
If you can only view one graph at a time, go back a step and watch the info on the list. On my scanner the throttle circuits are kind of a group. Move the throttle slowly, because the refresh rate is slow when looking at live data this way. Remember that these "redundant circuits" may be designed to work slightly skewed (so that PCM can differentiate?) so look for inconsistency in the sweep of each circuit.
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