2011 Nissan Maxima CAN lines

[Alkapwn]

I own a 2011 Nissan Maxima, it was invloved in a flood and is now listed as rebuilt. It starts if you jump the starter, however I cannot get it to start with the button. My scanner only goes up to 2009 so I cant scan all of the modules it has has however the ones I am able to scan, complain about there being an error on the CAN lines. I checked the Continuity between the ECM TCM and BCM on the CAN lines and they are continuous. I read somewhere that NTB 10-066 provides information for diagnosing CAN problem, which is what has brought me here.

I will get this car running one way or another, the only question is in how much time, I hope you guys can help me shorten that variable as much as possible.

Thanks in Advance.

 

[kev2]

flood cars are considered - total loss- and for good reason.

The CAN system is @ 8 modules - the first step would be to SCAN - and the codes will likely be U series..
The troubletree is pages pages long with the CONSULTII -

Only suggestions I have are- emissions testing in your area?
>upgrade scanner - ALL capabilities- all modules.
>with a wiring diagram work the no crank, eliminate issues one by one-

When I see this type of issue -communication- I always ask - any remote starter or aftermarket components, they are first suspect.

 

[nickb2]

try one of these models

http://www.jegs.com/i/Sunpro/885/CP7853/10002/-1

Check grounds and shorts :ROFL

Do you need a wiring or r u ok? $$

 

[Alkapwn]

Thanks for the prompt replies.

@kev2 there are no aftermarket components of any kind installed on this vehicle. And yes the communication code is U series, it is U1001 and it appears in both the ECM and TCM. I can't scan the BCM due to the the outdated scanner...

It is a flood car, it's had atleast about $3k worth of parts replaced to make it road worthy, this includes the harnesses, keyless receiver, BCM, ECM (used), to name a few. Which is why I strongly believe it's very close to being fully functional.

Honestly at this point I believe programming the BCM would solve the no start issue. The only problem with that is that the dealer claims none of the modules respond to their laptop in order to program. The only thing I could make of this is that I need to clear the modules of the CAN error codes prior to attempting a program, which is why I'm here xD

And no, no emission testing here...
@nickb2

Haha yeah it would be easier... As I said the harnesses are new so I doubt there'd be any shorts, however I did double check today just to make sure all the grounds were there which they are.. And I do have access to wiring diagrams. Just not that TSB...

 

[nickb2]

sorry, feel like sh$t, am at mt grf, will post back, dog is pissing me off 8)

Check pid data sorry will post back

 

[kev2]

I do NOT see NTB 10066 listed for a 2011 missan maxima S 3.5L. USA

the U1000 is attached (useless) - will add if I find something thinking a starter circuit MAY be helpful

 

[kev2]

Hope this attaches - my NIssan link is DONE for today - I guess no sense of humor

 

[Alkapwn]

@kev2

The first attachment referring to U1001, seems to point to LAN-15 for diagnostics however that was not included. The starting info just confirms that the starter isn't the issue, but I will save the diagram which might come in handy.

I'm attaching where I read about NTB 10-066 it is on a chart for P0725 which the vehicle also has.

Thanks for the help.

**Update** I found it under a 2009 Nissan Maxima S 3.5 I went through the basic diagnostic it states (the one that doesn't require Consult III just a meter) and I checked the resistance at the DLC everything seems normal, except the voltage, however I'm not sure if the voltage should be tested with key on or off. With the key off they are both in mV, with it on, High goes up to 1.5V while Low CAN remains in mV, not sure what to make of it since the bulletin doesn't say how to proceed. Please advise. Thanks.

 

[kev2]

Will try to attach LAN

 

[Alkapwn]

Yeah, so much for diagnostic procedure...

I don't have a consult 3 other wise this would be easy... I don't want to take it back to the dealer because they'll probably just charge me $150 to tell me they cant do anything again...

I'm pretty sure the HVAC module is no good, since it very likely was covered in water, and the A/C controls do not respond. I haven't replaced it yet, because I'd like the car to work first then worry about the A/C, but could this be the cause of the CAN error?

 

[kev2]

Don't read this as I told you so - flood vehicles comment in the first reply AND I mentioned a consult and the pages and pages of troubleshooting trees.

THen I asked about emissions testing - As its no problem try some work arounds -

You stated -get it running one way or another-
As I suggested - look at a wiring diagram for starter circuit - follow the wiring - MAYBE you will find something OR can bypass for testing...

 

[Mobile Dan]

Internal short in HVAC module could "take down the bus". I would definitely disconnect it if it is not working.

 

[kev2]

I gave it one more try - looked at a 2010 and found this
I hope it attaches

 

[Alkapwn]

@kev2

I'd love to get a consult 3+ but I wouldn't even know where to find one, much less one that's affordable...

In theory I could easily install a button that jumps the starter and starts the car as Lin as the ignition button is at "on" however that is less than ideal...

I did tear into the wiring yesterday just to make see nothing was disconnected and verify the grounds and it all looked good. Only peculiar thing I notices is three connector looking thing behind the instrument panel, that have wires meeting into connectors which jump the wires together. Two of them are for the CAN lines which I checked and it does jump all the wires at the connectors. The thing that's bothering me is that it's my understanding that the can wires should be "twisting around each other to reduce noise and that if straightened out can cause a lot of noise therefore disrupting communication and causing codes...

As for the TSB, I took a look at it, however without the consult I can only test the final part using the multimeter, with that everything is normal except for the voltage...however I'm not sure if the voltage should be tested with key on or off. With the key off they are both in mV, with it on, High goes up to 1.5V while Low CAN remains in mV, not sure what to make of it since the bulletin doesn't say how to proceed.

@MobileDan

I will definitely be ordering a replacement "HVAC amplifier" on Monday from the dealer.

Thanks for all the help guys. ;D

 

[billr]

What are you trying to accomplish here, do you want to end up with a stock-type care with all original features, or are you just trying to make it drivable for basic transportation?