2012 Lincoln Navigator - 6r80 - 235k miles - possible trans slip

[nickb2]

oh, and the other thing I most thinking of, no way you get this to 500k MILES.

Even if on a second front chain set, but I must say, I admire your gusto, your know how, and how to present it in proper english format.

I have a real hard time with that, but since I have been here, my english written skills seems to have gotten better. Unless when I post drunk, which I am about to do in 1 hr.

So, often, these small tranny problems dont show up cuzz the front of engine was so loose, phazers shot, timing all over the place, codes galore, I been through that is why I love toyota. etc etc.

Maybe now, you are just noting something you did not see before, cuz the engine was f uped with timing issues and coil issues and etc. Now engine back to normal, now you are noticing wear, which is normal over time.

So take some time to live with it. it has a algorithm just for you. It will adapt to you, if you let it.

 

[chackett]

Wow. Thanks for all the interesting and helpful messages, I really appreciate that. I try hard to be polite and friendly when smart (or even not smart)people are trying to help me for no other real reason than they're just decent people. And I'm not likely to take anything you say as condescending Besides, the whole reason I'm here is because there are people who know more about this than I do ... so I can handle it if you tell me what to do, or that I'm making (or have made) a mistake.

I am using ForScan v.2.3.37 beta for windows and I'm using some old cheap Veepeak vp01 wireless adapter. I initially gave up on forcscan because I couldn't get TCU data from it. I probably assumed it was forscan that was the problem, but I understand now it could be my adapter. I was planning to purchase this adapter and give it another go.

Adaptive tables - I have not reset them, and I appreciate the advice not to. I figure my best bet is to actually continue diagnosing the problem until I have some actual clues to act on, rather than just doing stuff for the sake of doing it.

Outdated SW - you and billr mentioned I might need an update. When I was doing the research in prep for doing the moulded leadframe replacement on the valve body, I also came to this as a potential issue. Seems I've read there are probably, at a minimum, one or two parameter updates that probably need to be applied. You asked if I like alldata or mitchell. When I looked into this before, I bumped into Alldata, but didn't have the scanner and evidently not the tenacity to keep digging because once I figured out how much alldata cost, I gave up

And finally, you mentioned graphing the misfire data under load. I believe I've done this, but have recently decided I need to do it again because I'm not sure I was graphing the right data. I'm still not sure I selected the right PID's to graph. There were about 5 different misfire PID's associated with each cylinder, and whatever tool I was using (maybe Car Scanner Pro for android) it truncated the descriptions of them so I'm not positive I was looking at the right data. It's on my list to research this further and make sure I know what I'm selecting and what I'm looking at.

Thanks again everyone, I sincerely appreciate it. I'm committed to sticking with this until I figure out what the heck is going on, and I appreciate your help.

PS- Nick, I missed your last post somehow. I'm sure you know more about these things than I do, so you're probably right about not getting to 500k miles, but I'm sure going to try. I've got an old 2002 F150 with the 4.2l v6 in it. I drove that thing until about 4 years ago and then gave it to my son to drive. It's got 278k miles on it and running strong. I've only had to do the rear main seal, the alternator once or twice, timing chain, camshaft position sensor, and maybe one or two other small things. Still runs great, doesn't throw any codes. It's a good problem to have when I'm frustrated that the body needs more attention (ball joints, tie rods, etc) than the engine does.

Oh, and your English is excellent. Honestly if you didn't tell me that english was not your first language, I'm not sure I would have thought otherwise. With the exception of a random awkward phrasing, which everyone does from time to time, I think your English is very good. Good enough that you probably don't need to apologize for it

 

[nickb2]

yeah, it is cheap, and I dont mind. https://www.veepeak.com/product/obdcheck-vp01/

But you may want to look into this. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6142

If your dongle does not have a MS/HS switch, that may be what is limiting you.

 

[nickb2]

in case you dont know what a HS/MS switch is, here is what you need.

Loading…

www.amazon.ca

 

[nickb2]

you can also make your own, but that is probably covered in an older thread I probably abused someday.

But if you really want to invest in something good, try this.

Downloads

drewtech.com

 

[nickb2]

but I'm sure going to try

Thats the spirit.

 

[nickb2]

chris, I just wanted to say, you are a refreshing new face here.

We needed someone like you to bring some positive here.

And the only reason my english is remotely good? f ing auto correct.

There are also some IDS dongle you can get on ali blabla. They are emulators. If you want, go look at those.

When Billr said I may chime in, well, now its done, and I am going to chew your head off in a virtual way if you dont see the benifits of putting a few hundred down on a tool.

US $30.0 |VCM2 2 in 1 for Ford and for Mazda IDS V118 Diagnostic Tool VCM II|Code Readers & Scan Tools| - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[nickb2]

so just so you know, I am not just a link guru.

I just show what works for me and try to cheaper do it yourselfer options.

I just gave a fat wet christmas kiss to my girl friend, she just rolled over. Haha. Well, looks like I am making breakfast today.

There is a real cool clone I used before, but my buddy up north liked it so much, he said f u, I am keeping it.

 

[nickb2]

when I was working in the tundra, we had to fix a lot of fords. For some reason, the inuit ppl like ford.

So finding something up there that had REAL bi directional, AND J2534 protocal was essential.

And today is christmas. My gift to you, is to just stay around once in a while. Cuz I see real quick who is not just smart, but those who actually give a shyte.

Time always tells here.

the one my buddy up there stole , if I dare say, was this one.

Loading…

www.amazon.ca

 

[nickb2]

I must say, the nano one, glitchy

if that is a proper spelt word. I am going to stop now, cuz now you are in my head space, and I can go on forever about this stuff, and ppl just fall asleep, and forget all I said. It is called overdoing something, which I am way to guilty of.

 

[nickb2]

so in this regards, merry christmas to you, your loved ones, and plz dont forget, staying safe is being responsible.

If you love your elders, stay dirty. Cuz you respect their efforts. I am just 45 now, so I am in a good I dont care zone, but not enough to NOT try.

On this note, have a great holiday. Bye.

 

[chackett]

Hi all-

So it's been a minute since I posted. I had to travel from Atlanta to Bluffton South Carolina to visit some family for the holidays. While I haven't made any legitimate progress toward solving my issue here, I do believe I've learned a good bit as a result of my trip.

My folks got themselves a new golf cart for Christmas and wanted to give me their old one, which meant I needed to bring a trailer down with me so I could bring the cart back. I have a friend with a nice flatbed trailer, perfect for bringing the cart back.

As I was leaving Atlanta, pulling the empty trailer, I had a spot where I really wanted to accelerate HARD up a hill, pulling the trailer, Navigator loaded with 4 adults, luggage, etc. The vehicle downshifted two, maybe three gears and then immediately shuttered, lost power, and my mil light was flashing. It was severe enough that I was preparing to pull over to the side of the interstate to assess the situation. However the shuddering went away, the Check Engine light stopped flashing (and remained off entirely).

I gave my phone to my son so he could connect to the cheapo OBD2 reader that's pretty much always plugged in and he pulled a P0307. And the app "CarScanner" reported "Misfire condition on cylinder 7." There was another code in there related to an O2 sensor, but for the life of me, I can't find that code anywhere now. I checked archived / inactive codes, but I can't find it.

So this afternoon I took my laptop and Forscan out for a test drive. While I definitely don't know how to use Forscan correctly, I was at least able to select any sensors that look related to "misfire" and watch the oscilliscope. Sure enough I can correlate the bump to an increase in "misfire count" which as best I can tell is the # of misfires detected on current drive cycle. I was having a little difficulty recreating the condition, so I accelerated hard a few times, and sure enough, the misfire count went up several times. I think for a short 5 minute drive the total misfire events was around 20. I'd like to figure out how to tell which cylinder the misfires are coming from. I'll keep poking around.

Anyway, I thought I'd come back and admit my mistake. I was just so sure this wasn't a misfire situation. I have had bad coils on multiple vehicles before and it was always more of a "shudder" than a "bump." This started as a single, distinct, bump.

I'd like to continue learning and investigating this, please let me know if I should start a new thread in a more appropriate section for tracking down the data and learning more about where / when the misfire is occurring. I have the Forscan live data (as both a forscan replay file and as a CSV) if anyone is interested

Thanks to you all for your help, I really appreciate it!

Chris

 

[billr]

Yes, I think starting a new thread would be a good idea; would keep us focused on the latest symptoms and efforts.

To try duplicating conditions, and even aggravate them, apply the brake with your left foot as you give the engine full throttle. You can apply maximum load (or any load desired) to the engine that way. Doing that for a few seconds will not hurt the brakes at all, but give them a minute or so to cool down between tries.

 

[bp042665]

Code P0307 is Cylinder 7