torque limit is 8.8/9 ft pnd, after two cycles. I usually don't even bother torquing that. My knuckles don't even crack at that pressure.
Honestly, I do 5 of three per month easy, and my 18v dewalt limits just fine. In and out.
I am so happy I was able to see that on pics. If you would not have taken the time, to go out and just poke with the camera, We/ you would still be chasing non existent trans leak.
Hint, you will want to know, once you remove the oil cooler, no way around it, coolant will seep down into crank case. So advice, drain old oil and reserve for later. Remove part, coolant will seep down. Then once the upper engine is all buttoned up, pour back in old oil, it will kind of help coolant down more, then just dump oil again, and then proceed with new oil. Takes ten minutes more to do, but hey, if it helps get the coolant out, why not take the extra step.
Oh, another hint, plz do take time to shop air out all the derbris before removing the cooler from its fixture. You will be amazed at what kind of stuff sit down there. I even pull dead mice from there, and I know a few mice droping won't kill the engine, some of the dirt/sand will if that get down in the crank case.
Personally, I think 10ft pnds is not enough, so I elbow and wrist torque it my self. I also apply a thin amount of the right stuff to mounting surface of housing. That sucker won't leak for the next forseable future.
Anyway, thought maybe this pdf would help, it does give specs in inch, but serious, I converted, 6 ft pd then 8.8 on second spread is just not enough in my most humble opinion. Like I said, I just drive home all of the bolts home with a 18v dewalt impact drill and dont even think of whipping out a torque wrench on these plastic jobs. The right stuff does the rest.
https://www.homehardware.ca/en/147ml-black-the-right-stuff-gasket-maker-sealant/p/8659250
