2017 Chevy Volt rear calipers

NickD

wrench
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Aug 28, 2007
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On any vehicle I have worked on in particular with disk brakes they come from the factory bone dry, just helped my son redo his brakes on his 2014 Chrysler T&C with the trailer package and heavy duty brake package. Four of my kids are driving these beast because they had, more than two kids, and no way can you fit three baby car seats in a compact or standard sedan.

By bone dry, no anti-seize on raw iron parts, like the wheel, rotor, pad bracket, clips, pads, could kick the wheel, recall on my sisters 80 T-Bird, I couldn't remove the rear wheel at all, brand new, take it back to the dealer. He couldn't remove it either, had to replace the entire rear end.

Couldn't get my large 3 arm puller on his rear rotor, stuck two bolts in that bracket that holds the pad bracket with large nuts on the inside, by tightening the bolts from the back while holding the nuts at the front, the rotor finally popped off. All that area was cleaned with a powered wire brush and coated with anti-seize, I always done this on brand new vehicles, so don't have this problem.

Only tool I could use to remove the pads was a large hammer,they were firmly rusted in place, soak each of the four brackets in a solution of hydrocloric acid and water, that eats most of the rust away, but where the clips fit in, had to clean that up with a file. Road salt gets trapped under the clips, expands with rust and binds the pads. Can't seem to find plated steel backing on the pads anymore because our criminal EPA banned electroplating in the country, paint chips off leaving bare steel that is also attacked by road salt. Only thing I could find that retards that is anti-seize, but I could drive down to Mexico and have these plated down there, China only does a half a micron thick if even that thick.

Caliper pins were dry, several had to be pulled out, just cleaned those off incluing the holes in the pad brackets, new boots and plenty of silicone grease. When my son left to go to his home with my grand kids, said he averaged 27 mpg instead of 22, by having brakes that weren't dragging any more.

For turning in the pistons on the rear calipers, my large pair of long nose pliers worked, looked at the pistons on your Volt, GM does this BS constantly, changing the shape so you need a new tool each time. Finally got fed up with GM. For AC compressor pulleys, only company that presses them on, so had to buy three different overpriced pulley pullers to work on these things. And feel I own part of this company with my tax dollars.

Then GM forced all of our local dealers to modernized their dealerships that skyrocketed their property taxes causing them to skyrocket their prices.
 

NickD

wrench
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Oh, I see nothing wrong with removing jammed pads with a hammer, but my kids that paid a fortune to a dealer also used a hammer to installed new pads. And they wonder why a brake job may only last about 5,000 miles at the most. and why their vehicle burns a lot of fuel and seems to lack HP.
 

NickD

wrench
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Aug 28, 2007
Messages
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Came back this morning to bleed his brakes, should be done at most every three years, more like six, was pretty black.

Hate law required ABS, really more crap from China, we really have some dopes running this country. Has a slot car ABS pump motor in it and if ran for much over 30 seconds will burn up. On any vehicle I have driven, share your experience, on ice, only pulses about once per second, and really worthless for keep that wheel rolling where some ding bat says a rolling wheel stops quicker than a stalled wheel.

On way to fire up that ABS motor for good bleeding is with a overpriced scanner, so the best we can do is vacuum bleed and make darn sure, this is my job to keep the reservoir full if air gets into that mickey mouse pump, only way to get it out without a scanner, is to vacuum all four wheels, take it for a spin, starting and stopping the vehicle about six times switching off the engine each time. Each time you start the engine, that retarded pump will run for about a second. Vacuum bleed again and after a day of this BS repeating this about six times, will almost get most of the air out of the system.

POS also has traction control where the ABS keeps the wheel rolling, traction control does just the opposite, pulses a spinning wheel about one pulse per second supposing giving more traction by slowing down spinning, for one thing, never in a thousand years will it replace a limited slip differential, but really some some smoke cracking engineers and politicians coming up with this BS.

First vehicle with ABS was a 78 Caddy, was RWD with a limited slip differential, and the ABS would pulse 10 time per second, but had the philosophy if you slammed on the brake pedal hard enough on ice to activate it, were driving too fast.

This new crap at one pulse per second, if that wheel hits a dry spot, sounds like your front end is falling apart, and if you look, it is falling apart.
 

mhamilton85

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Aug 27, 2019
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My sister is going down tubes, I am to emotional to deal with that and if I pissed you off for some reason, beleive me, it was not intentional, and I have no patience to filter my comments, I dont need a AR15 to make a point.

Nick, no need to apologize. Appreciate all the advice you've given. I will definitely try my scan tool first if that does what I need, perfect. I'll report back when I get around to the brakes. Right now they're still serviceable, but have some deep grooves from the previous owner (not sure if a pebble got stuck or what happened to them). May not even get to the brakes until next month. Right now dealing with 3 other minor catastrophes at home that have diverted my attention.
 
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