4l60e help

hellrazor3114

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I have a 94 gmc sierra 4x4 with the 5. 7l and the 4l60e trans
I was told by a dealer that scanned my trans that the Electrical components are all good and the forward sprag may be broken. Becase it doesnt go itto gear in the OD or D positions it does however start out in manual 1st and 2nd the I can shift it into OD or D and it shifts fine including the lockup. This all happeded after my tcase gernaded and I replaced it with a new used one. I even replaced the speed sensor at rear of the tcase but nothing. The fluid is clean and red The trans was rebuilt 10 months ago and I couldnt find the guy (number disconected and not at home ouch) I cannot aford to have it rebuilt but am willing to try it my self. I have purchased the ATSG manuals, and also found these kits

www. transmissionpartsusa. com/4L60E_transmission_forward_drum_p/350-00035800e. htm
is this what I need to replace the sprag

www. transmissionpartsusa. com/4L60E_transmission_rebuilding_kit_p/350-000035003. htm
is this a good kit

if these are not good please recomend some for me or piont me in the right direction
 

crunch

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If it is bad inside it will take a lot more than a kit to fix it.
You did not give mileage but a lot of times it can take 750 to 1250 $ hard parts to rebuild one right.
You may even be luckie to save the case.
Case
 

crunch

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Beware of cheap rebuild kits.
Also you will need 300 -500$ special seal installation and other tools.
 

Transman

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Agreed on cheap rebuild kits. Good ones, Special tools, & Torque converters too from Part-Rite (800)225-0020 ask for Bill (he is very helpful and will guide you on parts you may have forgotton that are common replacement). "Hard Parts" from Carlyn Trans (800)225-1774. Transtar, I don't like foreign owned companies, but their parts are good. There is a website that I can post that almost has a step by step for this trans. The special tools needed are: teflon ring sizer for pump & input shaft (can be done other ways but not as effeciently), pump puller, rear piston spring compressor, Regular piston spring compressor, snap ring pliers, feeler gauge, assorted screwdrivers & picks and of course a "BFH" (Big **** Hammer). A very clean area to work in, a way to clean parts, compressed air a big plus here. If you make friends with your local machine shop, they can press your new bushings in and out as well as compress the drum piston springs so you can take them apart. You will also have to weigh your own abilities to get the job done plus allow for mistakes that may require trans removal again (we professionals have to allow this also). If you are ok with this then we can certainly help keep you on the right track to get the job done correctly but don't take it lightly, you need to be able to pay real attention to small details. Transman
 

hellrazor3114

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I have done a few engine rebuilds and they have turned out good. So I feel I will be able to do this with the right resources. I already have a clean area, parts washer, snapring plires, several screwdrivers, and a BFH all I will need is the ring resizer and spring compressor. So please post the site and I will keep ya all updated.
 

jay

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hellrazor3114 said:
I have done a few engine rebuilds and they have turned out good. So I feel I will be able to do this with the right resources. I already have a clean area, parts washer, snapring plires, several screwdrivers, and a BFH all I will need is the ring resizer and spring compressor. So please post the site and I will keep ya all updated.
Checkout this DVD on rebuilding the 4L60E at http://boxwrench.3dcartstores.com/GM-4L60E-Transmission-Rebuild-DVD_p_32.html.
I bought it a few months ago to add to my tech library for the future rebuild in my Chevy truck. It is geared towards the diyer.

jay
 

gto8u

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I would do a bit more from the books before tearing into it. I am no expert but have done a few 700's and 60's. Seems to me that a broken spag would not be partial to automatic or manual shift position. Again I am not sure which bands are applied in manual low vs. auto. check your books on that.
As for your missing tools, Some kits use a split teflon ring negating the need for resizing. Sure they are not the best but I've not had any problems. As for the clutch compressor, I used all kinds of inventions before I owned one of my own. I used a craftsman drill press adapter for years ( the thing you clamp your old electric drill in to make a small drill press).
Once saw a guy use a floor jack with the clutch pack positioned under the leaf spring spring of his truck.
Just the same, if its something broken and not worn out. . . like in a 10 month old trans that went through a t-case explosion, I'd skip the whole rebuild and fix whats broke. . . . blasphemy to the trans guys out there but do what you must.
Good luck
 

jasonn20

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If you put the trans in second does it shift 1-2 ok ? if so is it a late shift?
In D or O\D it neutrals ? Sure it is'nt starting in the wrong gear?
The forward sprag is essential to forward movement except 4th.
Seems strange you can get all forward gears by manually shifting.
You might want to get a shop that will hook up a trans controller. It will eliminate the PCM.
 

Transman

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Jason, the forward sprag IS on in all forward ranges except 4th, if you move to man 1, you apply the low sprag & clutches making the forward sprag ineffective and it is very common for a failure. Trust me, it's busted. Transman
P.S. the site I referred to is no longer there, I have posted to the owner to see if it just moved or dissolved.
 

gto8u

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Transmann, I respect your knowledge but I am confused. How will a broken forward sprag allow ALL forward gears to work when shifted manually and have no forward gear when starting out in auto D or OD range? When starting from a stop in auto D, wouldn't the low clutch and sprag be applied as well?
 

Cheef

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Hey Hellrazor...I am not saying a 4L60e is a piece of cake...I have rebuilt but one and that was due to it was a good friend's need. Worked just dandy and still is chugging 18 months later. I found it pleasant and straightforward. I do have "trans" experience from numerous Chrysler units and some Ford....if you can "embrace" (my PC term for the day) the theory on how the unit works, you can improvise tools to get job done *once*. May not be efficient, in fact probably not at all, but for a one shot deal, it gets you by. Videos may be of help, but having PRINT to actually look at at the bench is going to be helpful beyond words.

Get yourself a long tailshaft housing section for a drum holder and a bunch of paint pens in different colors to marl location and orientation. Possibly hit Evil-Bay and get a factory manual for your vehicle or similar one with 4L60e....it has an excruciatingly detailed ROR chapter in it. Get a TRANSGO hardened separator plate. Only other advice is that you have the unit out, do it once and do it right.

Cheef
 

stu

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gto8u said:
Transmann, I respect your knowledge but I am confused. How will a broken forward sprag allow ALL forward gears to work when shifted manually and have no forward gear when starting out in auto D or OD range? When starting from a stop in auto D, wouldn't the low clutch and sprag be applied as well?
No. This is common on any transmission that has over running clutches.
When the shift lever is placed in a lower gear a band or multiple disc clutch is applied to give added holding power.
It also provides engine braking vs freewheeling when the accelerator is released.
 

Transman

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gto8u said:
Transmann, I respect your knowledge but I am confused. How will a broken forward sprag allow ALL forward gears to work when shifted manually and have no forward gear when starting out in auto D or OD range? When starting from a stop in auto D, wouldn't the low clutch and sprag be applied as well?
Ahh, very good question. The GM over-engineering syndrome is at work here. This trans has two first gears, Dodge does it too. Man 1 takes off on the low/reverse clutches as well, which locks up the sprag (making it ineffective). this is why it moves in man 1. When it gets to 2ND gear, the sprag is overrunning and not needed anymore so everything else works fine until you come to a stop again. Dodge uses the low band instead of the low sprag in man 1, this is why it's best to rock from reverse to man 1 when stuck so you don't blow the low sprag and the case out. Transman
 
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