96 grand voyager will not start

dasuchbe

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I have a 1996 Ply. Grand Voyager. 3.3 v-6 215000 miles. Timiing belt has been replaced recently.

WIfe was driving car and we stopped at a friends house to wait for them. Turned car off and waited. When we tried to start it again, nothing. The car will turn over but no fire. Replaced cam sensor. Nothing. Mechanic towed it and relaced crank sensor. It started but ran rough. After trying to tune it it failed to start after the forth time.

I hooked up a code reader

340
401
403
731
736
1782

I did the code reader prior to going to mechaninc. He does not use them

We have replaced the Cam and Crank sensor and the coil pack. He says that the only thing left is the PCM but at $360 dollars I am hesitating.

Prior to this the van ran ok. It seemed a little off to me ((as in needing a tune up, plugs wires, filters....))
But the van ran fine. Accelerated when needed and idles a little rough but again no missing. The only other questionable thing was that a week or two earlyer, we had a heat wave. My wife waited for me to get off of work with the AC on full then when we sat at a train crossing she noticed the temp had went up. It reached about 3/4 of the way so we parked I popped the hood and let it cool off. But there seemed to be no side effects.

I am at a lose as to where I go next. Do I change the computer or look at something else?
 

kev2

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One of my colleagues here is -CHEEF our go to mini van guru,
you have cam ssensor codes, egr codes and transmission codes....
Lets clear up some things ..
.the check engine light was NOT on before the failure to start??
The codes are P0340, p0401 etc?
No remote starter, aftermarket add ons recient maintance etc?


I am very concerned that on a 1996 your "mechanic" does NOT use them?? meaning diagnostic codes...?? that is a red flag.
 

olds455

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Clear the codes and see which one(s) come back. I have see this complaint as a result of the connectors on top of the trans that lead to the engine. I think there were three harness connectors, unplug them all and make sure the terminals are in good shape.
 

CraigE

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3.3 liters do not have timing belts. Lets verify if this is a 3.3 or not. CRAIG
 

Cheef

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Give us a correct engine type. The 3.0 is the only V6 that uses a timing belt. The 3.3 does not. They are apples and oranges in diagnostics as the 3.3 is a DIS system and the 3.0 uses a cap and rotor.

The 0340 says there is a problem with the camshaft sensor circuit...not necessarily the sensor itself. Check connectors for corrosion, dirt and use ohmmeter to determine circuit continuities.

0401/02 check the EGR for bad vacuum lines or plugged orifice in EGR body before replacing EGR assembly.

The trans codes are just that...slip detected in reverse and 1st gear...common denominator is the low and reverse clutch is fried or has a leak in the circuit...could be related to the P1782 codes also.

Tuned with what also....what parts are you using and why? splitfires or any Bosch product will produce disasterous results on any MoPar product.

Give me some very specific parts replacements and I will do the best I can to diagnose this.

PS: MAke sure your battery terminals are spotless and you have 12 volts at battery....no dead cells.

Cheef
 

dasuchbe

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okay, let me see if I can answer everything.

yes it is a 3.3. We had the timing cover and oil pan off to replace a leaking gasket. I may be confused though, I think it was the serp. belt we changed.

I tried to check the codes again and nothing came up. The memory seems to have been cleared. I tried to start it and see if codes would pop, but nothing came up.

NO. THe Check engine light was not on, and to be honest I did not think to look when I was at the van yesterday. The only light I remember seeing on when this all happened was the oil light.

The mechanic is a friend that has been fair to me financially and always done a reputable job. I don't agree with some of his methods but it gets the job done.

There are not aftermarket addons that I am aware of. We have owned the van for about 8 months. It has a lot of miles, (220000+) but has been reliable.

We have kept the oil changed in it regularly and were about to get the Trans flushed and changed. I was also about to have it tuned up because of the mild roughness. The previous owner kept all regular maintenance(have records.)

Somebody else was telling me about the trans connectors and there problem with them, are they hard to get too??

The parts we have purchased so far are from O'Rielly. The Cam Sensor I bought and put on. The connector appeared to be fine. The Crank sensor and the Coil pack the mechanic bought from Orielly also. ((I live in a small town in Kansas so parts stores are at a premium. I am not a big fan of Orielly.) I believe they are Brog warner parts though

I cannot attest to the adjustments that the mechanic made. As far as I know the plugs are standard, last applied by a chrysler dealer.

I know that the battery and connectors are in good shape
 

Cheef

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Try this

Key in ignition.

Take left forefinger and thumb depress and HOLD the "reset" and "trip" buttons on cluster.

Right hand turns key to "on" position but do not crank it. Continue to hold the trip and reset buttons down until the odometer spells "CodE" then release the buttons.

The odometer should say "999"...if not write down the code(s) that come up in that display and post back.

Allow the system to go through its check1,2,3 protocols and recalibrate sequence then post back results. This will test bus communications.

Cheef
 

dasuchbe

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Ran the test as stated.

Code 999
chec 1
chec 2
chec 3

code 999


Is there a way to get the trouble codes to spit out again, when I tried I got no reading?
 

dasuchbe

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OKAY Now I am confused.

I have tried every parts house for 50 miles and I get different respones

Oriellys is the most expensive but claim that the computer is ready to plug in.

Everyone else refuses to quote me prices without the codes of my computer.
Some say it will be ready others say it will have to be "flashed" by Chrysler

AND one has said that no matter what I have to have it flashed. He claims when its un plugged the memory is erased. So, what happens when my battery goes dead?


Who is right?

I am getting a real bad headache over this mess.
 

dasuchbe

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I forgot to mention, what about a used one with a garrentee of it being a good computer, whats my safest route?
 

dasuchbe

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Spent the money for the computer from Orielly.
Got it installed
Drove it home.
Now it will not start. You can hear it trying to fire, even backfiring a bit.

Hooked the codereader up
403

I questioned that before but my ex mechanic acted like I did not know what I was doing

I am now at an impass. My Haynes manually tells me how to test the system but it needs to run. Do I just change the solenoid? Or the valve or the whole thing???

I am tired of just parts swapping
 
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