Has the 3.0 auto with around 188k on the odometer. This thing has me banging my head against the wall. First I had the o2 sensor codes, well being the slacker I am I waited and finally got around to it yesterday. Swapped them out at the same time swapped the egr valve, the egr control solenoid, egr valve assembly, the IAC and finally the tps. The IAC plunger was seized as was the egr valve. The other parts were not in spec when I tested them. Now to the issue, after replacing the O2 sensors the engine started running rough at idle, you can smell fuel fairly strong and it's just sucking gas down, this prompted me to check the other sensors. I found a vacuum leak today and replaced all the hard plastic vacuum lines only to have the same problem. At idle the idle speed is roughly 900 rpm's, sounds like its skipping, when you first take off if you hit the brakes you have to stand on them. When you hit a stop the car surges and jerks, take off again and it runs great. In fact it's never run better in the top end. Also since all this the transmission doesn't kick down properly, this may be totally unrelated all it does have a little slip between 2 and 3. So I swung into the parts house and had them scan the codes, I didn't get the actual codes but there were two; lean on bank one lean on bank two. I know that a bad or dirty maf sensor, and or possibly one or both engine temperature sensors could cause this. So I have a couple questions, is there anyway to check these? Bench test so to speak. Also, why would the engine go to running like this after the O2 sensors were replaced? It ran much better prior to replacing them. I am completely confused at this point. I have no issues replacing the parts but I need to know how to check them first and oddly enough I can seem to find a bench test for the 3.0. Any advice or thoughts on this would be great as I need to get this thing right, we handed this car down to my daughter and I certainly don't need her breaking down.