97 olds eighty eight

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#1
i have a 1997 olds 88 that im having troubles with it dieing . it runs smooth but you could be sitting in a parking lot idling for 20minutes or so and it just ups and dies. . and it will even die when your driving down the road . . once it dies it starts right back up . . the check engine light is on and i had the codes read and it says its the EGR . . . i was wanting to know if the EGR could cause this problem. . i have been driving the car with the check engine light on for a long time now i just didnt worrie about because the car ran fine and had no problems. . but the car dieing is something that has just came up . . sugestions please . . .
 

billr

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#2
Well, for starters, get the codes read again... and this time don't ignore the pending problems. Also, post what engine it is (I'm assuming there were more than one type available).
 
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#3
the engine is a 3800 , i went today got the codes read again and it only came up with the one code . normaly i wouldnt have ignored the problem but since im recently divorced and dont have money falling out my back side i thought id try to get some answers on what the problem maybe, because spending $139. 99 on a EGR would break me right now . thats why im looking for help to break down this problem . .
 

billr

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#4
OK, sorry if I was sounding snotty. I was suggesting (prodding?) you to not ignore codes because problems usually get more expensive, not less. What is the "EGR" code presently set? (Pxxxx?)
 
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#5
sorry i didnt get the guy to write down the code for me. . thats my fault :( i do remember reading the computer and it basicly said faulty EGR . . i have a manual on the car and i did some reading and decided to pull the car in my garage and start in on it . . ive already got the EGR off and theres alot of black exhaust build up enough that you could chip it off . . is there any way to test the EGR to see if its bad ?
 

billr

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#6
Does the EGR valve have hoses going to it, or wires? How many pins if it is wires?
 
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#7
well it is all electric no hoses . . . it has 5 prongs, its just one plug that goes on it . .
 

billr

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#8
Do you have an electrical multi-meter for readings volts and ohms? There are some checks that can be done on that EGR, but the most thorough would be with a high-end scan-tool; which I doubt you have at your disposal. I suggest you clean the cruddy valve parts, as well as the ports in the manifold, and put it back on. Then go back and have the code read, write it down[/i], and have it cleared. If you are lucky the cleaning will take care of the problem and the code won't come back.
 

Gus

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#9
I agree about the code.....need to the know the number....if I were to guess since the car runs ok, there's nothing wrong with the EGR operation.....what may be the problem is the pintle position sensor inside the EGR......the pintle is probably opening/closing as it is commanded to do so......but that sensor could be bad and telling the PCM that it is not in the proper position when it is....however since the sensor is built into the EGR, the whole thing has to be replaced.....

Now the bad news.....that EGR may not have anything to do with the car dying....could be a bad harness connection, fuel problem, fuel regulator problem(pull vac line and check for fuel in the line), crank sensor problem, ICM problem, PCM problem, etc.
 
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#10
ok everyone lol . . . well the car is dead now went to drive the car in town to have the codes read one more time and then have them removed. . . well i didnt make it to town . . car ran perfect in till about half way to town , car died and would not start up at all !! ended up putting it on a trailor and hauling it to autozone to have the codes read any way . . there ended up being 5 codes :(
po401 ,system fault EGR. p1406 , EGR pintle position was 10% of the expected position po306 , cylinder 6 misfire
po107 , vaf (vane air flow) sensor dirty or defective p1870 , transmission component slipping . . . . .
maybe that will help ya all . . . while i was waiting on the trailor i did check to see if there was fuel pressure and there seemed to be PLENTY
from the fuel rails . . then a buddie and i checked to see if it was getting spark from the coil packs by pulling off the spark plug wire at one of the coils and it was only a a weak yellow spark . . not the nice blue snaping sound you usually here when it arks . . . so that im ready for more ideas guy . . :(
 

mony0_8

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#11
Try disconnecting the mass flow sensor and see if it starts. Its the big flat black sensor on the throttle body.
 

billr

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#12
I curious: my understanding is that P0107 is a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) code, how did you determine it is for "VAF" (vane air flow)?
 
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#13
well new update . . . the fuel pump went out thats why the car is die . . . after i got the car home and decided to look at it again later on that night . . i dicovered that the fuel pump wasnt kicking on at all, so i took the breather off and sprayed some starting fliud in the throttle body sure enough the car started and ran for about 3-4 sec. . im not for sure but i think the codes were set from me doing all the cleaning . . . so basiclly im hopeing it was just the fuel pump going out this whole time . . sorry in my last post i said it had plenty of fuel pressure . . i wasnt thinking at the time that the system would still be under pressure even if the fuel pump wasnt working . . i checked the line once and it shot out with plenty of pressure , i was pissed at the time also so i assumed the fuel pump was working . . so basiclly im back to square one , the car has a full tank of gas in it and im not looking forward to draining it and dropping the tank. . . is there a easy way to check the fuel pump relay . . maybe it could be that ??? because the car was just up and dieing and then would restart ? but now it wont ? idea's . . . . .
thanks for helping
 

Gus

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#14
Attach a test light to the battery...notice the brightness....Disconnect the harness to the fuel tank....attach a test light to the fuel pump circuit.....turn key on....should light for two seconds and go out....crank it, and it should be on as long as you crank it.....if it does, and is as bright as across the battery, and you had no fuel pressure, it's the pump...

If it is not bright, there is a voltage drop in the circuit somewhere, and should be repaired first....could be a bad connection, ground, relay, etc.,........this is why you should use a test light, instead of a voltmeter, whenever testing a circuit that draws high current....a voltmeter will show only potential voltage, not working voltage, because current is not flowing through the circuit, and thus not creating a voltage drop.....
 
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#15
If using lamp brightness as a gauge, using a headlamp as a test light might be a good choice for the fuel pump circuit.