98 Dodge Ram 1500 van fuel pump wiring

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#1
I have a 98 ram 1500 full size van. It died and my wife was having surgery and I let someone else, mechanic, fix it. I usually figure stuff out myself and do the work, just for fun, just didn't have the time.

It turns out it was the fuel pump. They changed that, I picked up the van on a Wed. and drove it home, it sat until Friday, I went out and it wouldn't start again. Now, it turns out the wire burned up when the pump went, they just ran out of the fuse box from a source of key on only power and ran directly to the pump, bypassing the relays in the power distribution center. The service manual says there are two relays, the ASD, automatic shutdown, and the fuel pump relay. I would assume that bypassing these relays would be a bad thing and I need to remedy it, but would it cause the thing not to work after being run about 8 miles. What happened? If not then what should I check, there is no serviceable fuel filter in these things, it is built into the pump as part of the regulator assembly, which should have come as part of the new pump.

thanks mark
 

kev2

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#2
basically the short cut likely bit you in the ass..

WHy was it done? that way may lead to the problem.. wire burnt sounds like starting point for repair.

Suggest you start by return ALL wirlng to origional... Where was the wire damaged? which color wire?

remote start? yes no?
is the service engine light on?
does the lamp complete the self test with every start?

It is then the old which is lacking fuel or ignition...
but we need to be back to OEM to discuss it
 
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#3
As to why it was done, I don't have a clue, that's why I usually do the work myself. It is hard to get anyone to do the right thing. My wife had just had surgery and was diagnosed with cancer on January 16 so I was tied up and couldn't do it. I was having the worse couple of weeks in my life, I really didn't need this issue with my work van.

It was and is still a fuel system problem. The pump was bad, but the repairs where substandard, I think they just made more work for me. The wire they ran is strung under the van and dangles almost to the ground. I take it I need to drop the gas tank, run a new wire in place of the burned up one and test those relays.

Would it be possible to cut a hole in the bed of the van and get to it that way or would the frame rails be in the way? I know some Fords have an access hole. Would that just be another cheap short cut to cause more issues?

thanks for replying

thanks mark
 

kev2

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#4
Sorry I did not communicate this first.....we all pray for your wife, a speedy recovery.

lets walk thru this slowly....it is a fuel system- and we already have two no no's melted wiring, and a "patch" repair....

Answer the questions
remote start? yes no?
is the service engine light on?
does the lamp complete the self test with every start?

Where is the damaged wire? 4" damaged 24" damaged? what colur wire damaged?
 
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#5
Ok what I know, It wouldn't start. I just dumped it at a mechanic, he did a number on it. I talked to him, he said they dropped the tank and changed the fuel pump assembly. He said they changed the wire because it burned up. When I checked his work, I found he had hooked a new wire into the fuse panel, plugged it into a power source that is on with key only, he ran it through the firewall next to the steering column and dangled it back to the tank. He bipassed the fuel relay and ASD relay. He drove it about 8 miles and I went to his shop and drove it home, about 4 miles, the check engine light was on, I will hook up my OBD2 reader and get you the code. I got home and parked it a couple of days and now no start.

What I knew deep down before but needed beat into my thick skull from a couple of helpful people such as yourself in a couple of forums:

1: I have to empty out the gas and drop the tank again.
2: I have to run a proper new wire where it belongs in place of the original to the power distribution box and hook it up correctly to the relays.
3: Then once it is back as close to OEM as I can get it I can start testing relays and such.
4: Work on my own vehicle if I want it done right.

Now do I have to put the tank back up or is there an easier way to check to see if they burned up the new fuel pump while it is down.
I just hope it didn't burn up the pcm or some other expensive component.

Would the ASD relay cause a no start issue even though the pump is wired directly or would the PCM know the pump was wired by an idiot and shut the thing down? Just wondering where to start once I complete the task of the redo. I know check the code first. I wonder if there is a code for an idiot broke me.

Thanks for the replies means a lot right now.
God bless you!
mark
 

kev2

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#6
how it is designed to work...

When you turn key to start/run...the PCM will energize the relay...IF the vehicle does NOT start in@5sec the PCM will shut down the fuel pump relay...
SO testing the circuit has to be done within 5seconds.....

The code will be needed to see what is wrong..
the fuel pump may have shut down for a reason...

My suggestions are to locate the damaged fuel pump wire and tell us about it- color, location, how much damaged...etc..
Is the relay removed?? is the wire from relay to pump grounded? open? use a dvom...
 
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#7
This is a 98 dodge ram 1500 van 5. 2L auto trans.

I used an actron CP9145 scan tool if that matters:

1/3: P0545 Mod$D1 Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor Circuit Low (bank 1 sensor 1)

2/3: P0753 Mod$D1 Shift Solenoid A circuit Electrical

3/3: P0463 Mod$D1 Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit High Input

I/M rediness all OK or N/A

Not running just key on, won't run.

the weather has really been sucky here in western PA so I have not dropped the gas tank yet to check the wire and get started on putting it back to OEM through the relays. My garage is too junked up to put it in right now from work so I need a few nice days. I did get 20 gallons of gas out of the tank so I am ready.

thanks for the help
mark
 

kev2

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#8
I show the P0545 as -A/C Clutch Relay Circuit- on several referance sheets :BeatsMe

EGT is most likely a turbo diesel code.

fuel pumps seem to fail only when tank is full
 
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#9
I got the tank off the van yesterday, the weather sucked, but it wasn't raining or snowing so I went for it.

They did a real hack job on it. They just stripped the wire for the pump power, the dark green one with the white line, they just wrapped a wire around it and put a big blob of solder on it and wrapped it with a little cheap electrical tape, which was already coming loose. They didn't cut the original wire, they just added the extra wire to it. They also cut into the insulation on the blue wires for the gas gauge. I assume from the wiring diagram the other wire, the solid black one is the ground.

The hose out of the pump was just cut and a hose with clamps to splice it out, they were leaking. The vent off the rollerover valve in the top of the tank that goes to the charcoal filter was broken also.

I went to the Dodge dealer today and ordered new hoses and a tail for the connector. The wire they stripped into was bare too close to the connector to spice onto and cover with a shrink tube so I figured I better get the new connector with wire tails to slice it out. I'm not so sure there was anything originally wrong with the wire or the pump, I will test the relays, they might have been the trouble all along.

It is going to take a week for the parts to come in, then I will get the tank back up and replumbed and rewired.

thanks mark
 
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#10
I'm back, I finally got enough days to work on the van weather wise, some not so nice. I got a new plug and new hoses from the dealer for the fuel line and the vent lines. I tied the new plug and tail into the harness. If I unplug the plug and check voltage on it, black - green with white line + ,according to the dealer service manual, I get 10. 9 volts which is battery voltage right now, cranking. I get the usual second of voltage with key on only before the auto shutdown kills it. Plug it in and the pump does not run, I did put 5 gallons of gas in it. If I hook the pump up to an old battery I had laying around, the pump runs. Any ideas, the + and - are hooked up the same with the van plug and the battery, just for information, would that matter? Any ideas?

thank you mark
 
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#11
Use a headlamp bulb as a test lamp. Use jumper wires to hook it to the power wire (green/white) and to the frame metal (clean off rust for good contact).

If the light burns bright, Then the power circuit is OK. Now disconnect from the frame and fasten that jumper to the black wire of the harness. If the light burns bright, both the power and ground circuits (in the main harness which runs forward towards the front of the vehicle) are OK.

Since you seem to be able to run the pump with a spare battery though the tank harness, I would guess that harness and the pump are OK.

Report back.....Dan, former yinzer