'98 Sebring Trans Not Engaging

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#1
Hi Folks,

I have a '98 Sebring Convertible, 2. 4L, with the 41TE Transmission. I was getting P0700 and P0740 codes and was checking all the connectors and wiring and replaced the trans fluid. In the process of checking things I messed up the speed range sensor.

So, I removed the lever body on the trans and replaced the speed range sensor. I re-installed the underdrive and overdrive accumulators into the case bore holes by placing them on the lever body and then gradually worked the lever body back into place, got the parking sprague into the bracket and bolted everything back up.

I also replaced the input and output sensors while I had everything out of the way.

I reconnected the manual lever and gear cable to the shaft and it is moving to each gear properly with the shifter and I can see the shaft moving to each position.

I installed a new trans filter (though the filter felt a little loose on installation), refilled the trans with ATF +4 until it reached the hot zone on the dipstick when the engine was at normal operating temperature.

When I start up the engine and put it in reverse, drive, 2nd or 1st gear, the trans does not engage. It just starts to roll back like it's in neutral. So, only park and neutral are working. This was not a problem before I started working on the car. So, I'm wondering if I did something wrong in the process of re-installing everything.

Any ideas on why my trans is not engaging at all?

If the filter fell out into the pan, would that cause the trans not to engage?

Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance for any words of wisdom.
 
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#2
Is the lever body properly engaged with the manual valve? I haven't reviewed the details on this trans, but sometimes the manual valve gets pushed too far into the valve body, and the lever body is installed without engaging the manual valve, so the manual valve never moves when you change gearshift lever position.

"If the filter felt out into the pan, would that cause the trans not to engage?" Maybe, especially if you were parked "nose-up", or if the fluid was low.
 

billr

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#3
You know more about the innards of that trans than I do... is the filter part of the pump suction "pick-up" down into the fluid? If there is any chance that filter came off (usually they attach with a screw or two), especially when the trans went from working to inop, I would sure drop the pan again and check everything. After you check and re-check all the electrical connections, of course.
 
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#5
Danica said:
Is the lever body properly engaged with the manual valve? I haven't reviewed the details on this trans, but sometimes the manual valve gets pushed too far into the valve body, and the lever body is installed without engaging the manual valve, so the manual valve never moves when you change gearshift lever position.

"If the filter felt out into the pan, would that cause the trans not to engage?" Maybe, especially if you were parked "nose-up", or if the fluid was low.
By "manual valve" do you mean the shaft that extends up from the lever body and connects to the manual lever/gear cable? If so, I didn't realize that the shaft may not engage with the rest of the valve body. I would have to take it back out and check. I do know that the shaft moves to each position up on top where it connects to the manual valve lever. Would the shaft still be moving properly up top, but just not be engaging something in the valve body below? Let me know if the shaft and manual valve are the same thing. ;D

I installed the filter while the car was up on the jack stands, so, in that sense it was nose-up. When I started up the engine after filling the trans with fluid, however, it was off the jack stands and ready to roll. If the filter coming off would also stop it from engaging, then, again I have to take off the pan and re-check. Do most folks get their filters directly from Chrysler? The ones I have gotten from the Auto Parts places don't really seem to fit tightly in there.
 
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#6
billr said:
You know more about the innards of that trans than I do. . . is the filter part of the pump suction "pick-up" down into the fluid? If there is any chance that filter came off (usually they attach with a screw or two), especially when the trans went from working to inop, I would sure drop the pan again and check everything. After you check and re-check all the electrical connections, of course.
I'm not sure if the filter is part of the pump suction "pick-up. " This filter doesn't attach with any screws. :-\ There is just a small inlet that extends out of the filter with an o-ring that fits into the underside of the lever body and a couple of small plastic prongs that extend out of the filter and are supposed to fit into a couple of small holes in the underside of the lever body. The prongs don't seem to really hold well. I'm not sure what to do about that, except purchase yet another filter directly from the Chrysler dealership with the hopes that it is a better fit. That requires a long bicycle ride each way, since I don't have wheels.
 
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#7
Jim Fairbanks said:
I agree. . . . I would drop the pan and make sure the filter didn't come loose and is laying in the bottom of the pan. . . . Jim
If the filter is off, could that cause the whole problem?

I guess I would still check the rest of the lever body out, after draining out all of the fluid again.
 
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#8
Okay, I drained out the oil again and removed the pan.

Sure enough, the filter is off and sitting in the bottom of the pan.
I'm going to bike over to the Chrysler dealership in the morning
and get their filter and, hopefully, it actually stays on!

Meanwhile, I did remove the Lever Body and the shaft that connects
to the rooster comb with all of the gear teeth on it moves just fine
to all positions. Everything else on there looks fine as well. So, I will
re-install that tomorrow.

Hopefully, it will just be a matter of the filter coming off that was the
problem. I hope!!!
 

bp042665

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#9
make sure to get the O Ring for the filter neck and there should be a little pin sticking up on the manule valve that goes into the rooster comb i am a trans builder and i have done it before and found that i missed the pin to the groove lol
 

billr

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#10
bp042665, we are short on trans experts here at batauto, I hope you stick around!
 
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#12
bp042665 said:
make sure to get the O Ring for the filter neck and there should be a little pin sticking up on the manule valve that goes into the rooster comb i am a trans builder and i have done it before and found that i missed the pin to the groove lol
I went over to Chrysler on the bus with the valve body in my lap in a plastic bag. (I was waiting for someone to ask me, "Is that a valve body in your lap, or are you just happy to see me?!") I wanted to make sure the Mopar filter was really going to stay on, since the other ones just fall off. Fortunately, it was a good tight connect and, yes, it did have the o-ring on it. ;)

Thanks for mentioning the pin between the manual valve and the rooster comb. I never actually removed the manual valve from the rooster comb itself. I just removed the old Transmission Range Sensor. I did confirm that the manual valve was actually moving the rooster comb to each gear.

I'm now going to reassemble everything and hope that it was just the filter that was the issue.

When I put the actuators back in, do the notches on those have to be in a certain position in the case bores?

Also, what do I need to do to rebuild the prime so that there is enough pressure for the pump to pull the oil up into the rest of the transmission so that it works right?
 

bp042665

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#13
well the accurator dont matter as long as you put them in the right way and as far as priming you dont have to worry the converter will hold plentyof fluid for the pump let me know how things go cuz there are a few other thing that can also give you this problem
 
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#14
Well, I got everything back together and added the fluid. I warmed it up to operating temperature and checked the level and it's at "warm" on the dipstick. I don't have any more fluid to add tonight. I revved it in neutral for awhile. I put it into gear and it didn't engage. (|0|)

What's my next step? Add more fluid? Is there some other procedure I need to do to get the oil pumped to the right areas to engage? Or does this pretty much mean my pump isn't working?
 

bp042665

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#15
if you have air take off the cooler lines there is a bypass valve that can stick and give you problems too blow air in both fitting if stuck this will free it up