I think you are going to need to go to the dealer, the older immobilizer systems had a trick so you could start and drive one trip. something like turn on the key, step on the brake pedal 5 times, then crank the car over and drive to the dealership.
The dealer tech will have to run a VIN status inquiry to get the immobilizer code from Honda Interactive Network, then recode the computer with that information.
do you have any idea howmuch it could cost and are they efficent because I did call the dealer today and the guy I talked to did not have any idea how much would it cost or itseems to me that he did not have any idea what has to be done to reprogram tha system. I would take it if I find some more info aboutit
Does this sound familiar, No Start, No Spark, No Injector Pulse, Fuel Pump works for initial key on for 2 ~ 3 seconds, CEL does the same few second cycle and the Immobilizer light also cycles. On a '97 Prelude, the computer needed reflashed with the Honda PGM Tester. On a '00 Accord No Start, it needed a new computer.
Are you using the original key and is the battery good in it.
yes it sounds familiar but i did start the car with a used pcm . about how did I fix the electric problem it had a bad short circuit and the pcm got burned and main relay and some others . I did check the electric wiring . but I have god news for you the car now starts after I had replaced the pcm for a used one and some relays . the problem now is the instrument cluster is not working properly all the instruments light are on an they never shut off I think the cluster it self got burned to.,what do you think?
Even if we told you what wire was shorted, you are still going to have to dig under the dash for it, can you borrow a cluster from a friend, they come out easily. The main relay does power up a portion of the Computer.
Idiot lights stay on all the time, never even heard of that one before with the car running. Pull out the cluster and give it a once over, you may very will see the problem, there are some actuall solder connections back there, not all PCB.
The only thing I could find was water intrusion into the fuse box causing all kinds of things to operate with the key removed, including the main relay clicking and dash lights flickering, but not sure if that was idiot lights or back lighting.