99 suburban intake

ebontrager

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#1
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MAKE:Chevrolet
MODEL:K1500 Suburban
YEAR:1999
MILES:236K
ENGINE
:5.7
DESCRIBE ISSUE....I have the intake manifold off of this vehicle currently because I am replacing the gaskets. I was wondering if there is anything that I should address while I have the Intake off. Honestly the vehicle is running well other than leaking coolant, but if there are any future problems that I could avoid w/o too much extra cost or whatever, maybe it might be worth it now. I don't know, but was just wondering
Thanks
Eric
 

nickb2

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#2
Just make sure you use "the right stuff" by permatex on all four corner where intake meets heads.

I also go high end on these gaskets, like the fel-pro brand. Other than that, you should be good.

This is the kit I normally install, I discard the RTV tube and use the right stuff. Some kits come with that cheap vinegar smell crap.
http://www.amazon.com/Felpro-MS-98014-Intake-Manifold/dp/B002LWL3XI
 

ebontrager

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Thanks I will make sure and use the right stuff. I was wondering if there is anything else I should address while it is apart. Injector cleaning or servicing possibly or anything else you can think of. Thanks
 

nickb2

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#5
Injector cleaning or servicing possibly or anything else you can think of. Thanks
Well, one thing I can think of, if you have the capacity to do so, would be to do a injector balance test. This might help identify if one or more cylinders are lacking due to injector blockage, AND ALWAYS PUT IN A NEW FUEL FILTER.

Often, when I do a intake job, I soak the injectors in a rubber made tub over night in a mixture of mopar combustion chamber cleaner and 1/3 gas.

I also change all the o-rings with neoprene green ones.

I think they are 5cents per o-ring. So that is a good investment on the cheap/down low.


Another thing I would do while in there, would be to check acidity of the coolant. Oh, and also, make sure the threads are clean, use shop air to remove any coolant from the bolt holes, they might give false torque readings and leak prematurely because of that sometimes obvious overlook.

I trust in you and believe this is a very easy job for your skill level.;)
 

jd

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#6
I thought Permatex Ultra Black was a bunch of hype, but it has served me very well. Goes w/out saying, but: Get those surfaces operating room clean before applying the sealant.
 

nickb2

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#7
Once engine is up to temp. Be sure to have a new set of spark plugs. Do your injector cleaning with the old set of SP's.

These are all cheap ways to do a proper long lasting job.

Hope that helped.
 

nickb2

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#8
I thought Permatex Ultra Black was a bunch of hype,
JD, from my experience, "the right stuff" is the best I have ever used. No hype involved at all.

I just think it is a awesome product for HD use. As for sealing surfaces, I was often under the time stamp rule, had no time to wait for mating surfaces to come to room temp.

But I am sure that is sound advice if you have the time and no shop foreman pushing you. I think that is why I love that product, it will seal pretty much anything in a new York minute.:cool:
 

nickb2

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#9
I have never used "ultra black"

But if you say it is better than "the right stuff", I am definitively going to give it a try. I do not know the fuel resistance of "ultra black" Does it hold up well in that type of situation in your opinion?

JD, are you referring to this?
http://www.permatex.com/documents/TDS/automotive/82180.pdf

I did not see in the data sheet that it was suitable for gas.

But I will try it in a gas system. JackC say that experience is the name we give to our mistakes. Is the "ultra black" cheaper than "the right stuff"?

Just asking.;)
 

billr

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I don't know that the Ultra Black is better, but my recollection is that it is a lot cheaper. Maybe easier to use? The UB is a paste I can spread with my finger; and my impression is that RS is a squirt can, like whipped cream. They are both Permatex products, so I would trust either to work good.
 

nickb2

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#11
Bill, I use the expensive tube, not the squirt can. I get a lot of work done with the caulking style tube. The squirt cans seem useless to me as I have to constantly charge my ppl with every squirt. With the squirt model, I find I loose half the product if left to long unattended.

Funny note, I did blow rivets on my last caulking gun (don't know if I am saying that right). I think my hand just cranked it so hard and I forgot to clean the nozzle. What a mess.:eek: Try to clean that off your overhauls or your big bills:giveup:That stuff sets up in close to 2-5 minutes.

That is why I like using it, makes for faster work and almost zero comebacks.

The tubes I buy are close to 50$ after taxes. But I still love the product. A parts guy tried to sell me a dual 5 ounce kit with a cheap caulking crap. Something like this.

http://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-99070-Right-Stuff-Gasket/dp/B000HBM6PE

I laughed with him, he basically was trying to mark me up. He laughed, he told me I was a hard sell. ;)

I still won at pool and told him he owed me a new tip for my welder. I miss my old life. Last call was on him, I dared him to play nines with me. But I ended up spending more cuz he smoked me at darts.

Live and learn.

His name is Bruno. He lost an arm elbow down in a skidoo accident. But he sure can hit a bulls-eye with the other arm. PPl are awesome.

 
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jd

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#12
Ultra Black sheet says "Not Rec for Gas." I've used it on applications like engine oil pans and marine exhaust (salt water). If I understand this intake manifold job, we're sealing the four corners where the neoprene strip seals meet the heads. That has me thinking "oil splash." I remember pulling an intake manifold because one of those corners hadn't stayed sealed. I want to say it was a 5.9L/360 Chrysler engine in a Dodge van. I later did a valve job on it and quickly found out the manifold was heavier than a head.
 

ebontrager

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#13
Thanks for all the advice and incite. I'll let you know how it goes. Might be a little bit because it got cold again and I am out in the driveway.
Thanks
 
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#14
Happy to report that the burb is back up and running now and leak free. I appreciate all the advice and input. I would say that the worst part was dealing with the bracket on the back side of the passenger side head. I wanted to unbolt it like I shouldn't have and the stud turned instead of the nut and then I broke off a little single wire that was grounded there. I ended up having to repair that before I could go back together with anything else. It's not the best place to work back there. For future reference, do not unbolt that bracket, just bend it back. It's a lot easier and it will also hold the wire harness up and out of the way. Live and learn I guess.

I wish I would have had the $ to replace the old spider injector unit with the multi port upgrade while I was in there, but I left them for now. I suspect we would have seen a nice improvement from doing that, but I guess we'll save that for another day. Thanks for the help.
Eric