AC issues 2008 Civic

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#16
This time, they said the AC compressor had failed due to high temperatures. They quoted me 1100. I didn’t want to, but I was hoping this would fix it once and for all.
Today, I picked the car up from the shop. Immediately got in and started driving. I’ve got Lukewarmish air coming from the vents, even after 20 minutes of driving and it only blows semi-cold on recirculating/ MAX AC setting.
I’m at a loss at this point. 1700 dollars later and I’m barely getting anything from this AC system.

The shop did not replace the dryer in the AC system. I have an appointment to take it to another shop next week

1 month ago my AC system quit working again. This time, it blew completely hot air- on a 90 degree day. I took it to a shop and they informed me it needed a new condenser
These three comments are in conflict with each other, or I/we are missing details. https://ca.autoshack.com/Auto/Cooli...MIqKasuN-e4wIV2YWzCh3iEgZ5EAQYASABEgII3_D_BwE

Above link will take you to a cheap condenser painted "black" :rolleyes: notice the attached dryer on the right. Even the cheapest ones come with a dryer. You know a black painted condenser is going to have an inferior fin count and bad heat exchange due to paint. A good quality one will be with aluminum not painted any color at all and have an equal, if not, superior fin count to OEM.

Any NEW condenser I have ever installed for these cars had a dryer attached.

That was my first conflict. Second conflict, when replacing a NEW compressor, the warranty will be voided if a new dryer and a proper flush of system is not done. Second conflict.

Third conflict, why go to another shop when last one said they put in a new compressor but did not install a new dryer? I don't think you should be footing another bill at all here. That is if you don't have papers proving work done. If you don't have, paperwork, your shyte out of luck in the warranty dept if they are a crooked shop.
Someone in another thread/ location mentioned that if the paperwork doesn’t state the dryer was replaced that means it most likely wasn’t. I have all paperwork/ any information given during the transaction so I could definitely just take it back to the same shop. The shop I took the car to obviously “seems” refutable, they’ve been listed in papers and given a good rating by the BBB.

This obviously doesn’t mean anything in the grand scheme of things, but I did call the new shop & told them my situation and they offered to take a look at the car for free.


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nickb2

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#17
So if you do have work order stating all this was done at time of first real AC intervention on your honda, call the company listed on the invoice. There should be a mention of comp part #. With that, a quick google is your friend search should provide who make the comp in your car that they installed. If nothing of the other things are on the invoice, this shop did sloppy work and are not only now on your dime, but probably out a few bones on a future f uped comp they installed. If this is the way they do business. I would not want to be a supplier of parts for these guys.

Again, I feel like I am beating a dead dog, but I always find these types of threads are read by alot of ppl because they themselves are going through this. That is why I tend to ramble on even after the original poster has left the building. These threads do get read. They stay up for yrs.

In the AC world, you really want to research the shop before getting work done. AC is not like as a simple disc brake and pad change/swap on a 2008 civic. Even some shops f that up. :eek: These are one of the simplest cars to fix. That and toyotas of this era.

That being said, many beers to drink this week was a doozy. 39c all week in shop. That's 102f for you USA folk!o_O SO this elvis is leaving the BAT building for some lazy time off. :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer: I may post back later. I feel your pain all when I post whilst drunk.

 
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#18
Look at rockauto.com, new condenser averages around 50 bucks, compressor that you wouldn't need if the job was done right, about 175 bucks.

Often talk about how can people afford to own anything the way some shops charge, ha on my son's Volvo Penta outdrive boat, dealer wanted $1800.00 to replace a main shaft bearing. Bring it over, NAPA has the bearing for 35 bucks, old one was never lubricated properly, added plenty of marine lubricant, took me about three hours total.

Wife's co-worker furnace igniter went out, $650.00 for an HVAC guy to come out and replace it, on mine, said don't open, did anyway, a real shit job of soldering it in China, like a two year old kid, while I was at it, installed a much larger Triac with a good heat sink. lasted forever, list goes on.

Can go on forever, friend payed $1,500.00 for a misfired, dealer installed several new parts, did not cure the misfire, in five minutes, stuck on my vacuum gauge, a couple of bolts were loose on the intake manifold.
 
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#19
I can’t seem to reply to the thread anymore. Thanks everyone for your input of this message is posted. I’ve tried posting replies for a couple hours now and they’re all waiting for approval


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nickb2

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#22
I am awake and feel like the movie sleepless in seattle. The one with tom hanks and meg ryan.

I have been on this site for a few years now. Maybe even a decade. That in itself shows my dedication, even if I am a heathen. :eek::oops:

But my mom once got caught in a no win situation car related. I was irate.

And that situation inspired me to become involved in sites like this. When I was done yelling at service rep, he said get out. I said no. You pay back what my mom paid, or you f ing fix it, or I take you, your supposed tech to limelight.

This sort of thread hits home to me, if you can't stand by your word, your business means nothing to me, and you deserve the same respect you gave my mom. Which is nada.

I have quit good paying jobs for less. I refuse to work for a guy who tells me to screw a customer. My paycheck does NOT come from my boss, it comes from the paying customer. He or she is my paycheck. Do them right the first time, they will come back. That is unless they are the sort of walmart type person looking for a deal every where shopping whilst naked.

 
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#23
Cost of AC repair has about tripled with R-134a, got rid of the schrader valve Like a tire valve, make it like new again with a new core, identical to a tire valve but not the same material use to cost around 50 cents, have a high side and a low side. Replace with a quick coupler very similar to an air hose quick coupler has a large rubber disc over a large cross section. If you depress it, have to, to check pressures, may never seat properly again and will have constant leaks. Can't just replace the valve, have to replace the entire high or low side line, some cars, over 400 bucks each.

Schrader valves had a metal cap with a neoprene disk inside as further protection, R-134a uses cheapass plastic, high side gets very hot may crack. Have a tool to replace a Schrader valve without discharging the system, R-134a has to be discharged, but haven't ran across an R-134a system yet that had any refrigerant left in.

Compressor seals became a problem with R-134a leaking, but doing a better job today, but the compressor must be removed, some use brake cleaning fluid to thoroughly flush it out, plus the rest of the system. I use NAPA lacquer thinner, that crap they sell at hardware stores is anything but. Then dried, put back together and draw a deep vacuum, R-12 could get buy with a single stage pump, R-134a requires a dual stage pump. No hurry let it run for a couple of hours, some shops, five minutes is enough.

If you pour that in an open system, even mild moisture will change it into an acid. Thank you Al Gore you criminal how much money did DuPont give you to push R-134a, and not biodegradable like R-12 and is causing global warming so they say.

First car with AC was a 65 Buick, ha didn't want AC before that, more interested in performance.,but sure spoiled now.
 
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#24
Hi all. My responses are posting now. I just wanted to first thank everyone again, for taking time to respond even if it looks like I had given up. So far, the AC is blowing cold air. I don’t know what happened. I’m not sure if it was just so incredibly hellishly hot that my AC just could not keep up, or if I was putting highly ridiculous expectations on my AC to blow golden cold air after such an expensive repair.
We all tend to put high expectations on our AC systems especially when it’s hot because we want that icy cold air!
I’m still not 100% convinced that this issue is resolved, so for that reason I’ll still be coming back to this thread in the future if I feel it should be looked at again.

To address everyone linking part numbers and explaining the DIY fixes, remember, I’m a student on limited time and limited budget while also managing to stay out of student loan debt. Plus, AC system is not something I’d mess with without high dollar equipment. I literally have to have this car to get me from point a, to point B. The only type of repairs I pay for are mechanical ones, evidenced by the fact my passenger window hasn’t rolled down in 2 years, and I have no sun visor on the drivers side . It gets regular maintenance, oil change, tires and brakes as needed. Everything else, as long as it starts up, there’s no problems.

Any time something goes wrong with this car, I head to forums. Nick is right, these threads stay up for years and years, and some poor college student with an old civic will eventually read this in hopes they can find a solution. To that person, whoever it is, I truly hope they get the answer here. Every response was helpful and a great resource for me in the future should more issues arise!








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#25
On vehicles that had some space between the condenser and the grille, could hang a screen door screen to deflect both bugs and stones. But next to impossible on these latest compact cars. Don't follow a pickup with mudflaps or a gravel truck too closely.

In regards to bugs, air conditioning needs air and plenty of it in the condenser, they sure block that and a PITA to clean. Also can get a lot of debris between the condenser and radiator. Lack of air and with R-134a especially, a lot worse than R-12, high side pressure increases drastically, up to 400 psi that really puts a lot of force on the compressor. A long time problem never solved.
 

nickb2

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#26
Any time something goes wrong with this car, I head to forums. Nick is right, these threads stay up for years and years, and some poor college student with an old civic will eventually read this in hopes they can find a solution. To that person, whoever it is, I truly hope they get the answer here. Every response was helpful and a great resource for me in the future should more issues arise!
Wow, thank you.

Those are very kind words, and I know I speak for others here. Never hesitate to come back.