I'm going to wait and see if someone else has an opinion, as mine would be "hearsay" only. Sad thing is that I had a burned valve on my Saturn a couple of years ago and did it myself; only cost $200. About $180 for gasket set, coolant, and gasket sealer; $16 for a valve. How is that RV worth now, enough to warrant putting in $2500/6000???
I LIVE in this RV and it is my only possession in the world and I love it and plan on keep living and traveling in it into the forseeable future, probably when MY BODY gives out, unless they come up with replacement parts . My only other option would be a new rig and that feels like a bigger pain.
If you can afford it, go with the Jasper. here's why...
They have a good product.
I bet their warranty will be honored in many cities as you travel. One independent shop won't help if you have a problem 1000 miles away.
Your engine is low-mileage, but old (assuming it is original). $2500 gets you half an engine. Major top end work sometimes ruins the bottom end. With Jasper it's all fresh and clean. I am assuming $6000 gets you a block with heads already installed. Does $6000 include spark plugs, injectors, timing belt, etc?
Go down to the "Transmission" forum, to the second page. There is a thread started by "CHRIS1" about Jasper, last post on 12/2/09. Read through the whole thread. My impression is that most people feel Jasper is reputable, and in that case they did seem to have done well in standing behind their product. Also, as Danica said, the warranty would be "nationwide" for you, a traveler; and I also think you would get more than twice-as-much value (service life and peace-of-mind) out of a total reman as a top-end-only job.
It really depends on what you want based on your budget. If peace of mind runs your budget, than 6000$ seems a steep price to pay for a 91 engine. I would also like to note that usually these 3vz-e engines go forever in a camry, in a light pick-up, I'm talking 500,000km to 600,000km, but a fully laden motorhome, I really don't know what one can fully expect out of such a small engine. 100,000 miles or kiolmeters? From where I come from even 160,000km is relatively very young for a 3.0l toy. I would expect that valve burnt because of another issue relating to ignition timing or other causing heat spots in cylinder. This problem needs to be addressed before putting in a new head assembly or engine, if not you risk burning that valve again and no amount of warranty will cover it if it is proven that a retarded ignition or blocked exhaust, or pre-ignition and even a vacuum leak which is fairly common in a toyota engine of this year due to complexe vacuum systems caused another failure.
As Bill has said, rebuilding a head with minimal parts should not be expensive, but that kind of job can't be expected to be the best as the head probably has not been checked for installed valve height, valve lash, valve guides, stem to guide clearence etc.
I once bought a eagle talon with a burned ex valve, 5$ for a used valve, 40$ for a head gasket, new valve seals were under 20$ for all 16 seals and a bunch of silicone. Did the trick for as long as I had that car. Drove that sucker wild too!! Problem was worn valve seals leaving deposits on valves, caused burnt ex valve. Would I have done a job like this for a customer, no way!!
If it was my truck, I would pull the heads, install the burned valve, and make damned sure everything related to tune up and timing was freaking pristine. Knowing myself, if I could, I would even pull only the head that housed the valve, but that is me being a cheap sucker and not wanting to invest 12hrs for a full rebuild, I would get this done in about 4 hours, max.
You on the other hand wish to have a proper job, a proper job can be done without investing 6000$. Just make sure those heads are rebuilt to specs, with new guides and seals and a good valve grinding, valve burn also when they don't seat well, compression seeping past a bad seat can cause a rush of really hot exhaust air that can get real hot and burn it if lots of oil deposits are on it. Kinda like having grease on a oxygen tank threads and pressurized oxygen seeps past, will ignite that and blow you to smitherines. Remember, exhaust valve don't cool as much as intake as they always have hot exhaust gas rushing past it. The engine in a RV such as yours needs an exceptional cooling system to keep this jap 3vz-e engine cool hauling that extra weight around. More attention to these details will save many troubles down the road for this 3.0l. Flushing coolant with a good rinsing agent, cleaning rad fins for better airflow, low temp thermostat, less than perfect tune up maintenance will not do in this engine vehicle size application. So paying 2500$ to get this upper engine redone is not paying to fix what may have caused the damage originally. That is the key to really fixing this thing.
Here is a link to Jasper engine&transmission review by the Better Buisiness Bureau, received A+ score.
Here is a link that points to the other side of the spectrum.
Wonder how BBB gets funded? Through better score ratings via brown envelopes? :ROFL I must be paranoid!! Conspiracy every where.
Here is another link to the BBB and it's grading system, worth the watch!! From ABC on you tube.
Kidding aside, research is your best weapon when buying such high price items. If I want to buy a 5000$ tv, you can bet I will check it out for returns to seller before buying it. As that annoying pompous a$$ called Dr Phil says, a good indicator of futur behaviour is past behaviour.
I might as well go grab a beer if I want to follow his logic!! :ROFL
That being said, check them out, put some time in looking at their success rate and not their glorious website, look to other sites that have ppl who have used their products. Apparently, many are real peeved at this company. Even if BBB has a A+ score. I personally don't trust the BBB, but that is my opinion.
That said, you should make certain that the Jasper warranty covers your RV.
From what I understand, RV's are often exempted from the warranty.
We sell directly to installers, not retail consumers, but
As far as the $6k, there must be some unnecessary markup.
We sell a reman 3VZE that is as good or better than the Jasper
(supplier has been in business for 60+yrs and built over 2,000,000)
for $2400 w/the 3yr/100k warranty *unfortunately, the warranty is not extended to RV's.
Hi Joe thanks for the input. Unfortunately it was discovered that this person and the RV in question were having difficulties of another order when it came to sticking with one garage and technician. The warranty is probably trashed now since the initial problem, that burnt the valve, was never corrected. The op kept going to different places hoping the warranty would follow I suppose. She (I presume) was thrown out of the last garage and told not to come back. The whole story of this one is in another thread around here somewhere.
I had to join just to comment after doing complaint research. I bought a medium performance 350 for my chevy truck. It had wolverine cam, hyper eutectic pistons, edlebrock parts, other cutom parts, Headwork, blah blah. Not a race motor, I told them I wanted it for LONG LIFE and better than stock power.
So, after sending them thousands of dollars, they sent my new, NOT SHINY motor. It was dirty. I took it and the truck to a local shop to have it put in. Right away they had troubles. Seems a bolt had been broken off in a block hole and they couldnt bolt it to the bellhousing. Then we find the top of the block had been machined or the heads shaved---something I cant remember but the intake manifoild wouldnt seat. We had to use a LOT of silicone to make big seals that still leak a bit. Then at about 500 miles several lifters went bad. I had to have the local chevy garage change them but they only had stock chevy lifters and not the aftermarket brand Jasper used. Jasper did pay for it though. The engine continued to smoke a bit and use oil. CHevy said it looked like bad valve stem seals? I couldnt aford to have it taken apart agin as I had to use it to get to my new job. Now I have 38,000 on it and its always used oil. To top it off---IT JUST BLEW A HEAD GASKET! Some long life, eh? Jasper says they wont do anything about it their warranty was very short. Ive asked them for advice about what type of gasket, if the block was altered, if the heads were shaved, etc etc to get the right gasket but they have no record of me!! Very cool. I would never buy from Jasper again. A local private transmission shop told me he rebuilds Jasper rebuilds all then time.
Did you buy a short block or a long block ??
Improper cam breakin can ruin a good engine !!!
The Zinc has been removed from the oil, and because of this, it is causing cam failure in most OHV engines. To fix this, you need to buy a zinc additive or an oil with zinc in it to stop the problem, but it may be too late. If it comes to that, pulling the engine is the best bet. You need to make sure the metal which came off the cam and lifters didn't scratch the bearings or destroy the oil pump.
OHC engines aren't affected. It affects all OHV engines (hydraulic and solid lifters), except for roller cams. The zinc coats the lifters and the cam, making the contact smoother, and allowing the lifters to spin without wiping out the cam.
It's probably sucking oil thru the ill fitting intake manifold!!
Did you use new head bolts ???
irrespective of everything else,if you receive a rebuilt that is covered in dirt as well as the other things you mentioned,why did you even install it?i would have sent it back with my "compliments" to the hack that built it.