disconnecting the battery is not a fix but if you are happy with it that's what counts.
Trouble Code Definitions
Battery power (voltage) level drops below level to crank engine
- Thread starter josiah
- Start date
Why are you disconnecting the battery? I thought the battery is now new, and you were chasing a different problem; that of battery voltage being OK but no crank and no/low voltage at the starter power terminal.
R&R of that negative cable is definitely "a change", each-and-every time. However, it is confusing, as I thought you had already found near-zero voltage from battery to chassis/engine ground during one of the no-crank episodes.
R&R of that negative cable is definitely "a change", each-and-every time. However, it is confusing, as I thought you had already found near-zero voltage from battery to chassis/engine ground during one of the no-crank episodes.
Grcauto and billr,
1) lately the reason I disconnect the negative battery cable when the car is inactive because previously when I left the neg cable connected the battery drained(lost voltage) down to appx 10 or less volts or not enough to crank engine. That was my original problem in my first question. When the negative cable was left connected I had to repeatedly recharge battery. Now that I disconnect negative cable the battery is apparently keeping it’s charge, and NO need to recharge it. I do not consider this in no way as a fix; I only do it to prevent the battery drain.
2) update: yesterday 9/12 the engine cranked and started immediately. So it has cranked and started consistently lately.
3) billr, above you asked “is the battery new” my reply->. No. same battery.
appreciate your help.
thanks, joe
1) lately the reason I disconnect the negative battery cable when the car is inactive because previously when I left the neg cable connected the battery drained(lost voltage) down to appx 10 or less volts or not enough to crank engine. That was my original problem in my first question. When the negative cable was left connected I had to repeatedly recharge battery. Now that I disconnect negative cable the battery is apparently keeping it’s charge, and NO need to recharge it. I do not consider this in no way as a fix; I only do it to prevent the battery drain.
2) update: yesterday 9/12 the engine cranked and started immediately. So it has cranked and started consistently lately.
3) billr, above you asked “is the battery new” my reply->. No. same battery.
appreciate your help.
thanks, joe
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I say goodbye.
nickb2
Wrench. Diagnostic Tech.
some times, you have to wonder. I am in awe every day at simple things such as this.
If I had no interest in finding the parasitic drain, I would at least install, a shut off slash cut off thingy, like when you go put your summer car away. That way, you dont massacre the battery post and such.
If I had no interest in finding the parasitic drain, I would at least install, a shut off slash cut off thingy, like when you go put your summer car away. That way, you dont massacre the battery post and such.
nickb2
Wrench. Diagnostic Tech.
Your logic is flawed. you need to understand we are here to help, if you do not heed advice, it is pointless. My co freebie's here are trying to help. Hint wink nod etc.
nickb2
Wrench. Diagnostic Tech.
billr, Grcauto, jack c, nickbb2, Mobile Dan,
Yesterday 9/26 reattached negative cable and engine did not crank. I only heard one click I assume from the starter.
so l checked cable battery clamps and both were tight. And battery reading was 12.21. So I tried second time, engine cranked and started immediately.
brief history:
please see my 7/29 post #31
1) you are right at first there seemed to be parasitical drain. when I recharged the battery it would crank and start engine. But if I left battery connected around 8 or more hours the power would drop below level to crank engine. So I was repeatedly recharging battery.
2) Then a symptom change. The engine would not crank. engine would not crank with a fully charged battery and it would not using my battery charger engine start feature.
3) Now the engine has cranked and started consistently. But I am leaving negative cable disconnected when car is not in use.
Any advice appreciated.
thanks, joe
Yesterday 9/26 reattached negative cable and engine did not crank. I only heard one click I assume from the starter.
so l checked cable battery clamps and both were tight. And battery reading was 12.21. So I tried second time, engine cranked and started immediately.
brief history:
please see my 7/29 post #31
1) you are right at first there seemed to be parasitical drain. when I recharged the battery it would crank and start engine. But if I left battery connected around 8 or more hours the power would drop below level to crank engine. So I was repeatedly recharging battery.
2) Then a symptom change. The engine would not crank. engine would not crank with a fully charged battery and it would not using my battery charger engine start feature.
3) Now the engine has cranked and started consistently. But I am leaving negative cable disconnected when car is not in use.
Any advice appreciated.
thanks, joe
One big click usually means a problem within the starter assembly; either the contactor that the solenoid is closing or the starter brushes, or the armature windings. Winding issues rarely "self-heal", so likely one of the other two. Reading voltage at that big stud on the solenoid with the short strap/cable going inside the starter case will tell if the solenoid contacts are the problem. Just a solenoid can be replaced, and sometimes the contacts can be rotate 180 degrees to "renew" them enough for quite a bit more use.
If the problem is low voltage to the other big stud on the solenoid, from bad battery/cables/connections, then that usually shows up as a continuous "click-click-click..." What happens is the battery/circuit is good enough to power the solenoid coil and pull it in, making a click, then the starter contacts "make" and the starter motor puts a heavy load on the circuit. So, voltage to the solenoid then drops so low that the coil can't hold the contacts together. They open, the heavy load goes away, voltage is again good enough to pull the solenoid in and make contact, then the whole cycle repeats... click-click-clik
If the problem is low voltage to the other big stud on the solenoid, from bad battery/cables/connections, then that usually shows up as a continuous "click-click-click..." What happens is the battery/circuit is good enough to power the solenoid coil and pull it in, making a click, then the starter contacts "make" and the starter motor puts a heavy load on the circuit. So, voltage to the solenoid then drops so low that the coil can't hold the contacts together. They open, the heavy load goes away, voltage is again good enough to pull the solenoid in and make contact, then the whole cycle repeats... click-click-clik
billr,
I appreciate your complete explanations above. I have read it repeatedly to get a full understanding.
INFO:
1) I wanted to let you know that the car is still CRANKING AND STARTING. after reconnecting negative battery cable.
2) Previously, during the period when the engine did not crank, I usually got one barely audible click on the first try; on follow up tries I got no click. Then, if I waited hours or days later the same, one click on the first try only.
3) And during the period when it didn’t crank I do not recall hearing repeated clicks (click, click, click...)
thanks, joe
I appreciate your complete explanations above. I have read it repeatedly to get a full understanding.
INFO:
1) I wanted to let you know that the car is still CRANKING AND STARTING. after reconnecting negative battery cable.
2) Previously, during the period when the engine did not crank, I usually got one barely audible click on the first try; on follow up tries I got no click. Then, if I waited hours or days later the same, one click on the first try only.
3) And during the period when it didn’t crank I do not recall hearing repeated clicks (click, click, click...)
thanks, joe
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Billr,
update: engine still cranking and starting immediately; after negative cable reattached.
Nickb2,
billr, Grcauto and jackc, have recommended multiple tests, especially billr, to diagnose the problem. I have not refused to do any of the tests they have recommended. And i think I have done all recommended tests.
Instead I appreciate their help and concern.
thanks, joe
update: engine still cranking and starting immediately; after negative cable reattached.
Nickb2,
billr, Grcauto and jackc, have recommended multiple tests, especially billr, to diagnose the problem. I have not refused to do any of the tests they have recommended. And i think I have done all recommended tests.
Instead I appreciate their help and concern.
thanks, joe
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