Battery power (voltage) level drops below level to crank engine

grcauto

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grcauto, thanks for reply. I have limited knowledge about auto electrical systems but I am learning. For example, previous problems with this car were confusing but with each one in the end I learned something I didn’t know before. I really want to solve and fix this. At least now I have a better understanding of a short. Also I feel that a shop will simply throw parts at me.

billr, update: the engine is cranking and starting good now. And has done good lately. I appreciate your advice.

thanks, joe
disconnecting the battery is not a fix but if you are happy with it that's what counts.
 

billr

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Why are you disconnecting the battery? I thought the battery is now new, and you were chasing a different problem; that of battery voltage being OK but no crank and no/low voltage at the starter power terminal.

R&R of that negative cable is definitely "a change", each-and-every time. However, it is confusing, as I thought you had already found near-zero voltage from battery to chassis/engine ground during one of the no-crank episodes.
 

josiah

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Grcauto and billr,
1) lately the reason I disconnect the negative battery cable when the car is inactive because previously when I left the neg cable connected the battery drained(lost voltage) down to appx 10 or less volts or not enough to crank engine. That was my original problem in my first question. When the negative cable was left connected I had to repeatedly recharge battery. Now that I disconnect negative cable the battery is apparently keeping it’s charge, and NO need to recharge it. I do not consider this in no way as a fix; I only do it to prevent the battery drain.
2) update: yesterday 9/12 the engine cranked and started immediately. So it has cranked and started consistently lately.
3) billr, above you asked “is the battery new” my reply->. No. same battery.

appreciate your help.

thanks, joe
 
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grcauto

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Seems you lost interest in finding the cause of your parasitic draw.
 

billr

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Yep, I am also wondering if that was ever checked.
 

josiah

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Billr and Grcauto,
update->cranked and started quickly( note: after reconnecting negative cable).
thanks, joe
 

billr

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Is that acceptable as a final fix, disconnecting the battery to avoid discharge? Can we call this one "closed"?
 

nickb2

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some times, you have to wonder. I am in awe every day at simple things such as this.

If I had no interest in finding the parasitic drain, I would at least install, a shut off slash cut off thingy, like when you go put your summer car away. That way, you dont massacre the battery post and such.

 

nickb2

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My further thoughts
1) I think the battery is fine. It passed the voltage test. And when I disconnect the negative cable it holds it's power. Please let me know if my logic is flawed.
Your logic is flawed. you need to understand we are here to help, if you do not heed advice, it is pointless. My co freebie's here are trying to help. Hint wink nod etc.
 

josiah

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billr, Grcauto, jack c, nickbb2, Mobile Dan,

Yesterday 9/26 reattached negative cable and engine did not crank. I only heard one click I assume from the starter.
so l checked cable battery clamps and both were tight. And battery reading was 12.21. So I tried second time, engine cranked and started immediately.

brief history:
please see my 7/29 post #31
1) you are right at first there seemed to be parasitical drain. when I recharged the battery it would crank and start engine. But if I left battery connected around 8 or more hours the power would drop below level to crank engine. So I was repeatedly recharging battery.
2) Then a symptom change. The engine would not crank. engine would not crank with a fully charged battery and it would not using my battery charger engine start feature.
3) Now the engine has cranked and started consistently. But I am leaving negative cable disconnected when car is not in use.

Any advice appreciated.

thanks, joe
 

billr

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One big click usually means a problem within the starter assembly; either the contactor that the solenoid is closing or the starter brushes, or the armature windings. Winding issues rarely "self-heal", so likely one of the other two. Reading voltage at that big stud on the solenoid with the short strap/cable going inside the starter case will tell if the solenoid contacts are the problem. Just a solenoid can be replaced, and sometimes the contacts can be rotate 180 degrees to "renew" them enough for quite a bit more use.

If the problem is low voltage to the other big stud on the solenoid, from bad battery/cables/connections, then that usually shows up as a continuous "click-click-click..." What happens is the battery/circuit is good enough to power the solenoid coil and pull it in, making a click, then the starter contacts "make" and the starter motor puts a heavy load on the circuit. So, voltage to the solenoid then drops so low that the coil can't hold the contacts together. They open, the heavy load goes away, voltage is again good enough to pull the solenoid in and make contact, then the whole cycle repeats... click-click-clik
 
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