belt chirp,, 1997 ford E150 XLT club wagon 5.4 235K with rear A/C / heat

Mobile Dan

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I have done "clutch plate and pulley" many times on those vehicles. You don't have to discharge. If the coil is the "press-on" design, I leave the old one in place if it is still working/not damaged.
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NickD

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With multiple drive belts, use to install compressors on top of the engine, easy to work on, with a single drive belt, mount them at the bottom, around here, exposed to road salt.

R-134a is a PITA to work on, should completely dry out the system, install a new dryer, draw a deep micron vacuum and inject that women's facial cream into one of the ports. Any moisture in the system forms an acid that will eat your system away.

On these types of vehicle with no front room to work with, been able to remove the compressor mounts, very carefully and bend the front end of the compressor to work on the clutch.most have neoprene hoses, look first and tie it up with wires.

Typically with just the clutch going back a few years, was only 50 bucks more to get the entire compressor with it. Really nail you for just the clutch.

Some use a snap ring to hold the dual roll ball bearing in place, some are pressed in, worse are peened in. Once the bearing is in hand, can snap off the seals from the outside, clean off all the old dried up grease, check for any pits and pack it full with Wolf's high temperature Red bearing grease, will last forever.

Best cages are revited, next best, spot welded, cheap crap from China, plastic, pitch those.

Plate may be pressed on, better with a large nut should be adjusted some with shims for about 8 mils of clearance. Magnetic force decreases by the square of the distance, few thousands more, won't pull in.

Another PITA is the clutch magentic coil, most pull 4 amps, more, could have shorted turns.

Back in 1956, York compressors were used with an oil sump, most had a sight glass to check the oil level, later they were mixing the mineral oil with the refrigerant, cheaper, but more like a 2 cycle engine compared with a four. Even your refrigerator has an oil sump, they last for years. But in automotive can loose just the oil with explosed seals, that's when the compressor seizes.

Prices going way up on this crap, quality way down.
 

jigfeett

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update gather parts as money comes available. Opted for the full parts replacement, comp, cond, accu,idlers, tensioner have it, belt have it.
 

jigfeett

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Gathering the parts to do a complete repair
balancer on hand
condensor on hand
 

jigfeett

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Got in there over the weekend.
went to town cleaning grease and stuff.
list of parts
Balancer and seal didn't fix the squeak but did fix the wobble
Steel idlers tensioner and belt still squeaked
A/C compressor, squeak gone,
new accumulator and condenser and
orifice tube "metal all over it"
flushed all the lines and evaporators.
Nice to see this one done.
Fours seasons premium accumulator and condenser not so premium
 

NickD

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Kicked off an old memory on our old Ford T-Bird harmonic balancer, Ford put a piece of rubber between the two sheave halves claiming was for noise suppression. Made a heck of a noise due to belt slippage, rubber was falling apart.

Wanted 250 bucks for a new one, screw that, removed it drilled holes and used nuts and bolts with spacers to hold it together, no more noise and lasted another 120K miles for us, sold it, people go nuts over T-Birds.
 

jigfeett

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that is exactly what happened the rubber was cracked and coming out of its area, I could pull little pieces out. I think it was only $50 Dorman branded part
 

NickD

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Broke a New Britain harmonic balancer puller trying to remove that puller from a 55 Ford V-8, read that Ford was producing a new Ford every two minutes, think all the parts were red hot when assembled.

On Japanese cars with timing belts, balancer is keyed, remove the nut and can remove that pulley with your fingers.

Paying the price with Al Gore R-134a from DuPont, wonder how much cash he got from DuPont to make the switch with the false lying about R-12 affecting the ozone layer, zero proof on that from NASA. But could release R-12, heck some guys never even bothered pulling a vacuum , would just purge the system with R-12, was more conversative. would capture and reuse it. Just draw a deep vacuum and pour it back in, mineral oil was moisture resistant, but vacuuming will get it out.

Not true with R-134a, using a women's facial cream that not only absorbs moisture but changes it to an acid, if you don't flush the system completely out, draw a micron vacuum, than pump in the lubricant with zero contact with the air, will form an acid and eat away your system from the inside out. Also must replace the dryer each time.

Even with R-12, use to make cars that the entire AC system can be moved to the side to remove the engine with discharging it, no way with this new crap. Compressors were removed from the top with long hoses, not at the bottom exposed to road salt with no hose play. With FWD cars inner fender is in the way, that can be removed.

With most Fords I worked on, clutch could be removed with a wrench and shims used for proper gap, GM liked the friction method requiring a puller installer, over the years have three of those keep on changing, practically all imports use shims, I like ten mils for more positive engagement. But never had to discharge the system to remove the clutch. Could also clean them up with my machine lathe. Rebuild compressor is slightly more expensive than just replacing the clutch, they hold a gun to your hear while purchasing one.

Been able to remove that double roll ball bearing, clean it in thinner and use high temperature red ball bearing grease of the bearing that last forever.

Gore's argument against R-12 was chlorine,only 4 percent of it was used for AC, rest for spray cans and everything else. But kind of ignored the major production of chorine used in our billions of gallons water supplies, this guy is a first class crook. Spray cans switch to propane that is extremely dangerous.
 

NickD

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Ever wonder why they do thing the way they do? Belt versus a chain, huge difference, a chain should us an adjustable Just to take up the play placing a minimum load radial loads on the components it rotates.

Belt so it won't slip needs lots of tension so it won't slip and they are constantly flexing, typical tensioners are placing over a hundred pound on force, that goes on all the component, the water pump, alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor, idler pulleys and tensioners.

Weakest link in these systems is the water pump, typically a bronze bearing that wears, has a seal the shaft is rattling in to cause it to leak, lose coolant, aluminum head cracks and that is the end of it. By the way they don't use aluminum because it saves weight, only a couple of pounds, its just a lot cheaper but can't tell that from the sticker price.

Since all the components are located on the outside, a chain receives constant engine oil lubrication that is changed every 5000 miles or so, belt driven components use what I like to call, very limited lubricated ball bearings. Sure don't want cheap China grease with non-hardened ball bearings, grease dries up, bearing seizes, breaks the belt, and with an aluminum head that will crack if heated an extra coupler of degrees, will be left stranded in some God forsaken place.

O4 Cavalier was not to bad PS pump was driven by the rear camshaft, water pump by the timing chain, with no tensions of that pump shafted, no problems, just the alternator and AC compressor were driving by the belt. You can drive a vehicle without an alternator, but not without a battery and losing AC won't kill you.

One thing they did not do was use a sprocket to take up the slack, used a slide instead, had to be replaced after 100k. Darn good engine, but after seven years, body was crap, rocker panels rusted out from the inside, with a dip in the center of the car. Could but new panels but nothing left to weld them unto.

Should take a poll on this, how many people are willing to pay two bucks extra for a fuel pump access plate so you don't have to drain and drop the tank to replace that POS fuel pump?
 

nickb2

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Broke a New Britain harmonic balancer puller trying to remove that puller from a 55 Ford V-8, read that Ford was
To this effing f ing day, ford still has tapered nonsense, when a key is way more bullet proof in long run. Ford, for reason pretty much know, they do it thier way, want to remove wiper, remove engine, proceed to step 2.
 

nickb2

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Ever wonder why they do thing the way they do? Belt versus a chain, huge difference, a chain should us an adjustable Just to take up the play placing a minimum load radial loads on the components it rotates.

Belt so it won't slip needs lots of tension so it won't slip and they are constantly flexing, typical tensioners are placing over a hundred pound on force, that goes on all the component, the water pump, alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor, idler pulleys and tensioners.

Weakest link in these systems is the water pump, typically a bronze bearing that wears, has a seal the shaft is rattling in to cause it to leak, lose coolant, aluminum head cracks and that is the end of it. By the way they don't use aluminum because it saves weight, only a couple of pounds, its just a lot cheaper but can't tell that from the sticker price.

Since all the components are located on the outside, a chain receives constant engine oil lubrication that is changed every 5000 miles or so, belt driven components use what I like to call, very limited lubricated ball bearings. Sure don't want cheap China grease with non-hardened ball bearings, grease dries up, bearing seizes, breaks the belt, and with an aluminum head that will crack if heated an extra coupler of degrees, will be left stranded in some God forsaken place.

O4 Cavalier was not to bad PS pump was driven by the rear camshaft, water pump by the timing chain, with no tensions of that pump shafted, no problems, just the alternator and AC compressor were driving by the belt. You can drive a vehicle without an alternator, but not without a battery and losing AC won't kill you.

One thing they did not do was use a sprocket to take up the slack, used a slide instead, had to be replaced after 100k. Darn good engine, but after seven years, body was crap, rocker panels rusted out from the inside, with a dip in the center of the car. Could but new panels but nothing left to weld them unto.

Should take a poll on this, how many people are willing to pay two bucks extra for a fuel pump access plate so you don't have to drain and drop the tank to replace that POS fuel pump?

All this, can be boiled down to one word, nonsense. ;)
 

NickD

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Sick of hearing car salesman saying you only have one belt to replace, ignoring if that one belt breaks, your dead.

How about saying you only have one tire to replace, we all will be riding unicycles.
 
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