Bravada electric problem

MDSKY

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Feb 8, 2007
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I have a problem with my 2000 Olds Bravada. When I start it up,the gauges and the dash test lights don't operate at first.The battery light stays on ,and the alternator is not charging.Sometimes everything goes back to normal in a few seconds. Sometimes not at all.The alternator tested ok.I looked in the owners book for a underhood relay that might be the cause,with no luck. Any ideas? It is a 4.3 L V6. Thanks.
 

Jim Fairbanks

wrench
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Nov 17, 2006
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Have you checked the battery to make sure it is ok?....Also check the battery fuse..here is a diagram....Jim.........On the lower right side of the radiator support, below the battery


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Mobile Dan

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When the problem is occuring, try wiggling the key handle. If it starts working you may have a problem with the ignition switch.
 

NickD

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Yeah, a five position four pole switch with weak floating contacts with tiny springs using bare copper for a contacts, a problem even before you start. Just not a single contact switch, many contacts, so can get all kinds of weird problems. I prefer polishing those contacts myself to a bright mirror finish, and lubricate with Lubriplate while flattening the tips for more contact area, and increasing the spring tension. Buy a new one that was sitting on the shelve for the last ten years, can be just as badly corroded with the grease rock hard.
 

MDSKY

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Feb 8, 2007
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I took out the battery,to access the fuse and it checked out ok.I took the battery to my Deka dealer and they said it was healthy. The problem still remained.On a hunch I took the battery out of my wife's car,and put it in the Bravada. Problem solved!I took the old battery to Sears, they load checked it and it failed. I guess the electronic battery testers aren't as reliable as they would have you believe. Thanks again for all your advice.
 

Ford_Dude

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Nov 14, 2006
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The handheld testers are junk. Had a couple pass the test (conductivity) and still fail to start a car. My opinion is that the carbon pile load test will never steer you wrong. Make sure its 12.6 then load test it.

Ford_Dude
 

NickD

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I sure had my battles trying to return a defective battery with those toys, I do have a VAT-33 carbon pile tester. Their theory is to emit a pulse to the battery to measure the electrical capacitance of the battery that is suppose to tell indirectly the effective condition of the battery. There is a ton of connections in the battery where poor electrical connections can and do exist and this tester assumes the internal resistance of the battery is constant with load. Nothing can be further from the truth, the internal resistance is nothing but linear, skyrockets with load increases. I also do a three minute charge and discharge test, discharge should be at least 85% of the charge rate, when I bring in a defective battery, I know it's defective, but have to argue with a dimwitted clerk. Got so angry one time, everyone in the store turned around. I didn't care, but did get an exchange.

Could this vehicle even start? Sounded more like an intermittent problem, but batteries can have intermittent problems as well.
 

Mobile Dan

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If too much torque is required to loosen or tighten the connections on a top post battery, internal problems may occur if the plastic case of the battery flexes too much.
 
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