Caliber Cam sensor, which is which

nickb2

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#16
Confirm 5v supply and wiggle test, if all ok, test ground return to pcm, wiggle test and tighten all grounds point/choke points. If all ok, suspect faulty pcm, but DON"T JUMP THERE YET.

5V supply are the illiterate blue circles :D

Don't forget to ohm test EACH WIRE YOU TOUCH!! From sensors to pcm pins ;)

All is here for you to make a successful diagnosis and not see this client back unless for a brake job or better service. Customer service is #1. Don"t hold back because you feel dizzy. Regroup and come back strong, you will have a customer for life cuz you did it right the first time.
 

billr

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#17
"One thing I question is if this code for the cam sensor could be setting because of cranking slow?"

I can't say for sure, of course, but that seems unlikely to me. From the schematics posted, it looks like both the CKP and CMP sensors are Hall-effect types, and a properly designed system with Hall-effect sensing should work fine at even zero speed.
 

nickb2

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#18
Thank you bill for helping. Yes, in a hall effect tri system like this, many avenues for amp draw and codes such as the op is experiencing. But in a situation like this, the car will keep running but the algorithm of the pcm will keep it in limp in mode by design. Hence the loop design of the hall effects. Good call on that one Bill.

In a case like this, need to zero amp the wires associated and also check to ground. I assume you know this but am assuming the op maybe needs more experience with a DVM. If all was open, no go. So assuming a pcm power transistor intermittent short or resistive wire at points shown in awkward drawings.

At that point a scope is very useful. But assuming op does not have one or his employer has not provided one and showed him how it works.
 

nickb2

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#19
Wondering if this Caliber is fixed? Did the op find the cam sensor at rear of head? I really went all out to specify. Sucks to see an interesting thread like this go to waste. Hoping the info will help others on these VVT's.:confused:
 
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#20
I hate to bring back a dead post but I am having trouble finding the same sensor. I found the one near the intake.
 

Log

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#21
Crank and cam B1S1/ B1S2 are isolated by the pcm, (this much is clear by the snap shot I will post again with my best doodling ever ???) so do not to go looking for fuses and sh$t. Concentrate on a loose pin, connection, rub to ground. Also, I think that heat shield may be a good cause for this. Make sure harness is well away from that and secured with tie wraps or similar.

way to pay attention man! you have good diagnostic intuition. I know this is an old post but I see your still active. I'm currently dealing with this issue I think the problem here is that said "Cam sensor b1s2" is just a vvt solenoid so one would not think to check this and just assume b1s1 (the cam sensor behind the exhaust shield) is the culprit.

I think that is what has happened in my case. the b1s1 was replaced this did not fix the issue so the throttle body was replaced the tps (pps) and lastly the fusebox(tipm) was replaced. after all this, this is where I pick up. I'm going to start with the vvt solenoid/b1s2 cam sensor after of course I check connection and continuity to the pcm, grounds, dead shorts, and pcm supplied voltage. do you know of any parameters I could use to test the vvt solenoid?

thanks
 
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#22
Having the OEM 07 caliber manual, If latest poster listed the codes and issues he is dealing with I will try to add info. BUT need codes.
 

Log

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#23
Car was driving interstate speed for 30 mins then shut down they got the car started in limp mode
And started throwing parts at it
PCM has 20 codes! I may just start looking for bad grounds.
P0366
P0315
P0522
P0507
P0573
P2302
P2308
P2311
P2017
P0113
P0369
P0335
The rest show pending due to being in limp mode
Misfires idle air etc
 
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#25
There is NO way you can tell me all that happened at once - you were driving along then BAM a dozen plus codes...

Tell us what modifications, add on's, repairs have been done.

Thats a days work just looking them all up....
 

Log

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#26
There is NO way you can tell me all that happened at once - you were driving along then BAM a dozen plus codes...

Tell us what modifications, add on's, repairs have been done.

Thats a days work just looking them all up....
Haha i hear yea I’ve spent a lot of time researching this issue.
I’m just going by what I’m told they said they got a CEL light and a few minutes later it shut down. Car is stock the only thing I’ve done is put an alternator on a year or so ago scan tool said 43,000 miles since last dtc

Okay, i pulled the b1s2 cam position/vvt solenoid and reinstalled then traced it back to pcm checking continuity and connections now it runs with no dtc. Problem now is i don’t know which connection/splice was loose i tried for an hour to make it fail again and lengthy test drive it seems to be fixed. Do you know of a test method for that solenoid/ sensor?
 

Log

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#28
Thinking a little more i think i can reasonably assume that the large splice of commons was the issue due to the long list of codes i don’t have a wiring diagram but i traced a few to coils which were also dtcs one looked like it went the the IAC which was also a dtc. the b1s1 cam sensor was a dtc also i bet i could trace that back to this same splice I’ll check it out more tomorrow
 
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#29
A sh!tload of codes sometimes happens when the same guy who throws parts at it will also tries "disconnect this and see what happens". I consider "the disconnect test" valid because crazy things happen when sensors short internally and make the signal voltage go too high or the 5v circuit go too low and knock out other sensors on the same circuit.
 
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#30
Anything to ADD?
Clearing codes as done and lets wait and see.

is air bag light on?
Did you look in freeze frame?
Double ck new alt, check diodes.
Confirm engine is STOCK, no programmers, chips. GPS added, anything plugged in to DTC connector?
Is this a Recent purchase?