Dodge Turbo 2.2 A-413 Transmission Test Plug Leak

jjdrewski

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We're keeping an old Dodge 1985 2.2 Turbo running and was forced to replace all the A-413 tranny pans due to corrosion. Pans are now dry as a bone. BUT--there's always a but-- The Governor Pressure test plug is leaking . Put on a few drops of locktite and managed a few easy turns but still leaking. Is it possible to fix this kind of leak without draining the fluid again? Since its is only under pressure when in gear, can I remove the plug engine off, clean the threads, wrap some Teflon tape around it and put it back in without losing much fluid. Need some experience here which I don't have. Thanks.????
 

Transman

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If you mean the 1/8 or 8 mm pipe plug on the case, yes. You can remove it (with the engine off)(sorry, had to say it, Grin) then use some teflon tape to help seal it or clean the threads and plug very good and use some RTV but you have to wait for that to cure before you can use the vehicle. My concern, since it it a pipe plug, how can it be leaking? You should just tighten it a bit more to stop the leak. Examine closely for a crack in the case there. Post results, Transman
 

jjdrewski

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Thanks Transman. Yes thats the plug. Crack in the case is a scary thought--Can I safely use green tracer dye/uv light in the transmission to see if its cracked? If it is cracked, Will super glue or some other elixer be safe to try? Being an old car, I don't want to over do on expenses, but its a good runner and gets better than the govt 18mpg for disposal credit. Thanks.
 

Transman

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How snug is the plug now? Try the sealer trip first, recomend the RTV but use it sparingly. You don't wnat any getting inside the trans. Post back, Transman
 

jjdrewski

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Plug is as snug as I dare using 1/4 drive with fingertips. Will do more when driveway dries out. Thanks.
 

jjdrewski

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Do I have to drain the fluid to get the threaded hole dry enought for sealer?
 

Cheef

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Pull the plug out...you will get a little drizzle at best. You can use a bit of brakleen to clean the area. If you want, go to dealer and spend $6 on the MoPar Transmission RTV. It is designed to set up quickly in the presence of tranny fluid (BTW, it is superior sealer for ANY RTV application.) Put the sealer higher up on the plug threads so it does NOT enter the governor circuit. The pipe plug needs to be tight and that is more torque than 1/4 drive with fingertips.

If case is cracked, I'd clean the external area to bare metal with a roloc pad, make sure it is liberally sprayed clean and dry with brakleen, and use JB Weld to seal the case on the exterior.

No problem with tranny fluid compatible UV dye.

HTH

Cheef
 

jjdrewski

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Thanks Transman and Cheef. I was successful sealing the test plug with Locktite for assembled parts. You gave me the confidence to give it a little more torque. just needed a little help. However--there's always a however on this old dodge--now that the area is cleaned off from the plug's splashback, I find that the new differential pan is leaking at the very bottom edge. As this is not a bench repair, there was some fluid left in the diff case when I put the new cover and Felpro gasket on. Retorqueing doesn't help. I will try the MOPAR transmission RTV . Are there any tricks I can use to dry out the diff case before trying a 3rd time? (yes 3rd time). Progress is slow due to daily rains, but I have time before car is needed back into sevice. Later. Thanks.
 

Cheef

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Gaskets will not generally work on any MoPar front wheel drive application transaxle. The bolt holes were spaced for RTV. Pull the leaky cover. Use brakleen to de-grease the mating surface on the housing. Smear a light coat of RTV on that surface. Rub a little extra on areas where the oil is dripping out until its sticks. Completely dry off the cover and put a nice 3/16 bead (or so) on the cover surface and around the bolt holes. Mush it on in place and snug the bolts. It'll seal. I promise.

Cheef
 

greasemonkey

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Make sure you clean rtv out of the bolt holes before you reassemble. If you don't you can strip out the treads in the bolt holes. A tap is the best tool to clean out the hole but you can use a pocket screwdriver or a small pick. If you do have stripped holes it is best the rethread them using a helicoil. HTH Greasemonkey :)
 

jjdrewski

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How can I go wrong with three old pros advising me? My son is getting the MOPAR ATF RTV from one of the few local remaining dealers. I will post progress when it happens. Probably in a new posting. Right now I'm in the middle of repainting my Daughters Contour hood which has totally failed clearcoat. That's a whole other story. Thanks.
 
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