Evap leak, amongst several other electrical codes

[Joeyturbo]

Make

Mazda

Model

3

Year

2010

Miles

100,000

Engine

2L

My friend just recently bought a 2010 Mazda 3 2.0L (manual). I scanned it with my bluedriver scan tool and I got a bunch of codes at once here. I'm curious as to whether or not something could be tripping all of these, or if it's going to need a butt ton of replacement parts.

Occasionally it'll have troubles starting, tested the battery with my multimeter and it read 12.35v after sitting for a couple of days. Starting up it gets to around 14v and stays there.

Any help or advice on what I should check next would be appreciated!

 

[grcauto]

I think you need a battery before going any further. How old?

 

[Joeyturbo]

I think you need a battery before going any further. How old?

I asked the woman we bought it off of, she said the battery hasn't been replaced in a while. (she barely knew anything her mechanic did to her car)

 

[grcauto]

Get a battery before trying to fix this. Battery may be the only problem.

 

[Joeyturbo]

FIXED! New battery, cleared codes, scanned again and PRESTO! Now on to the evap leak... Thanks for your help

 

[billr]

That surprises me! I don't understand how the voltages you reported (12.35V engine-off, 14V engine running) could cause any problem at all. Maybe you had a bad battery cable connection that got fixed when you replace the battery? Maybe you have a lot of AC ripple on the alternator output that is better masked by the fresh battery?

 

[Joeyturbo]

That surprises me! I don't understand how the voltages you reported (12.35V engine-off, 14V engine running) could cause any problem at all. Maybe you had a bad battery cable connection that got fixed when you replace the battery? Maybe you have a lot of AC ripple on the alternator output that is better masked by the fresh battery?

I'll be sure to test the alternator when I get a chance. I've still got front lower control arms and rear sway bar end links to do to get this thing certified. Currently making a smoke machine for the evap leak test. Tried a new gas cap, no luck there. Tried a new purge valve, also nothing.

 

[Joeyturbo]

Hey again, I made the smoke machine and there seems to be a leak near the passenger side rear coil spring. Any ideas of what I should be looking at?

 

[grcauto]

Didn't you look while it was smoking?

 

[Joeyturbo]

Didn't you look while it was smoking?

It wasn't really visible. It was a couple lines going up near the wheel well/gas tank. There was too much shit in the way for me to see exactly where it was leaking.

 

[billr]

All I can suggest is to keep on smokin' and lookin' or to remove the exhaust components in that area so you can examine them out where you can see.

Want a long-shot? Mix in some of the fluorescent dye used for refrigerant systems with whatever you are making the smoke with. Maybe enough dye will be carried through the leak to the outside for you to find later with a black-light. Be sure to view it with a UV light before you try the dye, to see what it looks like before. Many things tend to glow in that UV, not just dye.

 

[Joeyturbo]

All I can suggest is to keep on smokin' and lookin' or to remove the exhaust components in that area so you can examine them out where you can see.

Want a long-shot? Mix in some of the fluorescent dye used for refrigerant systems with whatever you are making the smoke with. Maybe enough dye will be carried through the leak to the outside for you to find later with a black-light. Be sure to view it with a UV light before you try the dye, to see what it looks like before. Many things tend to glow in that UV, not just dye.

Ummmmm, so I dropped the rear subframe and assumed it would be the vent valve... Nope. Turns out that it was right behind the wheel well, there's a hose that doesn't go to anything at all... Any ideas as to where that's supposed to go?

 

[billr]

Oops, for some reason I started thinking this was an exhaust leak, not evap; sorry.

The end of that hose has a very clean and square end; I think it is intended to be open like that. Great picture, by the way, I could zoom in on it well. My guess is that the hose goes up to a vent valve of some kind. Maybe even a seldom-used overpressure relief valve.

 

[Mobile Dan]

Yep, I agree with Bill, that hose just dangles.

 

[grcauto]

That hose is to the vent. The canister is in there and the seems will leak when they get old and bounce around. That or the plumbing. Either way you need to get to it and when you do you'll find the leak.