Bill they crack around the weld in the bottom of drum also check in inter splines for wear that why i said replace a mustI am going to a local Natpro trans supply house today to find out what they can do for parts. Otherwise, it will be WIT. I pored over online trans parts suppliers yesterday, and WIT is the one I settled on myself. They seem to have the best info and range of parts. The only reason I am looking at "local" is so we can start putting this back together today.
That "notched drum" is actually the Shell W/Sun Gear that is to the rear of the Reverse Drum; the two are coupled together by the (worn) notches on the Shell shown in the photo and tangs on the Reverse Drum (not shown). Those are both fairly expensive parts, even used, and I don't think that wear there is unusual or critical for that kind of coupling, so plan on re-using those. There is no broken snap-ring; the broken spring is a coil spring under the 1-2 Accumulator. I think I won't be able to get just a spring, only the whole accumulator "package", but that is only about $15 so not a problem.
So, my plan is to replace all the friction discs and bands, replace the direct steel discs, and replace the 1-2 modulator. I will, though, ask about a "loaded" direct drum that would come with the discs/piston/seals. If that isn't a reasonable option, then the direct drum looks fine to me and I have straightened the bent "spring plate" to near-perfection.
Again, I wish I had found a distinctly "broken" part in the direct clutch; but it does look badly "toasted" so maybe the seals look OK but are not. Obviously, they will get replaced along with all others; and I will air-check again before installing the VB!
I have no plans to disturb the VB or pump, except to replace the friction discs and seals in the IM clutch that is part of the pump assembly.
Is there any need to remove that tail extension? I plan on holding the trans case vertical (tail down) so that I can slip everything back in with as little dragging on the sides as possible.