getting expensive!!!

lutherfetch

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Wife has a 2004 Chevy 2500 Burb with the 6.0. 108k mi on it.

Been a pretty good truck... but suddenly, I got lots of new codes.

New codes include... CO237, PO332, PO650 and the ABS light.

I have NO check engine light. The gauges are jumping, and now the thing is shifting prematurely.

I have swapped the alternator (they go bad around 120k anyway... I considered it good insurance). I also replaced the instrument cluster due to the ABS light staying on and having no Check Engine light. The VSS shouldn't have anything to do with losing a check engine light. Sometimes the a/c decides it will work... sometimes it wont. Weird.

Well... I am $300 into this and have NOTHING to show for it. Same problems. I am growing HIGHLY suspicious I have a PCM problem. I did pick up an ACTRON CP9508A that I can take real readings with.

Before I spend a kajillion dollars on a PCM, I want to run this past the crew. Love you guys.

J
 

Gus

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When you turn your key to "ON"(do not attempt to start), does the CE light come on?

You thought an ABS problem would be fixed with an IPC?
 

nickb2

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Yeah Gus, I also thought the same thing. That is why I did not post on the C code.

@Op, the reason why Gus is asking if CE light comes on, is because PCM mesures signal voltage to the IPC. I hope you understand where we are going in this train of thought.

Forgive if I am wrong, but normally replacing a cluster involves a reflash. Especially on a GM!!! ;)

New codes include... CO237, PO332, PO650 and the ABS light.

2 codes relating to PCM, 1 relating to Body control unit(BCM) and also 1 relating to antilock. Three distinct different units.

This is smelling huge like a bad ground.
 

kev2

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does the CEL come on at bulb check?

I will look - my computer is at speed of stupid right now.... GTG

p0332 KS sensor...
P0650 vague CEL circuit issue
C0237 rear speed signsl-
 

kev2

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the VSS would effect shifting- early and hard shifts?

The CEL issue could be as simple as a bulb- you scan some p codes BUT no cel?

The KS - look at the info from nickB - loss of signal is common- the sensors rust and the connecting harness fails- there is a 5v referance voltage AND a variable AC input -

See if scanner will read the voltage on the KS
 

nickb2

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Document ID# 2037454


Subject: Special Coverage Adjustment-Instrument Panel Cluster Gauge Needle Functions #07187A - (11/08/2007)



Models: 2003-2004 CADILLAC ESCALADE, ESCALADE ESV, ESCALADE EXT

2003-2004 CHEVROLET AVALANCHE, SILVERADO, SUBURBAN, TAHOE

2003-2004 GMC SIERRA, YUKON, YUKON XL


THE SERVICE PROCEDURE IN THIS BULLETIN HAS BEEN REVISED. IN A SMALL NUMBER OF VEHICLES, THE GAUGE SWEEP TEST MAY NOT ALWAYS CONFIRM THE CONDITION. PLEASE REVIEW THE SERVICE PROCEDURE IMMEDIATELY.


DUE TO PART AVAILABILITY, THIS SPECIAL COVERAGE IS BEING ADMINISTERED IN PHASES. YOU WILL BE NOTIFIED AS EACH ADDITIONAL PHASE IS RELEASED.

CUSTOMERS ARE BEING INSTRUCTED TO CONTACT THE DEALERSHIP TO ARRANGE AN APPOINTMENT IF THEY BELIEVE THEIR VEHICLE HAS THIS CONDITION. THE CUSTOMER IS BEING ASKED TO PROVIDE THE VIN SO THE IPC CAN BE ORDERED IN ADVANCE OF THE SCHEDULED APPOINTMENT. THIS WILL ELIMINATE THE NEED TO KEEP THE VEHICLE OVERNIGHT. DEALERS ARE TO OBTAIN THE VEHICLE MILEAGE WHEN SCHEDULING A SERVICE APPOINTMENT. THE VEHICLE MILEAGE WILL BE REQUIRED WHEN PLACING AN ORDER FOR THE IPC.

Condition
Some customers of 2003-2004 model year Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, and Escalade EXT; Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, and Tahoe; and GMC Sierra, Yukon, and Yukon XL vehicles have reported that one or more of the instrument panel (IP) cluster gauges stick, flutter, or become inoperative. This may cause inaccurate readings, including the speedometer and fuel gauge.

Special Coverage Adjustment
This special coverage covers the condition described above for a period of 7 years or 70,000 miles (110,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership.

Dealers are to replace the instrument panel cluster after the condition has been verified. The repairs will be made at no charge to the customer.

For vehicles covered by Vehicle Service Contracts, all eligible claims with repair orders on or after September 28, 2007 are covered by this special coverage and must be submitted using the labor operation codes provided with this bulletin. Claims with repair orders prior to September 28, 2007, must be submitted to the Service Contract provider.

Vehicles Involved
Involved are certain 2003-2004 model year Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, and Escalade EXT; Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, and Tahoe; and GMC Sierra, Yukon, and Yukon XL vehicles built within the following VIN breakpoints:
 

nickb2

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@Kev2, I am looking at UFC fight night and really liking the fight. It is down in canada.

Can you correct me if I am wrong, but isn't there a way to check the KS sensor with a trusty old soldering gun. I think we talked about this years ago on this site, or maybe my memory is going to scrambles.

Here is a link that maybe I forgot, but somehow I think we did talk about this.

http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=96958&sid=c096fdccc0dbbb6e83ca2fff34a71124

This is not my writingWhat brand of sensors did you install, GM or aftermarket?

Did you check the wiring from the PCM to the jumper connector at the intake?
Those codes are for both again as you know, and with the sensors still showing codes, you need to check the rest of the wires. These each only use a single wire to the sensor and a ground through the block so check that wire. ce it worked before, and since you changed the sensor, I am 99% sure the issue is the wiring to that speed sensor. Can you inspect the wiring in its entirety, from the module to the plug. Check for any places it has become damaged or pinched. Repair anything you find. If you see nothing, then can you check the pins in the connector itself. Look inside the end and make sure the gap in there is very small if not closed. If there is a visible gap, then it may not be making proper contact with the pins in the mating end. If they are bad then replace the pigtail connector to fix this.


I do remember replacing a whole bunch of these, and also redoing wiring/connectors. Btw, wicked leg kicks, what a fight.
 

lutherfetch

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Thanks all. Haven't been able to read all the replies yet. Dealing with a death in the family right now. Will check back in next week when I get home. Really do appreciate everything you guys do.
 

NickD

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Hmmmm, me too, relatives and friends are biting the dust, wonder when my turn will be. Keep on hearing they are in a better place, but wonder if there is even a place at all. No one has come back to tell me.

With JP's post on the AC clutch that closed, yours could be wide open to give you your symptoms. Easy enough to check, like 20 mils for a gap, thumb fingernail is that thick.

Peace.
 

lutherfetch

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Ok, let me fill you in...

I have now changed out the PCM and the Instrument Cluster.

No, the Check Engine light will NOT come on. That is why I replaced the cluster thinking it was a bad bulb or something. It doesn't light, blink, or fart. Nothing. NO CE LIGHT... EVER. Not with this new cluster or the last. ALL the problems started simultaneously. I also am thinking bad wire or ground somewhere. Speaking of which, I went through and checked my towing harness wiring and grounds as these are the only thing that have ever been touched on the vehicle. I resoldered everything with no effect.

Yeah, I can swap out the VSS... but again, I am not buying that all these problems are independent... Let me post this before I lose my work and throw my laptop through the television set...
 

lutherfetch

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Here is the other question for you... I am reading the troubleshooting Nick posted. "test Mil control circuit" lovely. how? Test for short to ground at MIL. ok. how? repair the short to voltage at MIL. Great. How? It also mentions several times to check and replace the fuse to the MIL. Which one is it??? I have pulled ALL the fuses and haven't seen any that look bad. Havent gone through the relays yet... but I wouldn't be at all surprised if it is really something that simple (especially since I just replaced all the expensive stuff first!)
 

lutherfetch

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Anyway... this thing stinks to high hell of a bad ground. Where do I even start looking???
 

nickb2

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Thanx for reading, that info is crucial to getting her done. Give me a few to re-study the schematic, I love wiring diagrams, I just seem to get em real fast. Will post back more later on, will have my last coffee of the evening. No worries for you, we will help. BTW, hope all went ok for family. Chin up, we'll get it.

First, we need to know if cel/mil comes on at first bulb check. Does it light up?
 
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