Heater hose routing on new pulley system

briangearhead

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Oct 17, 2009
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Make
Chevy
Model
Camaro
Year
79
Miles
0
Engine
350
I have a 79 camaro and I bought a Serpentine conversion kit and the water pump has two spots where you could screw in heater hose fittings .. I'm wondering if it is possible to run my heater hoses just to the water pump .. I'm needing another spot on my intake for the temp sensor to run my electric fans and wasn't for sure if hooking the heater hoses to just the water pump would still work correctly ?
 

paulo57509

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Apr 9, 2014
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The water pump will work. The heater won't.

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You can install the fan switch in the cylinder head. There's a pipe plug between the cylinders 1-3 or 6-8 depending on what side of the engine you're looking at.
 

briangearhead

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I have a 79 camaro and I bought a Serpentine conversion kit and the water pump has two spots where you could screw in heater hose fittings .. I'm wondering if it is possible to run my heater hoses just to the water pump .. I'm needing another spot on my intake for the temp sensor to run my electric fans and wasn't for sure if hooking the heater hoses to just the water pump would still work correctly ?
 

briangearhead

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Yes I am aware of the plugs in the head . that was my original thought to put it .. Ive tried to get both plugs out , but no luck the engine is freshly painted so heating them up wasnt a option
. ive tried attaching photos but for some reason it wont up load .. I have a performer rpm intake .. I'm already using one port for my digital gauge temp sensor .. But my electric fans require another temp sensor .. If the heater hoses arent going to work I'll have to come up with another idea ..also this kit was a CVF serpentine kit .. I'll try again to up load some pics ... Thanks for the comments
 

billr

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Um, t-stat housings are available with two threaded ports, OEM on some '75-'86 Chevy vehicles...

PS: You can drill out the plugs in the heads and use a big screw-extractor. Usually, drilling the hole weakens the male thread enough that t comes out reasonably easy.
 

briangearhead

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Um, t-stat housings are available with two threaded ports, OEM on some '75-'86 Chevy vehicles...

PS: You can drill out the plugs in the heads and use a big screw-extractor. Usually, drilling the hole weakens the male thread enough that t comes out reasonably easy.
Well basically what ive got is a restomod thats been a 5yr project so far ,just last week I finally painted it . putting things back together and tring to keep it clean looking as possible I know what your talking about with the thermostat housings but I had to go with an aftermarket adjustable water neck since I put a bigger aluminum radiator in it .. I was really looking for an easy fix to my problem since ive already got headers on and new inner fender wells installed .. Less chance of scratching paint .. But its looking like I'll have to pull atleast one of the headers back off to get one of the plugs out of the head .. Probably my best option .. Thanks again for the input always helps to have others ideas and opinions ..
 

billr

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Not what I call "clean looking", more of a "scab-on" patch!
 

briangearhead

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Not what I call "clean looking", more of a "scab-on" patch!
Well being I'm putting a vintage air a/c unit in the car the heater hoses and a/c hoses all run up in the fender well through where the old blower motor would go .. There for it wont be seen at all .. Not like a bunch of probes sticking out of the water neck right in the middle of the motor ! Yeah I would call that clean !
 

briangearhead

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Well being I'm putting a vintage air a/c unit in the car the heater hoses and a/c hoses all run up in the fender well through where the old blower motor would go .. There for it wont be seen at all .. Not like a bunch of probes sticking out of the water neck right in the middle of the motor ! Yeah I would call that clean !
 

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nickb2

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Location
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My $.02 if you will,

I love dans Idea, but I prefer having a temp reading at heads or as close to that as possible.

I have seen this before, on the net, wondering if is something you could use to really hide shyte and keep it clean. Check it out.


That way, maybe you can prevent what Billr was referencing to if you really want that clean look. Bonus, no need to remove header to get to a head plug, your right at the spark plug. Formula 1 uses same tech, should work fine for this and you can run the stainless braiding around to fit the resto mod look.
 
Last edited:

nickb2

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Here is another idea I used in my old 84 gt stang.

I also went for electric fans. (used honda fan assembly, and this wasnt a eye opener, it was a quarter mile car driven daily so I didnt give a shyte about looks) but I used a thermo temp sensor off of a old nippon car and pasted that upside down of the thermostat neck and ran wires through loomex. so the edlebrock intake had a shiny t stat housing.

Took thermal readings, glue took a few degrees off, compensated that in my head. It basically told the fans I am at close to boiling, go full on.

So that was a good idea, but for what you want, that other version of the thermo couple looks real interesting for your application.

Give me some feed back if you like the idea, and if so, how it works out, or if no, why this would not work on this resto mod, that way I will relay that to a few of my buddies who are also into this stuff.

I retired my quater mile cars when my son was born, that is almost 18 yrs now. Drive toys now, cheaper on gas. ;)

I think also lowring the rez on your phone may help to fit the sites limit regarding uploading pics.

I would love to see the engine bay. and the rest for that fact. Great project Brian, cant wait to hear more.
 
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