Horizontal seat motor replacement

ChevyDude

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
Messages
210
Points
18
Make
Honda
Model
Accord EXL
Year
2011
Miles
246K
Engine
4cyl
I think I am going to tackle the replacement of the seat motor, drivers front. Anyone happen to have the procedure handy?

Much appreciated.

Chevydude
 

NickD

wrench
Joined
Aug 28, 2007
Messages
5,123
Points
48
With a Chevy Cruze only two torx screws at the rear of the front seats held the runners down, had to move the drivers seat far forward use the correct size torx bit in an impact wrench, because you needed a lot of down force, and exactly perpendicular or you will strip the inside of the torx bolts out and never get them out.

Isn't your Honda using four metric size bolts, not nearly a problem, thread are usually exposed underneath, PB Blaster helps if driving on road salt. Tipping the seat back lets you disconnect the electrical connectors, but what is the problem, is the motor brushes burnt out, or could be a seat adjustment switch, or even a broken power wire.

Had to remove seats for other reasons, like a power window refused to go back up at an Illinois toll booth in a Lincoln Continental had major thunderstorms all the way back. Removing all the seats is the only way to remove the carpet to dry it out.

Also had a stupid idea of bending the door into the roof for more head room. but if you opened the door, rain would get into the window switches to corrode them. After I got it all fixed up and looking nice, selling it was the best solution.
 

ChevyDude

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
Messages
210
Points
18
With a Chevy Cruze only two torx screws at the rear of the front seats held the runners down, had to move the drivers seat far forward use the correct size torx bit in an impact wrench, because you needed a lot of down force, and exactly perpendicular or you will strip the inside of the torx bolts out and never get them out.

Isn't your Honda using four metric size bolts, not nearly a problem, thread are usually exposed underneath, PB Blaster helps if driving on road salt. Tipping the seat back lets you disconnect the electrical connectors, but what is the problem, is the motor brushes burnt out, or could be a seat adjustment switch, or even a broken power wire.

Had to remove seats for other reasons, like a power window refused to go back up at an Illinois toll booth in a Lincoln Continental had major thunderstorms all the way back. Removing all the seats is the only way to remove the carpet to dry it out.

Also had a stupid idea of bending the door into the roof for more head room. but if you opened the door, rain would get into the window switches to corrode them. After I got it all fixed up and looking nice, selling it was the best solution.
Thanks for the info. Seems the motor is the problem as I was able to remove the motor and plug it in and it runs free for a short few seconds and then stops. I have a new one on order from the dealership, comes in today. There is a bracket that holds the various components (motor, grommet, flexible tube and cable, etc.). It's a slight trick to reassemble everything onto the bracket and reinstall. That is mainly the info I am searching.

Thanks again
 

NickD

wrench
Joined
Aug 28, 2007
Messages
5,123
Points
48
Memory problems for reassembly? Take several photos first.
Ha, heard they have digital cameras now so don't have to wait a week for photo processing. Also have fast acting circuit breakers that could be the problem.
 

ChevyDude

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
Messages
210
Points
18
Got er done, fixed!!!! Wasn't a bad job in all. The motor and linkage is fitted onto the cross plate and must all be removed and assembled with the new motor. If an idiot like myself can do it anyone can. :)
 
Top