HVAC vacuum diagram for a 2006 E350 Super Duty Van

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#31
Jd and nickb2 my hat is off to both of you for your words and service.
As far as the project, Advance checked their back room for a check Valve but didn't stock one
Is there a need for me to use a two way check Valve, rather than a one way valve?
 

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#32
I don't like the "two way" terminology. This "one way"
and this "two way"
are BOTH a One-Way Valve. First valve is Dorman 47149 and the second is Dorman 47150, the one I used in this pic

The 47150 is simply a One-Way (Check) Valve and a Tee in One Piece. I also liked the way the hose sizes ( Inlet was a good fit to the RED like from the Engine, and the two Outlets were a good fit to the 5/32" rubber vacuum hose used in the repair) fit, AND the Tee straight one way and 90-degrees the other way. Inlet was a good fit to RED. Outlet to the left in the photo is connected to the OEM fitting on the BLACK that led into the problem inside HVAC. Used a ZIP tie to tighten that fit. Outlet pointing up and left leads to the ACME tank, pictured earlier.

A valve like the 47149 I pictured will work fine. You would also use a TEE as shown in your revision to the vacuum diagram.

Dorman also has an ACME with a Check Valve behind one port and then connects to the HVAC controls with a second port. 47076
Serves as Check Valve, Reservoir and Tee all in one. You can see both fittings. I didn't want that and doubt you would either. Once that ACME is buried in one of the few places it fits, we don't want to risk having to pull it just to change a check valve. The way we're doing this fix, only one vacuum attachment is out of reach. Less $ though. This guy is $13 Amazon Prime to your door in 2 days! Just don't order the one below it that's $40 plus $5 shipping!
 
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#33
I was driving by another Advance and they had both check valves on the pegs so I bought the 47149. I decided to drill a dedicated hole in the firewall above where the cable for the hood release goes through the firewall . My concern is the hole I drilled has sharp edges. It is double thick metal and I can't find a grommet that has a wide enough center grove. 1/16" grove is all I can find. Any good ideas out there? Maybe some type of bushing? Nothing is connected yet. ACME is still not activated.
 

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#34
File the edges of the hole a little if you can. Or, if you have a Countersink Bit, use that to knock the sharp edges off. There are also little abrasive "bits" you could use in your drill...
I'm a big fan of
Black Electrical Tape (Harbor Fright in this case). Just wrap-wrap-wrap till the wraps taper to a tight fit in the hole. Wiggle the wrapped part in till it's about halfway through.
 
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#36
jd....your reply #32 was very well done! :cool:
You just made me think of my dremell tool. I have a couple tapered stone bits that would be handy to take off the burrs.
And I also like the electrical tape idea. But I only use automotive grade tape. That's really because the cheap stuff melts in the garage in Florida after a couple months and is unusable.
 

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#37
How big is your drilled hole? If all you had was a 1/2" bit to run vacuum hose through, you could force a short piece of fuel hose into that hole. Then that hose is your grommet for the smaller one.

So far I've been very pleased with HF's black tape. Maybe a bright spot in their product offerings. Next chance I get I'll buy a roll of "good stuff" somewhere and see if I notice a difference.
 
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#38
Other than air, dust, noise, fumes, I would have no concern about running a rubber vacuum hose through a sheet metal hole. No real pressure, fluid, electricity, movement happening there to be a concern. I would just wrap it with tape to get a good fit, as jd suggested. I get my tape at the Harbor. It is not 3M quality, but it is good enough for Kentucky.
 
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#39
The hole I drilled is about 3/8" so I think I'll go with the electrical tape. BTW I do shop at Harbor Freight. Save a lot of money on occasional use tools.
Also where is the best place to tap into the dash selector control. At the control, or maybe cut the line coming out of the box and connect with line going up to the control?
 

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#40
Look at the photo in Reply#22. To the left of the silver recirc servo, the WHITE line that supplies it goes up to the Control Valve (mode select knob). Before I cut it, the BLACK that supplies the Control Valve was paired with it. I'm glad I put ACME on the passenger side and ran my bypass hose down the passenger side, because I could cut the BLACK line where the photo in #22 shows about 3" of it coming out of the HVAC.

So, IF you're coming over from the Driver Side, I'd say try and fish across behind the instrument panel and above the doghouse cutoff in the firewall. Won't be easy, but in my opinion pretty much anything beats taking that bezel off and still having to get to the back of the Control Valve. Then tap in somewhere like I did. Find the Servo and you'll see the WHITE and BLACK lines coming down. WHITE to Servo and BLACK to that corner of the HVAC that I show in #22. Cut in anywhere along that and connect to the end going UP. You don't have to cap the HVAC end because you already disconnected it where it joined RED under the hood.
 

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#41
Let me add this: Since the vacuum supply TO the Controls enters the cabin from the Right, there's no access to that BLACK supply line anywhere to the Left of that Mode Knob. If you're bringing your new vacuum source into the driver side, you're going to have to get all the way across. Since you'll have to go across, I think it's a good idea to run across and down, into the passenger foot well area, so you aren't disturbing the instrument panel bezel and the vacuum manifold on the back of the Control. Also the repair is easily accessible in the future.
 
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#43
Fixed! Well guys all hooked up and working great. Jd I hope you don't mind that I used your ACME idea. If you look close you will see that I put the TM on it in your honor. I ran 3/16" vacuum line from the red line under the hood to the "t" and then through to the ACME bomb. From the "t" to
selector switch I ran a 1/8" vacuum line
My new line connects with the red line on the passenger side, runs over to the drivers side under hood, to the "t", then to the ACME going one direction and through the firewall the other direction , over the dog house hump (in the dash) to the black supply line on the passenger side.
 

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#44
Congratulations! Be cool now, and Enjoy! ACME!!! I love it (and so does Mrs.)! The ACME Legend Lives ON!!!