Intermittent shift engagement issue 1999 Ford F-150

briandd

Newbie
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Mar 30, 2022
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Make
Ford
Model
F-150
Year
1999
Miles
251,000
Engine
5.4L
1999 Ford F-150 5.4L - 251K
Intermittent shift engagement issue. Shifter moves to each position, but does not always engage into gear. There is no sound, just no engagement. I never rev the engine when it is shifted and not engaged. When there is no engagement, I have to try multiple times before it will finally go into gear. This may take 5-30 minutes. Many times it seems that turning off the truck, waiting, and then turn back on and try shifting is when it will go into gear. But this is not always the case, and definitely not right away. Once the gear is engaged, the truck runs and shifts normally, even under heavy load, and at all speeds. Just don't turn off the truck or the issue may reoccur.

In December 2021 the transmission was looked at by a shop. They pulled the transmission valve body to check for a stuck valve. Just slightly sticky, so massaged them to loosen. Pan was clean with no metal. No codes. No apparent external issues. Replaced filter and fluid. The issue used to occur more infrequently, but seems to have gotten a little worse since the shop and now occurs more regularly.

Have looked for patterns on how to get gear to engage, and some worked for a while, but then not always.
Two things have been consistently true:
1) It has always gone into gear after first start of the day. It is also usually parked on a slight downhill, but don't think that has any impact. After picking up from the shop and the first start of the day, it went into gear. But just one mile down the street I stopped at a store, and when I returned it would not go into gear for a while.
2) Once the truck has started and engaged, as long as the truck continues to run, regardless of gear, it will shift gears. So, like going into a store, if someone stays with the vehicle while it continues to run, all is good.

Transmission was first replaced with a factory rebuild at about 116K miles (I purchased the vehicle at 25K). It is not the primary vehicle and sometimes sits for a while without usage.

Been told it needs a rebuild, but I'm not convinced based on all other functionality. Any ideas what would cause this behavior, or if I really need to spend that kind of $$ for a rebuild?
 

bp042665

transmission guy
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first off did the shop ever get it to acted up when they had it ? second if so did they check for power to the solenoids ? if this has a 4R70W the input drum has a bad issue of cracking at the snap ring groove when you first start the truck with cold fluid it will apply and hold until you shut it off . i had 1 that drove me nuts it had about 4000. miles on it after i built it pulled transmission out and found that drum was cracked at snap ring
 

briandd

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Yes it did act up for them, but I don't know if they checked for power at the solenoids. I believe it is the 4R70W. If that's the case, does that mean a transmission rebuild is needed? If there is a crack, would that cause a visible leak?
 

billr

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A cracked drum would not cause an external (visible) leak. Yes, a cracked drum would require rebuilding the trans. Wait for BP to advise further tomorrow morning; let's see if there are other things you can do (like air-checks) before condemning the trans.
 

bp042665

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yes billr there is a air test but it has to be hot also they need that air test plate but if they dont have the plate it will need to be pulled out and tore down that's what i had to do. it didnt show up under the air test i had totear it down and air test it to see it open up wasn't a big crack yet
 

briandd

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Would it be more economical to have the transmission rebuilt, or buy a used/rebuilt transmission and have someone swap them? In the later, does my current transmission as-is have much value?
 

bp042665

transmission guy
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well now with the way part's have been going up i'm not sure but rebuild is better the used if your keeping the truck
 

grcauto

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Your valve body should have been rebuilt. If you could tell that a valve was sticky why not take it apart and hone the bores?
 

briandd

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I don't know. Evidently, the shop didn't think they were very sticky enough to do that.
 

billr

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Have you confirmed this is a 4R70W trans? If so, I have been able to do the air-checks without a special plate. It takes a little bit of fab work, but just blocks of wood could be used for the material. Any shop or experienced/skilled DIYer should be able to accomplish it. Then you would know for sure that the trans has to be replaced/repaired; that it wasn't just a VB or electrical problem.

BP, is the drum you are suspecting the same as I had go bad, way to the rear of the trans case. or is this a different one? I guess I am asking: are there two known problem areas with that (4R70W) trans? More than two??? How should that trans behave if the main electrical harness is disconnected, should it reliably get P, N, R, and one forward gear? Would having the OP drive it like that (harness disconnected) tell us anything?

BP, I recall readings that there are two styles of electrical harnesses inside the trans, one mostly wires, and one a molded unit; and that the "wires" one was prone to failures. Any truth to that, and hope this is just an electrical problem?
 

bp042665

transmission guy
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Hey Billr the drum i am taking about is the forward not the direct like you had Also if the electrical harness is unpluged you would only have 1 gear forward and reverse also yes the internal wire harnes had a big problem but it would still engage just shift stupid
 
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