loss of power steering and spedometer

eddieguy

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#1
Make
chevy
Model
malibu max LS
Year
2005
Miles
155,500
Engine
3.5
I got a loss of power steering and speedometer. I don't know if cold frigid temps can have an effect on these things but when I went to get in my car and drive it, feels like I lost power steering and my speedometer stays on zero with no reading. the words power steering or maybe just steering even appear on dash when I turned ignition off and back on. this is a sudden situation with both and just came about after sitting over the weekend in frigid temps. can really cold temps cause this is my question because they were working fine when I last drove it . it sat from sat morn 7am to 9:30 pm followingt mon eve. I think my power steering is of the electric type that does not use power steering fluid.
 

eddieguy

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#2
also would like to know if the loss of power steering can lead to the steering being totally locked out or will it just leave me with manual steering without power assist
 
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#3
IIRC this is EPS, or electric power steering. I will get a diagram ASAP, try to get the fuse location to start,

Now the Speedo, for sure there would be a code for that....
The freezing temps, hoping for a quick return to normal before a scanner is needed have you idled the vehicle at all as you waited for it to warm up?

I am confident that it will default to a manual steering BUT if I am correct its EPS I would advise against operation other than to garage or where you intend to rtepair.

Post back when I get wiring diagram....
 
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#4
EPS. ON THE HUNT FOR SPEEDO DIA- i BELIEVE ITS ALSO A BCM CIRCUIT.
 

eddieguy

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IIRC this is EPS, or electric power steering. I will get a diagram ASAP, try to get the fuse location to start,

Now the Speedo, for sure there would be a code for that....
The freezing temps, hoping for a quick return to normal before a scanner is needed have you idled the vehicle at all as you waited for it to warm up?

I am confident that it will default to a manual steering BUT if I am correct its EPS I would advise against operation other than to garage or where you intend to rtepair.

Post back when I get wiring diagram....
. Kev when you state you would advise against driving without power steering working is it because it somehow harms the already non working power assist somehow?
 

eddieguy

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#7
I have to plead ignorance here but I did locate the fuse for eps at the top end of my fuse box eps is stamped in the plastic on end of fuse box. I'm guessing I need to remove the two wires that are bolted to get actual access to it? I will try to supply pic 80 amp don't know if the letters eps that are stamped in plastic are visible in pic
 

eddieguy

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#8
problem :fixed: I took it to the chevy dealership and as it turns out they said a mouse had chewed through some wiring and so for $200 smackers I am shifting good, speedometer works again and I even got my power steering back. I had told them to try putting a new vss on it hoping that would fix the problem and that would have been a $ 125. I gotta tip my hat to em because they could of done what I asked and just said that didn't work and bilk me for some money but they didn't.
 
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#9
Lost EPS on my 2012 Chevy with less than a 1K mile on it, glad my tiny wife wasn't driving, she could not control it, took a lot of power to turn that wheel. EPA pushed this on us, to save the wrecking yards from recycling a couple pints of PS fluid, warranties are far greater than advertised. Only repair is to replace it. Also tried to push electric brakes on us to save recycling a pint of brake fluid, we could not do this, but I wonder why they are not picking on over a gallon of engine oil or several gallons of AT fluid.

Seems like in your case would have to sue that mouse, also had this problems by leaving vehicles outdoors.

Vss is nothing more than a cylinder permanent magnet with a few turns of magnet wire on it, retail is around ten bucks and super easy to replace. Better ones have silastic coating on that fine magnet wire that is dipped in epoxy, without that coating, thermal expansion on that wire will break it, simple ohmmeter tells if it is good or bad. New ones retail for about ten bucks, so going from a manufacturing cost of 57 cents to 200 bucks!

Ha, don't blame engineers, blame bean counters.