My 2001 dodge ram

[TakeittotheMax]

Please fill out the following to ask a question.

MAKEodge
MODEL:Ram
YEAR:2001
MILES:152000
ENGINE:5.9l
DESCRIBE ISSUE...engine fails to start after warm up, but starts again after cooling off.

 

[billr]

I assume it does still crank when warmed up, correct?

 

[JackC]

Have you scanned for codes?

 

[TakeittotheMax]

I assume it does still crank when warmed up, correct?

Yes, it cranks normally but doesn't start when warm.

 

[TakeittotheMax]

Have you scanned for codes?

I will scan for codes today. Now that you mention it, the check engine light has been on and off lately.

 

[TakeittotheMax]

Well,I have 2 stored codes ; PO340, and PO123 Also a current code ;PO138 Darn thing is falling to pieces on me!
If the camshaft position sensor needs changing, where is it?

 

[nickb2]

The most probable cause of your starting and stalling would be the TPS code you got. Address that first, Your other code p0138 is a O2 sensor short to voltage which also is not a good thing, and the Cam position sensor code is saying PCM is getting no cam signal. So all of these three codes in junction could cause any of this.

If you want, post back if you want the flow charts for these three codes. I would not suggest throwing parts at this car yet, cuz when multiple code arrive at same time like this, it could be a harness issue, and no amount of new cam or TPS and O2 sensor will fix this. I suggest some pin testing first. You may just find a gad ground wire or a chewed harness, some irish green shyte in the PDC box etc.

Start checking connectors at the PCM to see if any wiring or connectors are in obvious disrepair.

 

[nickb2]

All three of these sensor get signal, 5v reference and ground via the PCM. I hope you are getting my drift.

 

[TakeittotheMax]

The most probable cause of your starting and stalling would be the TPS code you got. Address that first, Your other code p0138 is a O2 sensor short to voltage which also is not a good thing, and the Cam position sensor code is saying PCM is getting no cam signal. So all of these three codes in junction could cause any of this.

If you want, post back if you want the flow charts for these three codes. I would not suggest throwing parts at this car yet, cuz when multiple code arrive at same time like this, it could be a harness issue, and no amount of new cam or TPS and O2 sensor will fix this. I suggest some pin testing first. You may just find a gad ground wire or a chewed harness, some irish green shyte in the PDC box etc.

Start checking connectors at the PCM to see if any wiring or connectors are in obvious disrepair.

Thanks for advice. I can check continuity and reference voltages after looking for obvious problems at PCM. Never worked from a flow chart though. I'll bet they make troubleshooting easier. Could you post them?

 

[nickb2]

Here they are. They are white on black, for some reason my virtual printer has never let convert these types of files in normal format, but they are readable. But cost alot to print. If you get my drift. But with a laptop or tablet/phone, easier to bring to the truck and use as a reference than a bunch of pages. Simply download them and send to a tablet/phone or such and your good to go.

Included here are also snap shots of the affected sensors to help you trace the wires from sensor to pcm. Back probing here will be essential for the TPS. Just click on the snap shot to enlarge to a readable format.

 

[nickb2]

ACE 0 pdf is 123, ACE 1 is 138, ACE 2 is 340. If you can find a way to revert them back to black on white, go for it and print them. I just can't find a way for Bullzip virtual printer to that for me.

Seem it a common occurrence for bullzip users and the software is free. So sue me for being cheap.

 

[nickb2]

Most of the test in the flow charts can be done with a multimeter when asked to do so with the DRB oem scan tool. Most ppl don't have a OEM capable bi directional scanner, but they can be done with some agility and a good DVM. Sweeping the tps in back probe is quite alright, but I prefer to sweep them disconnected in OHM mode, allows for a better catch of the glitch of the tps when you sweep it. Look for a dead spot, but I may be getting ahead of myself. Just follow the flowcharts step by step.

You never know, you may find you have a hidden talent for diagnostics if you follow directions.

Most ppl get frustrated and throw parts at car just cuz they refuse to follow step by step instructions and then get flustered at the person giving instructions when dumping hundreds of dollars in parts a whine and rant etc instead of looking at themselves.

 

[nickb2]

Hope this helps, and if you need more advice, I pop in here quite often, but not so much as before as I am now back to work and swamped as usual.

Also, other wrenches here are quite generous of their time. Trust them also. Don't gripe, we won't respond well to that.

So in that regards, happy hunting, hoping you save time and more important, hard earned money.

 

[nickb2]

BTW, you will notice all the affected sensors can be pin tested at the C1 connector of the PCM to each individual sensor you need to test. SO I thought a picture of the pin locations of that connector would be helpful, so here it is.

Hint, if you study all the wiring's I provided, all three affected sensors use sensor ground pin 4 of connector C1 at pcm.

SO by disconnecting the C1 connector and each sensor, leave your neg lead of your DVM on pin 4 and then use your pos lead to check each senor ground of those sensor connectors. If you do that first, you just may have found why all three are coding at once, you are basically looking at a bad sensor ground wire or bad, corroded pin 4 or possibly a bad PCM which will no longer ground itself. I am not saying all three sensor failed at once, but highly unlikely, so this is a logical first step to take, and it is free and easy to do. However, I doubt the PCM would be the issue, as many more sensors share this same sensor ground, but they do splice off at some point to share within the harness, so wiggle testing the harness and observing the DVM on each sensor would be helpful in spotting a bad wire, split, intermittent in the main harness.

Also another hint, if you read the possible causes of each flow chart, all three mention open sensor ground circuit.

 

[nickb2]

I took alot of time and effort to research this for you, so you owe me an imaginary beer. or three. So if ever you get it fixed with my advice, plz donate to the site a dollar or two, it keeps us rolling to help you in the future. If you don't, we don't care, it is a non profit site. We are here only to help others. My main profit is hearing my advice helped someone else out in this hard economy where easy made cash is only on wall street. Unless your a 1%er in a different sort of club.

Anyone see the new tv movie "the wizard of lies" with Robert De nNiro?

http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1933667/