need advice again, this time is on what car should I buy?

[nickb2]

I have a bit of good rock guard in a can. Some rhino stuff I found for a buddy of mine to do his bed before putting in a plastic thing over it. I will tape around the section that goes to steel and beyond at bit to make sure it seal right.

That way that dor sill is ding to heck is beyond me. I have had cars for decades. 30 to be somewhat precis, and have never done that to a car. Only time I see damage like that, f me boots or stilletos.

 

[NickD]

One of my favorite cars over the years was a 1941 Buick, did have a radio and a heater. First car I ever had with sealed beam headlights, could finally see the road at night, this is becoming history now because the latest headlights are just like the 40's cars with a double reflection using a light bulb behind the lens.

Also had Saginaw steering, all ball bearing, practically like power steering, very comfortable ride, long wheel base, and with that straight 8, would easily to over 100 mph. Bendix brakes were also good. Plenty of nickel in the steel, rust free.

Dey don't make em like dis anymore.

It wasn't a good idea to drive these things into a brick wall because of that all steel dash, so was a good idea not to do this, but somehow people became very stupid. When you got out, had to take the ignition key out, but had to turn it off first and remember to put on the parking brake and switch off the headlamps if on.

Did have a full size spare and a bumper jack, heard a rumor, bumper jacks don't work on plastic, is this true?

 

[nickb2]

ok, now the car is starting to piss me off.

Its is not reponsive, and the clutch stuck this morning, had to wait for warm up, then it gave.

F this, I am getting this pos on lift and giving it some liquid oil in that gear box. That six speed is wonkky.


It only responds right after a good haul at 4grand for a good while, all along, while your beating the shyte of the box, it wont unfreeze.

S option, my arse.

 

[nickb2]

if I have to endure cold weather shyte on this gear box, car aint worth it.

Hope prolab will be a good solution to me liking this car.

Next, just throw some brakes on it and maybe a clutch this summer, feel this winter is gonna be a bugger, dont like the manual on this in winter, prefer the russian style lada approach the the 5 speed in the echo

 

[nickb2]

TS-PRO 75W90 - 100% synthetic lubricant for gearboxes - Prolab Technolub Inc.

100% synthetic lubricant for gearboxes with antifriction treatment - Prolab Technolub Inc.

www.prolab-technologies.com

This one should arrive this week. We will see

Apart from that, car sucks at gas mileage cuz I probably new sparks plugs. I bought this thing in sept. I only put tires on it. Nothing else. Just wanted to see.

Like I wrote in first post. Kind of give it a review. Well. officially, like all the others said, the six speed does suck

 

[billr]

Did you see this warning?

"The TS-PRO 75W90 100% synthetic lubricant with antifriction treatment for gearboxes can be incompatible with some yellow metals (copper-zinc alloy, copper, etc.) depending on operating temperatures."

I hope you don't have brass syncro rings in there...

 

[nickb2]

I just saw the gl4 mention billr.

The corrola six speed say gl4 or better 75w grade oil.

I am pretty sure there is bras in any modern gear box. Royal purples gl4 75w90 says it is safe on yellow.

Maybe I will see if I can get some of that to work. It is not local oil for me. The prolab came through my local napa. They just didnt have any in hand, had it in a warehouse somewhere.

Max Gear 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil

Max Gear 75W-90 is an ultra-tough, non-corrosive, high performance automotive hypoid gear oil to provide maximum protection to heavily loaded gears.

royalpurpledirect.com

 

[nickb2]

so thx for seeing that mention for me, I didnt get that far. I just saw gl4 rating and said good to go.

I just dont want to use the barel oil at work and dont want to pay a fortune on toyota oil I am probably not liking right now. I just want a thinner oil at extreme low temps like today.

I hate that crunch feeling when I shift. I will probably squirt some some lube on the fork and on input shaft. Easy to do once the slave is removed. Can remove fork boot and see in there pretty good with a camera
That will help with the sticky clutch. The full syn gear oil will do nothing for that. Just some silicone or something similar spray.

Anyway, gotta go work. On lunch break tommorow, should find a oil that is not corrosive and do my oil change while eating a samwitch.

Again, thx bill for catching that.

 

[jigfeett]

These newer, cars are so finicky, and trans are more problems than ever.
Does the oem recommend a lower weight for cold areas like yours?

 

[nickb2]

pro demand says toy mt LV oil or equivalent API GL4 sae 75w.

I have not consulted the book in my glove box. But pretty sure it will say the same.

The only mention of if using different oil than toy, may have shift difference etc.

Anyway, I think world pack has some 75 moly in pints. I need 2.5l and just checked amazon. WTF! 50.32$ cad!! per pint


I see tomorrow. No way I am payin that for oil

 

[nickb2]

A buddy at work was asking, what is the additive that is corrosive in the gl5 and I could not answer. I dont know.

Maybe some friction modifier molecule etc. Yadayada. But after a while, I to want to know.

Any body know that question. What is in some gl5's that eats brass that gl4 doesnt have?


I am approaching this from a pc water cooling experiment I have going on right now. My pc is lquid cooled with dexcool green antifreeze

I made sure it said it was aluminum compatible. Cuz the company said to not used different metals in a cooling loop to not cause corrosion of the cooling fins of the cpu for example.

SO ethylene and polypropylene are different in nature, one is safe for aluminum, the other one not. SO far, my pc shows no sign of fading, and the coolant is still bright neon green.

I guess this is what is going on with these very similar oils.

 

[billr]

Just rambling here, ignore if it makes no sense to you:

Is this a trans only, or does it share fluid with a diff (transaxle)?

Some manual transmissions use ATF, and I think those often have paper friction surfaces on steel syncros. My "90s Saturns are like this, I think, but certainly not a new thing. The first time I heard of using ATF in a manual trans was in a '65 Dodge PU.

Here, Red Line is the common "premium" synthetic; they are located about 20 miles from me. Email both RP and RL, see what they have to say about all this.

have read online varying claims about green vs orange Dex, and how they affect aluminum. Personally, I have never seen any problem with either green or orange. but use the "universal" Prestone pissy-yellow simply because it is readily available at good price.

Is this bad shifting peculiar to that type trans, or only a problem with your trans?

Why not try some standard ( and cheap) gear lube, see how it works? Worst case, you can change it out again and consider it was a "flushing" fluid to clean out the trans.

 

[nickb2]

Yeah, I didnt get around that today, boss had us finish early for pats on back from a distance and gave out coffee mugs with 200$ in it..

Now I have the cash to buy that 53$ a pint liquid moly stuff on amazon.

No, I wont spend my christmas bonus on that..

I cant see my family this year, we come from two different red zones. My gf, same.

So just her an I. I will use bonus to make a good chirstmas dinner for two.