New clutch no 5th or hard shift

Tkessler999

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Make
Isuzu
Model
Rodeo
Year
2000
Miles
200k
Engine
3.2l v6
2000 isuzu rodeo 3.2l v6 hydralic clutch.
So just installed new clutch 1st 2nd 3rd 4th gears fine to start but after I shift to 5th gear which is kinda hard and mushy feeling I can't shift to either 3rd or 4th and sometime reverse.
After I stop 1st through 4th work again and the problem starts again
Any ideas what I screwed up?
 

billr

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What are the symptoms that caused the clutch to be replaced? What clutch parts were replaced, disc only, or disc, pressure-plate, flywheel, throw-out bearing, etc?

I suppose I should also ask... what brand and P/N parts did you use?
 
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Mobile Dan

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Is it possible that this is a new problem with the shift lever due to the fact that the transmission was removed/installed?

Could this be a problem with "borderline low" fluid or air bubbles in the system?
 

Tkessler999

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What are the symptoms that caused the clutch to be replaced? What clutch parts were replaced, disc only, or disc, pressure-plate, flywheel, throw-out bearing, etc?

I suppose I should also ask... what brand and P/N parts did you use?
The clutch was replaced because the throw out bearing broke. I replaced disc pressure plate bearing and pilot bearing. I'll have to get back to you on the brand and part numbers of the clutch kit
 

Tkessler999

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Is it possible that this is a new problem with the shift lever due to the fact that the transmission was removed/installed?

Could this be a problem with "borderline low" fluid or air bubbles in the system?
I don't know about shift lever problems it doesn't seem like it. As far as hydralic clutch it was bled well I believe. There is a possibility the oil in the tranny might be low. I'm gonna check that now
 

billr

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I'm asking my expert friends here: Is there a spec and procedure for checking the stroke of the slave cylinder of this vehicle?

By "broke", do you mean the throw-out bearing was in several pieces? Post pictures if you still have it, otherwise describe the failure in more detail.

Check end-play on the crank. You don't need to be very accurate; we just need to be sure it is more like .010" than .100"
 
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Tkessler999

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I'm asking my expert friends here: Is there a spec and procedure for checking the stroke of the slave cylinder of this vehicle?

By "broke", do you mean the throw-out bearing was in several pieces? Post pictures if you still have it, otherwise describe the failure in more detail.

Check end-play on the crank. You don't need to be very accurate; we just need to be sure it is more like .010" than .100"
The throw out bearing came apart into two pieces. I don't have it available but it was separated. Oh I also replaced the slave and master cylinders. I don't know what you mean by the end play on the crank
 

Tkessler999

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I'm asking my expert friends here: Is there a spec and procedure for checking the stroke of the slave cylinder of this vehicle?

By "broke", do you mean the throw-out bearing was in several pieces? Post pictures if you still have it, otherwise describe the failure in more detail.

Check end-play on the crank. You don't need to be very accurate; we just need to be sure it is more like .010" than .100"
Also it seems to me that I also lose reverse when I lose 3rd and 4th but when stopped if I muscle it into reverse then I get 1 -4 and lose 5th
 

Tkessler999

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I'm asking my expert friends here: Is there a spec and procedure for checking the stroke of the slave cylinder of this vehicle?

By "broke", do you mean the throw-out bearing was in several pieces? Post pictures if you still have it, otherwise describe the failure in more detail.

Check end-play on the crank. You don't need to be very accurate; we just need to be sure it is more like .010" than .100"
Oh correction, the throw out wasn't in two separate pieces but it was broke up enough that you could tell that it was two pieces not tight lije a new one. And the ball bearing came out. Hard for me to explain
 

billr

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So, some of the balls and maybe some of the ball-cage came out, is that correct?

"End-play" is how much the crank can be moved axially. Go to the accessory-drive (belt) end of the engine and pry between the belt pulley and a nearby frame member to shove the crank as far as possible into the engine. Then, pry between the back side of the pulley and the engine block/pan to pull the crank out of the engine. If everything is OK you will hardly see any motion, but will hear/feel a little "click". If you do not hear/feel the click, then you are not doing it right. All engines have some end-play, even when new. If that play is huge, like greater than 1/32", then you will surely find it.
 

Tkessler999

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So, some of the balls and maybe some of the ball-cage came out, is that correct?

"End-play" is how much the crank can be moved axially. Go to the accessory-drive (belt) end of the engine and pry between the belt pulley and a nearby frame member to shove the crank as far as possible into the engine. Then, pry between the back side of the pulley and the engine block/pan to pull the crank out of the engine. If everything is OK you will hardly see any motion, but will hear/feel a little "click". If you do not hear/feel the click, then you are not doing it right. All engines have some end-play, even when new. If that play is huge, like greater than 1/32", then you will surely find it.
Free play is minimal almost zero maybe .010 at most
 

billr

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Confirm: by "free play" you mean axial movement of the crank, by prying it at either the belt pulley or flywheel as I described?

I am used to clutch "free play" as being how much the clutch pedal will move before the throw-out bearing contacts the fingers of the pressure plate. With a hydraulic clutch that should always be near-zero; but is no indication of the crank end/free-play.
 

Tkessler999

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Confirm: by "free play" you mean axial movement of the crank, by prying it at either the belt pulley or flywheel as I described?

I am used to clutch "free play" as being how much the clutch pedal will move before the throw-out bearing contacts the fingers of the pressure plate. With a hydraulic clutch that should always be near-zero; but is no indication of the crank end/free-play.
No I pushed the crank pulley in then pried it out with only slightly detectable movement
 

billr

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OK, we need to wait for somebody to advise if there is a definitive test for the slave travel.

With the engine off, is the shifting normal in all the forward gears? Sometimes shifting into R will be iffy with the engine off because there is no syncro for R, but try R too and report what you get.
 

bp042665

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ok it sound's like we have air in the fluid still i use a vaccum bleeder at my shop but you might need to bleed it again if it still has a hang up it could be internal or you might take it to a shop and have them check it out
 
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