O2 Sensor, 2005 Lexus ES330

infj23

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MAKE: Lexus
MODEL: ES330
YEAR: 2005
MILES: 285,000
ENGINE
: V-6
DESCRIBE ISSUE....Code PO137 set. I cleared the code to see if it would come back. Code came back after a few hundred miles with PO136. Both point to O2 sensor Bank 1, Sensor 2. Using my alldata subscription, which I found confusing with 4 O2 sensors on this car and everywhere I looked used different terminology (some were Banks 1/2, others left/right), the best I can figure is the OEM part number is 8946733100. Is that right for the Bank 1, Sensor 2 oxygen sensor?
No performance issues, although I think I have lost some MPG recently.

Thanks to all!
Doc
 

nickb2

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This code means a heater circuit.

On your car, 4 O2 sensors is correct.

Bank 1 is always the cylinder #1 side. That can be identified by seeing which cylinder head is more forward than the other. S2 means aft of the catalytic converter.

B1 S1 is not a heated circuit the same as a S2. S2 is normally check by checking the 3 and 4 terminals. I could be wrong.

Have fun with your DVM. Any open/0 reading in any configuration means the heater is dead inside the sensor.
Here is what the connector should look like.

Screenshot (491).png
 
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nickb2

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Normal resistance should be somewhere in between 4 to 12 ohms of the heater circuit.

Be careful when using a universal HO2 sensor such as a Bosch type one.

OEM are more expensive, but are plug and play.

Be also carefull to not overheat the threads on the cat. You may ruin the threads.


The spec I listed above is a general, but if you do use a universal sensor, if the butt/special connector screw type connectors are not well made, you may have this code come back on you.

Here is a picture of those said connectors. They are the grey screw type. My french is preventing me from saying the proper form, so a picture is worth a thousand words.

UniversalKit2_Desktop.png
 

nickb2

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Ok, found the right term, they call them "smart link" connectors.

I have had good success with these bosch universal ones. Check it out with your local parts guy to see if they have them in stock.

This way, you can keep the OEM 4 pin connector (if not damaged) and just splice the 4 wires with the smart link system.
 

nickb2

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nickb2

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The oem one cost 215$. And yes that part# you saw seems correct.
The bosch ones or the walker ones sell for under 70$. When talking to the parts guy, you ask for bank 1 downstream sensor.
He will know what you mean if he has neurons in his brains.
 

infj23

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:fixed:
Thanks nickb2 and kev2. With your help, and a good counter man, we identified the correct part. With all of the weird terminology (Banks, LH, RH, upstream, downstream, sensor 1, sensor 2) we nailed in on the first try.
Easiest O2 install ever. Ran the car up on my ramps and it was right there in plain sight and easy reach.
BTW the Denso part number for Bank 1, Sensor 2, for this car is 234-4064.
Popped it in and no codes. Drove about 30 miles today (3 starts) and running great.
Thanks for the help. And, nickb2, your English is as good as anyone's!
Doc
 

nickb2

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Awesome, thx for the fixed post.

BTW, how much was the denso part? Hope it was not to expensive. I know they are plug and play. Not the Bosch universals. But they are way cheap. I remember nippons denso's went close to 130-150$. They may have come down in price. I am just curious as to what YOU paid for yours.

Peace.
 

infj23

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Hello nickb2,
The part was US$89. It was an easy replacement.
I have another question. When this code set, the check engine light came on and the lights for Vehicle Stability Control and Traction Control also came on. Were these functions in my car really not operating because of a bad O2 sensor? Or do all of those lights come on to get your attention? Or is this not supposed to happen and my car is weird?

Thanks!
Doc
 

nickb2

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When this code set, the check engine light came on and the lights for Vehicle Stability Control and Traction Control also came on. Were these functions in my car really not operating because of a bad O2 sensor?
No, those are two completely different systems and do not interact with each other.

The O2 code you got is controlled and monitored by the ECM/PCM.

The VSC/TC light indicator is controlled and monitored by the EBCM (electronic brake control module) and the skid control ECU.

They may share a same ground point/splice somewhere, but very separate systems.

If the trac light keeps coming on, that will need to be investigated in another manner than a HO2 sensor code.

Hope that answered your question.

Nickb2.
 
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nickb2

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Depending on the options that came with the car, it could be the skid control ECU, YAW rate sensor, steering sensor, or a problem in the CAN communication system or the EBCM as said before.

These will normally generate U-codes. You need a good scanner to access those.

Here is an example of what I mean in the snapshots below.

Screenshot (498).png Screenshot (499).png Screenshot (500).png
 

infj23

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nickb2,
Thanks for the follow-up. I have had the car for about a year (it is FWD). Right after I got it, it set the code that meant bad gas cap. When the CEL came on for that, the VSC/TC lights came on as well. Recently, setting the O2 sensor code, all 3 lights (CEL, VSC, TC) came on again. These are the only times in a year, and 25,000 miles of driving, that I have seen the VSC/TC lights. When the CEL codes were cleared, the others were extinguished as well.
My guess is that I could not be setting U codes, which I cannot read with my scanner and therefore cannot clear with my scanner. VSC and TC just seem to come on with CEL.
Strange!
Doc
 
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