Oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil

wolfsmane

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Since there is thread-lock there, heat the screw for several minutes with a propane/MAPP torch (air mix only, no oxygen supplement). Hold the flame right on the screw end, don't bother trying to heat the surrounding aluminum. Try using the punch to drive CCW while everything is still hot. If no joy with that, then try the PB after it all cools.

PS: pix are quite blurry, don't help much.


Stupid question, but, the mapp torch(handheld bottle with torch top), it doesn't get hot enough to hurt the aluminum? I figured I better ask b4 making another mistake.
 

grcauto

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You need to understand metallurgy. The AL will absorb the heat at a much faster rate than the steel. Think on this.
 

billr

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Yeah, you would have to hold that propane torch on the aluminum for a long time to even get it up to 200F. That's why I said not to bother. When TIG welding aluminum castings I like to preheat them up to 400F in the area to be welded. That can take 15-20 minutes with propane, for just a 5# casting. That head is much heavier, and "heat-sinked" to rest of the engine. An oxy-acetylene torch or electric arc is much hotter than propane and can heat a local area faster than aluminum can conduct heat away from that area. Fast enough that there is melting in the local area.
 

wolfsmane

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Since there is thread-lock there, heat the screw for several minutes with a propane/MAPP torch (air mix only, no oxygen supplement). Hold the flame right on the screw end, don't bother trying to heat the surrounding aluminum. Try using the punch to drive CCW while everything is still hot. If no joy with that, then try the PB after it all cools.

PS: pix are quite blurry, don't help much.


Hopefully this picture is clearer, lol
 

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billr

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Looks like pliers were used once it was out a bit, but how did you get it started out?
 

nickb2

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With a small tip punch. Tapped it around until I could grab it with the pliers.
Very patient man.

Kudos.

I did not follow this whole thread, but I hope you did not have to go to heads. Ok, forget what I just wrote, read the rest, you did not have to go there, and I am happy it was the intake gasteks all along. That is where these engine like to show age, thx for those pics.

Back in my first days here, I posted a very similar thread, same engine, same flaw, every dang time.

I want to specifically thank you Wolfsmane for being so nice to keep up with the thread, and post pics of failure and success. Shows pride in what you do, and care for the ppl here, nods to you, you merit a special song.

 

wolfsmane

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Very patient man.

Kudos.

I did not follow this whole thread, but I hope you did not have to go to heads. Ok, forget what I just wrote, read the rest, you did not have to go there, and I am happy it was the intake gasteks all along. That is where these engine like to show age, thx for those pics.

Back in my first days here, I posted a very similar thread, same engine, same flaw, every dang time.

I want to specifically thank you Wolfsmane for being so nice to keep up with the thread, and post pics of failure and success. Shows pride in what you do, and care for the ppl here, nods to you, you merit a special song.



It's back together now and running. Everything appears ok for now.

Need to replace some old worn out parts. Question - underneath the throttle body is a nipple with an air or vacuum line that looks like it is running down to the transmission. I haven't had to the chance to get under it to verify...is it in fact running to the transmission? That line is extremely worn out, dry rotted and needs to be replaced. Would you happen to know a part name/number for it?

Thanks
 

wolfsmane

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It's back together now and running. Everything appears ok for now.

Need to replace some old worn out parts. Question - underneath the throttle body is a nipple with an air or vacuum line that looks like it is running down to the transmission. I haven't had to the chance to get under it to verify...is it in fact running to the transmission? That line is extremely worn out, dry rotted and needs to be replaced. Would you happen to know a part name/number for it?

Thanks

The vacuum hose looks identical as this Pcv valve hose here ->
 
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