Oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil

wolfsmane

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Since there is thread-lock there, heat the screw for several minutes with a propane/MAPP torch (air mix only, no oxygen supplement). Hold the flame right on the screw end, don't bother trying to heat the surrounding aluminum. Try using the punch to drive CCW while everything is still hot. If no joy with that, then try the PB after it all cools.

PS: pix are quite blurry, don't help much.

Stupid question, but, the mapp torch(handheld bottle with torch top), it doesn't get hot enough to hurt the aluminum? I figured I better ask b4 making another mistake.
 

grcauto

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You need to understand metallurgy. The AL will absorb the heat at a much faster rate than the steel. Think on this.
 

billr

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Yeah, you would have to hold that propane torch on the aluminum for a long time to even get it up to 200F. That's why I said not to bother. When TIG welding aluminum castings I like to preheat them up to 400F in the area to be welded. That can take 15-20 minutes with propane, for just a 5# casting. That head is much heavier, and "heat-sinked" to rest of the engine. An oxy-acetylene torch or electric arc is much hotter than propane and can heat a local area faster than aluminum can conduct heat away from that area. Fast enough that there is melting in the local area.
 

wolfsmane

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Dec 7, 2006
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127
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Since there is thread-lock there, heat the screw for several minutes with a propane/MAPP torch (air mix only, no oxygen supplement). Hold the flame right on the screw end, don't bother trying to heat the surrounding aluminum. Try using the punch to drive CCW while everything is still hot. If no joy with that, then try the PB after it all cools.

PS: pix are quite blurry, don't help much.

Hopefully this picture is clearer, lol
 

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billr

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Looks like pliers were used once it was out a bit, but how did you get it started out?
 
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