P0299 code on kid's car 2014 Chevy Cruze about 75K miles

[JP]

Make

Chevy

Model

Cruze

Year

2014

Miles

75k-ish

Engine

turbo, I think it's a 2.0L

He had a coolant leak from the cheapo plastic coolant outlet which he repaired and there was a code set when the engine temp went up when the coolant got below that critical level. Code set was P0299, Turbocharger underboost. Could this be related to the coolant leak/overheating? He's in Phoenix and I'm in Detroit, kid knows nothing about cars despite the time I spent making him help when they were in high school.

Anyway, I bought him a code reader and that's what he read out. I told him to clear the code and see if it recurs now with the coolant leak fixed.

Is this one of those seemingly unrelated codes that pop up?

 

[NickD]

Had a 2010 Cruze, was disturbed about a 1/8" outer diameter line feeding that turbo so replaced it with a 1/4" line, also have to use synthetic oil even though it cost a buck more for a five quart bottle at Walmart, Chevy dealers were charging 40 bucks more, but still didn't know if they replaced the filter or were using synthetic.

Conventional oils would gum up that turbo, many on that Cruze site were having problems. Only problem we had was a large pickup rear ending this thing when my wife was legally stopped at a traffic light and that was the end of that car.

Already passed that five year PT warranty if it needs a new turbo. It actually did have a 36 psi turbo boost. Also had a switched over vacuum switch to a vacuum motor for power brakes. Don't have any manifold vacuum with 36 psi in the intake manifold.

 

[billr]

That has an air/water intercooler for the intake, correct? Maybe, when the coolant got hotter than normal, the turbo efficiency went down enough to set the code. Or, maybe when the PCM detected over-temp, it opened the turbo boost gate; although you would think then the PCM would know why turbo boost was low and set a different code. Maybe, *gasp*, the turbo started to seize from over-temp, but it wasn't fatal.

Yeah, fix the cooling system and clear the code, then see if it comes back.

 

[NickD]

I didn't care for how GM did that cooling system, no radiator cap, cheap plastic hose to the reservoir also plastic, thermostat was 220*F claiming more efficiency, and that plastic was seeing 25 psi. The O'ring on that reservoir cap had to rotate with the cap and would bind and leak.

For warranty repair went to four different Chevy dealers, none would honor the most obvious faults, a women from Milwaukee 300 miles away was suppose to come up to approve the warranty, she never came, warranty was worthless so had to do the repairs myself.

I was not joking about that little tiny 1/8" outside diameter oil feed hose to the turbo, only form of lubrication, but that was on a 2010, maybe they increased that on the 2014.

Real problem with this car was no side lighting with the head lamps, making 90 degree turns on streets in town, could not see. Only solution was to install fog lamps. Was lucky to buy an OEM kit from ebay for 100 bucks., dealer wanted 400 bucks to install them. Instructions were stupid, remove the front bumper, have a power right angle screw driver to save all that work. But I was lucky because two months later, had to go to a dealer to reflash your BCM so the fog lights would work, wanted 200 bucks for that.

That drunk that rear ended our Cruze actually did us a favor, got full retail value for it.

 

[NickD]

2014 Cruze turbo has a 1.4 L engine.

 

[nickb2]

2014 Cruze turbo has a 1.4 L engine.

Just to rectify this comment, the cruze in 2014 had 4 engine types. 2 of them were 1.8l but with affix G and H. 1.4l and also 2.0l.

Underboost codes come almost never with a codes such as your cooling problem. I agree, fix coolant issue and see if underboost code comes back, which I am most certain it will.

Is the wastegate rod jammed up. There is a tsb for these garrets turbo. I will try to find it.

But right now, I just made a roasted chicken and my girl friend is coming over for supper and movie night. She loses interest in me when I type too much here. I will get back to this one tomorrow.

In the mean time, I will upload a chart for your code, maybe that will help while I get cooking on. Chicken and potatoes carrots and chocolate cake for after. I usually get a kiss before the end of movie.

So I am going to post for a 2.0l since you THINK it is. Normally first instinct are the best ones.

Here is that tsb I was taking about, look there, very common.

 

[nickb2]

If air is escaping the intercooler, or turbo itself is detroyed, who knows, but right now, focus on wastegate movement and any thing you might see like in the pictures of the tsb.

Here is a snapshot of wastegate solenoid, that needs to work or no boost. Or underboost,

How is the car running is it wonky or fine.

 

[nickb2]

This is one of the most often seen causes I see on these cars. I know because the police use them for interviewer and investigator cars to save money that dont need an interceptor car. One thing I did not expect once on one of these garette turbos, was that the actual wastegate had cracked enough to cause underboost. .

So that one actually needed a turbo, all the other ones, just some ducting problems and the wastegate system jamming needing a bit of gm tsb innovation, I like the color picture. GM

 

[NickD]

Turbo has one shaft with two turbine blades on it, exhaust drives one, other is driven in the air intake circuit. Provided that shaft can get lubrication. Simple test is to put a pressure gauge in the intake circuit, that will verify if this is the problem or not.

Don't see what coolant temperature has anything to do with this, been on that Cruze board for years, try going there, lots of guys had turbo problems, one cause is using conventional oils. They gum up.

 

[JP]

Thanks guys, sorry for the delay. I'm actually out in Phoenix with the car while on vacation. Codes cleared, it reset codes. I have a few tools but am not in my garage in Michigan. Yes, it is a 1.4l engine and the P0299 code reset.

In addition, listening to the engine, the evap canister purge solenoid is clicking loudly. I figure on simply replacing the solenoid, it's only 40 bucks or so and minimal tools needed.

In any case, what easy diagnostic thinks can I do with minimal tools (not talking the turbo off!) to help sort out this P0299? Also, if we can't fix it right away, the turbo just won't work correctly, right? Poorer performance is all we should expect until it's fixed? It seems to run and idle fine, although I don't know how well it accelerated when it was working correctly.

Any advice?

 

[billr]

Do you have live-data available? Do you see any hose/fitting/port on the intake that you could tap into to check what boost pressure is achieved while driving? Have you located that boost control valve/rod, can you see it moving at all? I appreciate your conundrum, being far from home/tools, but maybe investing in a few tools for diag while you are on-site will be cost effective.

Yeah, if the turbo was inop, for any reason, I don't think it would hurt the engine any. The car would just be a complete dog. I would think the usual drive would be able to tell from a quick drive.

I'll sure try to help you "talk this through", but keep in mind that I will be talking about engines in general. I don't think I have ever even seen one of these...

 

[JP]

Sorry, no live data. I'll check the wastegate rod per Nickb2's TSB.

I don't have any significant time in the car to judge the possible lack of performance and the kid...well, let's just say he doesn't pay attention to these things. He's non-mechanical to the extreme. Yes, I tried when they were growing up...and failed to get them to at least have a rudimentary understanding or, better yet have a curiosity as to how things work. Nada. But being a dad is a never ending job.

Anyhow, I'm also wondering if replacing the evap canister purge solonoid will help the slightly rough idle. I'm going to clean the MAP sensor (using the proper cleaner, of course) since I'm sure it's not been serviced. Also will have a look around the engine bay to check for whatever might be ready to be replaced.

I've got a couple days to goof around with the car, then back to Dreary Detroit.

Never mucked around with a turbo before. My Solstice has a 2.0l turbo which will probably need attention at some point, since I'm keeping that car around.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING and a sincere thanks for all the help you guys have given me over the years.

 

[billr]

Well, I have three grown sons who never did have much interest in learning "hands on" stuff. I understand your situation. Take it for a drive yourself and do a couple of full-throttle pulls. If the turbo is not working, I think you will be able to tell.

I'll say again, if you can find any port on the intake system to tap into. you can check to see if the turbo is working to some extent with just $5 worth of clear vinyl tubing from the local hardware store. Make a U-tube water manometer and load the engine with the trans in gear and brakes on. All a bit of a bother on your vacation visit, but if you leave and the car has to be submitted to the mercy of a shop, they may come back with an (expensive) "bad turbo" diagnosis. You will be back in Detroit wondering if you have "abandoned your kid to the wolves"...

 

[nickb2]

Poorer performance is all we should expect until it's fixed?

yes

 

[nickb2]

I'm also wondering if replacing the evap canister purge solonoid will help the slightly rough idle

Yes if it is stuck open, its constantly sucking vac and will cause idle issues and evap leak codes.