P2810 Toyota 2014 RAV4

Mikerizer

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Make
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Year
2014
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Engine
2.5L
CEL and TRAC lights came on my daughter's RAV4 today. My son-in-law took it to AutoZone, for a code read. It came back with P2810 Pressure Control Solenoid "G" Electrical. I don't have the car yet, but should tomorrow. I'm going to check the condition of the transmission fluid...level, color, whether it's dirty, etc. I can't smell (been anosmic for 13 years), so I'll see what my wife can tell me about the smell. I'll ask her to do a comparison between it and another car.

I'm thinking of changing the fluid and filter. If the problem is the solenoid, which one is it? AutoZone lists a Duralast Transmission Control Solenoid TCS00569 for a mere $51.49 and a Duralast Transmission Control Solenoid TCS00414 for a whopping $453.99! (neither in stock in my area)

So, what are the most common/plausible solutions for this code? It is driving herky-jerky, with hard shifts.

Thanks as always for your help!
 

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billr

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$450 is too much for any of the solenoids. Too much even for a whole rebuilt valve body ( do a search for "U760E valve body").

I hope there is an external resistance check you can do on that solenoid; we will have to wait to see what the experts can come up with. Maybe an external pressure check, too.

Well, Rock Auto shows solenoids similar to that $450 one for about $80. However, there are two variants, a "small body" and a "small can", that look pretty much the same to me. This could get tricky...
 
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nickb2

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Good morning mike, I will try to answer to the best of my abilities.

Hope all is well BTW and maybe when you get your wife to smell for you, it will fix it.

I actually had to google
I cant imagine my life with no smell. I would be an even more terrifying cook than I already am. :oops:

Ok, here goes.

Code p2810

first I need to know if it is a AWD or FWD cuz wiring may differ and I may steer you in weeds.

But I will start with a chart for the FWD, cuz most ppl dont buy the awd cuz of the added cash for option. etc.

@billr, I will try to answer your question, the solenoid in question should have 5.6ohms approx.

At mike, here is what I found, hope it is helpful.

;)

ok, I am having a printer pdf problem, so I cannot virtual pdf that print file.

but maybe a screenshot of the pins may help, test at ecm first, will rule out external resistance.

If you have more than 6 ohms on this circuit. faulty solenoid, if once solenoid disconnected, and still have high ohms, not solenoid.

Screenshot (32).png
 

nickb2

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ok, either the internet went crazy, or my computer is crazy, but I cant upload either files.

I cannot even upload a screenshot of ecu pin test.
 

nickb2

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ok, did a restart on my browser, thinking that is the problem.

my settings go wonkers when other ppl than me f with my water cooled pc.

So I am going to give this another go.

sorry mike. my pc is a full crack thing that ppl dont get, so when I let them on my pc, usual dr phil oprah random clicking and bam, get a trojan

so, here goes, lets see if the trojan is gone and I can upload a chart for you.
 

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nickb2

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Now, I know or think I know you dont have a bi directional scanner.

But if you do have a buddy who has one, there is a option in the tcm that allows you to actuate each solenoid.

That would cut down time. but if your patient enough and have a santa helper, slash daughter, you can apply 12v to that solenoid no prob, if you here it click while listening with a stethoscope and it clicks, wiring is ok. Does not rule out a blocked body vale etc, but the algorithmically on these toys is pretty precise for car standards.

I would be highly surprised if it was the ecm, never seen that one before on these cars slash suv.

I am happy I got the upload issue resolved, hope I was helpful. Have a great rest of weekend
 

nickb2

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I also am seeing high prices for the part, I am sure this can be cheaper. I google my canada net and came up with this.


100$ish cheaper than the one billr found. But still way to expensive for my taste. Would like to see valve body removed and junk part that one out for a 10$ spot
 

Mikerizer

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Thanks for all the advice, and the document; I'll do my best to follow those troubleshooting steps!

I failed to mention this happened a day after replacing the battery...could that have something to do with this problem?
 

billr

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Well, it depends on why the battery was replaced. If the battery was really bad, then having a good new battery should not have caused this problem. However, if you just "threw a battery at it" to compensate/cover-up some problem in the charging system or wiring, then there may be a low voltage issue. Some types of auto transmissions are sensitive to low voltage.

PS: Nickb2, I mentioned those solenoids on RA for about $80, how could you find any for $100 less??? Do you have any idea why RA shows two different styles, and how the OP can tell what he has before dropping the pan?
 

Mikerizer

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So...Thursday the battery and TRAC lights came on. She took it to AZ and they said the battery would have to be charged to test. She didn't have time for that. Also, the cables were badly corroded. She brought it to me, and I cleaned the cables and sprayed some terminal protector on them. The lights went off, but it was still dragging a bit to crank. She took it back to AZ on Friday, and the battery tested bad. She had a new battery put in it. I'm not sure which one she got, but I advised her to get the Duralast Gold which I believe was 640 CCA as opposed to 580 CCA. All was fine Saturday, but then the TRAC light came on mid-morning while running errands.

Sorry I left this out. I'm assuming she has a good (new Duralast) battery in it now. I'll see what my little volt meter says at the battery.
 

Mikerizer

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My daughter just told me that the guy at AZ who replaced the battery said some kind of pin or rod was corroded off of the positive battery terminal? I can't find anything on this, but could it be something that would affect the voltage going to this solenoid?
 

Mikerizer

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So I pulled the positive terminal end off the battery, and took it to the wire wheel on my grinder. I do see the underside is corroded away, and maybe there's a slot for some kind of sliding clip? See pic.

When I put it back together and cranked it, the CEL and TRAC lights were OFF.
 

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