P2810 Toyota 2014 RAV4

[billr]

That battery terminal looks a bit sad, of course, but not too poor to still use. That is assuming that broken area is not where a smaller wire (about AWG 10) was attached... Take a look down below where that terminal would be for a dangling wire.. If no wire, and battery voltage is 14V or better at idle, I would dismiss the battery/charging as a possible problem.

That info nickb2 posted has the solenoid resistance and pin-out at the trans connector, I would certainly check that; should be pretty easy to do.

 

[Mikerizer]

Well, that victory was short-lived. I changed the positive terminal end out, and we changed the oil. When we cranked the engine, the CEL and TRAC lights were back on.

 

[billr]

Is the same code set again?

 

[Mikerizer]

I don't have a code reader...the one I had quit working, and I haven't replaced it.

I'm getting 12V at the battery...at idle, and even if I raise the RPMs to 2500.

Where is the ECM? Is it up by the battery in the pic I'm attaching, or is it down under the glove box? I feel like this is out of my wheelhouse.

 

[billr]

12V indicates a problem. With engine off, the battery voltage should be 12.6V minimum. At any rpm above idle voltage should be 13.5 to 15, with 14.5 being pretty common on modern cars.

Check for AC volts at the battery (engine running), that should be 1V or less. Also, check for voltage (DC) at the output terminal of the alternator. Check for voltage between the battery negative and alternator case (should be near-zero at all times).

 

[Mikerizer]

When you say check for AC volts, are you talking about alternating current, rather than direct current? I may just pull the alternator and take it to get it checked.

 

[Mikerizer]

OK, scratch that voltage reading. I checked another car and it showed 12V as well. I found another meter, and the car I'm working on is putting out 14.71V at idle. So I can rule that out. The original meter I was using is going in the trash.

This is making me feel like a dang idiot.

 

[Mikerizer]

Also, this is one of those Toyotas that doesn't have a dipstick for the transmission.

 

[billr]

I understand we are dismissing the battery again now; but yes, check on an AC (alternating voltage and current) volts range will show if there is excess "ripple" on the alternator output, caused by a bad rectifier diode in the alternator.

 

[bp042665]

if alternator is putting out to much voltage them solenoid go hay wire have seen this on a highlander dove us nuts till we unplugged alternator and shifted fine

 

[Mikerizer]

Wow...the alternator is a whopping $309! I want to get this right before I just start throwing parts at it. Billr, can you describe how I need to check on the ripple you are talking about? Do I have to have a scope to do this, or can it be done with a basic multimeter?

 

[Mikerizer]

Maybe this procedure? https://www.underhoodservice.com/alternator-ripple-testing-the-ghost-in-the-machine/

 

[bp042665]

Mikerizer im not saying it was a alternator i just stating if high voltage present it could cause this

 

[billr]

That procedure you linked-to is fine; no need for a scope yet. Note that the threshold in the procedure is a lot lower (100mVAC) than what I was suggesting (1VAC), post what you get. I was just guessing at a reasonable general-purpose value that would avoid false "bad diode" detection.

Like bp, I am not saying the alt is causing this problem, especially since you no longer think the charging voltage is low; but do that easy check for ripple anyway. Really, go down to that connector on the trans and check solenoid resistance pretty soon!

 

[nickb2]

Well, Rock Auto shows solenoids similar to that $450 one for about $80. However, there are two variants, a "small body" and a "small can", that look pretty much the same to me. This could get tricky...

I dont know why I said that billr, your statement sure said 80$

And yes, plz check the ohms on that solenoid, if at trans its out of specs, you know which side to go, control side, or execute side.