Rack and pinion replacement

abrad

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2007
Messages
210
Points
18
Location
New York
Make
Honda
Model
Accord
Year
2004
Miles
200000
Engine
4 cyl
Picked up this car for $200, rack and pinion leaks like a sieve.
I saw a little while ago that in order to get at and remove, the lower sub frame needs to be dropped a few inches. I’ve got the first 4 rear most bolts loosened, and then started looking at the rest of the setup. There’s a group in the center, second most rearward group, which I believe goes next. Hoping to get back at this coming weekend.
already know how to disconnect the steering shaft, the lines don’t look TOO hard to get to.
Any advice or tricks to do or look for when I get at it this weekend?

I’ll try and upload pictures tonite
 

NickD

wrench
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Aug 28, 2007
Messages
5,232
Points
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Old story with Honda's, thinking of the 80's when the whole family had them, could only use Honda, AT, PS, and brake fluid, any other brand, all would leak like crazy. Toyota's and Nissan's didn't have this problem.

Recall buying a complete PS seal kit from Honda for 35 bucks, took less than 30 minutes to install, but the rest of the day to remove and install that rack and pinion. Invented new words for that universal coupling and PS high pressure hose.

Replacing a clutch and pressure plate was a weekend job for a manual transmission, those half axles were rusted in solid and the whole engine could fall on you.

Who in the hell came up with a timing belt with only an inch clearance to the inner fender, another terrible job.

One good thing the Japs did was to wake up Detroit.
 

abrad

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Messages
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Points
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Location
New York
I can see that these two need to come off (both sides), then the subframe “should” drop.
 

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abrad

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Location
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I “believe” (but not certain) that this has to be removed/loosened. Anyone know for certain?
 

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abrad

Sr. Member
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Location
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First photo looks like the only easy way to remove the passenger side support is from the top with some long extensions. Hit with pbblaster and gonna let them soak. 2nd photo is drivers side. Forward mount looks easy enough to get at. Rear mount.... time will tell. And of course getting to the actual lines to remove them...
 

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NickD

wrench
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Messages
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Have a high pressure PS fluid and a return line hooked up to the rack, they have to be removed, PS fluid is going to pour out.

Recall a u-joint to the steering wheel shaft, that has to be removed, not easy.

Two tie rod ends into the yoke, nuts, need a tool to push those out.

Been a long time, think about four bolts holding the rack to the frame, then you can remove it.

Want to count turns when removing the tie rods, locking nut, so close to correct alignment. If you don't know how to check alignment should get it done. All they can do on these things is adjust the toe in, but will charge you up to 100 bucks for a four wheel alignment, rest of it is just a check.

Rack is also full of fluid, spills all over and makes a mess. Would check on replacement parts first, with many vehicles, won't even sell you the parts, had bad boots on some, can't have dirt get on the inside, only choice was to by a whole new rack, more than what the car was worth.

Finding this hard to believe, a brand new 2004 Honda rack for only 160 bucks on ebay! Dealers wanted around 800 bucks for one like this if it is true.


Good luck.
 

abrad

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Messages
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Location
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Looks like there are some engine mounts both top and bottom. Before I start dropping anything, I fully plan on jack and/or stands under the engine!
 

grcauto

wrench
Joined
May 29, 2014
Messages
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We use an engine crane and take the back two bolts out of the subframe and lower it down. It will tilt enough to do the job.
 

NickD

wrench
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Messages
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Ha, purchase a 1980 Plymouth Horizon for the kids to drive to school, rack and pinion steering linkage boots both had cracks, dirt could get inside. Went to my Chrysler Plymouth dealer to purchased new boots, not for sale, only way to get them is to purchase a new rack for 600 bucks.

Dumped that car and purchased a Honda. But someone put in the wrong fluid and leaked like crazy, but didn't see it, inside of the boots. So for 35 bucks, got a complete seal replace kit with new boots. Had to pull the entire rack and pinion out, high pressure hose always testy, but just 2 or 3 bolts held the rack to the vehicle. Wasn't that bad of a job.
 

Corvair69

Newbie
Joined
Mar 5, 2022
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Have a high pressure PS fluid and a return line hooked up to the rack, they have to be removed, PS fluid is going to pour out.

Recall a u-joint to the steering wheel shaft, that has to be removed, not easy.

Two tie rod ends into the yoke, nuts, need a tool to push those out.

Been a long time, think about four bolts holding the rack to the frame, then you can remove it.

Want to count turns when removing the tie rods, locking nut, so close to correct alignment. If you don't know how to check alignment should get it done. All they can do on these things is adjust the toe in, but will charge you up to 100 bucks for a four wheel alignment, rest of it is just a check.

Rack is also full of fluid, spills all over and makes a mess. Would check on replacement parts first, with many vehicles, won't even sell you the parts, had bad boots on some, can't have dirt get on the inside, only choice was to by a whole new rack, more than what the car was worth.

Finding this hard to believe, a brand new 2004 Honda rack for only 160 bucks on ebay! Dealers wanted around 800 bucks for one like this if it is true.


Good luck.
Similar experience with my 04 Kia Sorrento, found an “inexpensive” rack on eBay ($245 vs $450 everywhere else). Toughest part was separating the coupler from the rack. I measured the tie rods exactly & positioned the coupler spline the same as the old one, but steering wheel was still off by 90 degrees. Alignment fixed that (readjusted tie rods).
 
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