Rear defroster doesn't work, '06 Impala

gullythumper

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
247
Points
18
Location
Bedford Co, Pa
Make
chevy
Model
impala
Year
2006
Miles
177,712
Engine
3500
having bought my '06 Impala only a few months ago, and keeping it in the garage, AND the very warm weather, hasn't required me to try to use the rear window defroster until today. It doesn't work. The only thing I see in the book is a relay for it. The indicator light in the switch lights up, but I have no idea of how to do my own troubleshooting of it past that. Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

NickD

wrench
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Aug 28, 2007
Messages
5,210
Points
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Most are 25 watts, with it on, should get 14 volts back there at the connector. With the connector removed resistance of the heater should measure 1.7 ohms. If infinity, could try an aftermarket but the correct way is to replace the rear window. I no 14 volts back there older cars used a 15 minute timer, newer part of the BCM.

They really put a large load on the alternator when starting off, I just used a brush or my hand to wipe off the snow.
 

brcidd

Hero Member
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Nov 16, 2006
Messages
276
Points
18
look for the primary connector- on passenger side kick panel I believe, I've seen a "hot spot" at the terminal, that melted the plastic from a poor connection.
 

NickD

wrench
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This may help 2008, Chevy never changed that much:


Blame the EPA for outlawing electroplating in this country, my company had the same problem but couldn't find decent platers in Mexico so went to Thailand, China really sucks. Green is the color of copper corrosion. I had my share of problems with other GM and Ford cars.
 

gullythumper

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Messages
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Location
Bedford Co, Pa
I will check that out. Good video. Hope I can get to that plug. I don't have any special tools to pop the plastic push pins out, but will try my best. It didn't say in the video, but when he inserted the relay and heard it click, can I assume he had the switch on in the dash?
 

NickD

wrench
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Those tools are very expensive, make sure you disconnect your negative battery lead first, may blow something up. Suppose to be a very common problem with Chevy's, but other GM cars as well. Use to talk to the engineers in switches, complained they couldn't electroplate anymore. Thank you EPA for moving another industry to China. Semiconductors were the first to go.

Just dealing with mild acids that can be neutralized before dumping. Never helped us solve problems, just fined us or shut us down.
 

gullythumper

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Messages
247
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Location
Bedford Co, Pa
OK. The relay has hot power, and also the switch turns off and on at the relay. I can get to the plug under the left side kick panel below the fuse panel, as shown in the video. There are NO burnt or discolored wires. Now, on both sides of the rear window are connectors. I tried grounding my test light and put it to each connector's metal parts but get no power to either one, unless I am not making the proper contact. I need the wiring diagram if someone can put it on here, so I can check out power at the plug shown in the video
 

gullythumper

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Messages
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Points
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Location
Bedford Co, Pa
got a bit ahead of myself. At the connector under the right fuse panel, there's a big tan "lever". It appears I have to push that lever to get the plug to separate. I don't want to break anything, but modest pressure on that "lever" doesn't do anything. Am I missing something here, or am I on the right track?
 

billr

wrench
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Does the lever show in the video? If so, about what time? If not, posting a picture may speed this along.
 

gullythumper

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
247
Points
18
Location
Bedford Co, Pa
I got the plug out to where I could see it clearly and figured out how to separate the halves. Sure enough, the pin for the defroster was cooked. I made the repairs as in the video and it works like a champ. I even left the power on for a good five minutes to be sure there was no overheating, and it remained cool to the touch. That video was right on!! Thanks for every one's responses. I owe ya'll a beer
 
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