Rebuilding the 4L60E for reliability and a long life

jay

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#1
I want to start this thread to collect info from the tranny pros on this forum on rebuilding the 4L60E to ensure a reliable rebuild. What items do you always replace (that others might not), what part manufacturers do you source your parts from; what upgrades do you do; specific measurements/adjustments on clutch packs, etc that you have learned with give the best results, etc. What type of cluth material is best? How do you prevent the P1870 problem from occurring in on rebuild, etc.

I'm sure there is a wealth of knowledge out there from those who have learned a few hard lessons on these units and have some items they always check/replace to prevent future problems.

I want to collect his info and save if for a future rebuild on my 98 C1500 2wd when it becomes necessary. I inherited this truck from my father and it has 53,000 miles and tranny was serviced at 35,000 miles.
Thanks, jay
 
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#2
Always replace the convertor and flush the rad coolers.
The convertor quality is one of the main things to go for.
Always use good quality clutches and seal kits.
And go threw the hole thing.
Take it down to bare bones and inspect and clean all parts and check bushings and plantary gears and thrust washers.
The plastic sealing rings require special tools to install.
Bushings may need special drivers.
Some of the Clutch packs need special tools to remove and install

Transmission parts places have good repair hand books with a world of information.
They give update and things to look for and all repair info.
Like ATSG and ATRA
 
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#3
Although I'm not a trans guy, I'll agree with what crunch posted. One thing though, some oil coolers can't be effectively flushed. The stacked plate type like I have on my K1500 Sub may leave deposits in the cooler no matter what. When I do my tranny it'll be replacement time for the cooler. You should use the biggest cooler that can fit, as heat kills the fluid and the trans. I'd only worry about too large a cooler in extremely harsh environments, like the Yukon or Antarctica where temps can go to -40 or lower.
 

Cheef

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#4
Jay,

When in doubt, OEM will NOT leave you stranded.

Hit E-bay over the next several months. Pump alignment fixture, teflon seal installer/resizer, clutch and piston compressors....this is bare minimum.

Also, try and get the OEM manual again E-Bay or your favorite online bid site....search for 1998 Chevrolet C1500 Service Manual. This will have EXPLICIT instructions on trans overhaul.

The TRANSGO hardened valve body separator plate is a must as most will have a check ball blow thru the plate and it will need replacing. One of the few things that is better than OEM...although to eliminate the P1870 a new converter and get a new OEM valve body, you will have success.

Cheef
 

Transman

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#5
What year are you working on? Depending on the year will determine which upgrades are needed. I have many good solid upgrades for strength and durability on the 4l60e. What kind of performance are you looking for? Towing or High performance?
As to the dreaded 1870 code, the problem comes directly from a bad pump stator bushing, contrary to popular wives tales. I have yet to replace a VB to eliminate that code. Transman
 
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#6
Sonnax and TransGo have kits to repair the V-body PWM circuit for a 1870 code. I've fixed dozens of v-b with these kits.

Often if the vehicle sets the 1870 code and the converter clutch is slipping , often damage occurs to the lining material in the converter. So the repaired v-body is only part of the problem that needs to be addressed.

Make sure you install new bushings through out this trans and check for excessive wear on the areas where the bushings ride
 

jay

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#7
Transman said:
What year are you working on? Depending on the year will determine which upgrades are needed. I have many good solid upgrades for strength and durability on the 4l60e. What kind of performance are you looking for? Towing or High performance?
As to the dreaded 1870 code, the problem comes directly from a bad pump stator bushing, contrary to popular wives tales. I have yet to replace a VB to eliminate that code. Transman
Transman, it will be the 4L60E in my 98 C1500 2wd in the future. No problems; have just 53,000 miles. I'm just trying to collect info for the future.
Thanks, jay
 

jay

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#8
jay said:
Transman, it will be the 4L60E in my 98 C1500 2wd in the future. No problems; have just 53,000 miles. I'm just trying to collect info for the future.
Thanks, jay
I remember is trans class at tech school a 4L60 that had the external gear broken away from the reaction shell (?). Instructor said this was common failure on 4L60. Is there a stronger replacement for this?
 
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#9
Yes

ATRA put outs some very good hand books on 4L60E transmission updates and repairs.
Also if you apply for ATRA membership you will have a world of infomation at your finger tips.
 

buzzstpoint

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#10
I've redone a 95 4L60e

Wasn't as hard as I thought, I had hardparts fail including the case.
the ATSG manual is a must. gives you step by step to rebuild.

Joel over at http://www.murphysautomotive.com/
helped my out with all the parts I needed to rebuild my transmission.
 

Transman

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#11
There is a sun shell nicknamed "The Beast" and I have never seen one of these break. I would recommend Part-Rite for your soft parts & torque converter, plus Bill can guide you to customary parts that you may not think of. Their number is (800)225-0020. Transman
 

marine6212

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#13
let me start out by saying thanks for letting me join your forum!! I just had my 4L60E tranny rebuilt it is in a 2000 chevy blazer 2X2.
it had 104,000 miles on it. The shop replaced the Converter (rebuilt one), lock up solenoid, H/D resuction shell, 2 shift solenoids, complete used rebuilt pump and a O/H kit. 3rd and 4th clutch packs were slipping. now the I get a code of P1870, when I looked it up it say's the vlave body is bad. I have taken it back to the shop and he has ordered onother one. How long should this rebuild last me? I drive it 100 miles 5 days a week. plus any miles I put on it on the weekends. Is there any thing I should do to keep this tranny as strong as it is right now? would a shift kit help it?

Thanks,
Marine6212
 
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#14
You are welcome.

A code 1870 does not say valve body is bad.
Valve body is a cop out for the real problem. :)

It is a componet or clutch slipping code and problem.
It takes proper testing to find the root cause of the slipping or code.

If it has just been rebuilt take it back and tell them to fix it on there dime.

If rebuilt right and serviced good it should last as long or longer the the origional transmission.
Well over the 100K.
Let us know how it goes.
cRUNCH
 

Transman

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#15
Just an add here, it could be a rebuilt pump or it could be a used pump but it cannot be a used rebuilt pump. FWIW this is usually where I find the main leakage to cause the dreaded 1870 code, the pump stator bushings that nobody seems to ever replace. I have yet to find the problem inside the Valve Body although it is always a possibility. Crunch is right let the company learn on their dime. Transman