Timing belt replacement: 1998 Dodge Neon 2.0 SOHC

jay

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98 Dodge Neon 2.0 SOHC, 125,000 miles.

I'm going to help a friend change the timing belt on his car.
I'll get a subscription to alldata.

Any tips or pitfalls to be aware of before tackling this job?
I've done a few honda civics, and toyota camrys in the past.

Also, should the tensioner be replaced; what about other timing components?

thanks,
jay
 

opelgt

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There are timing belt kits available. They contain the belt, idler(s) and sometimes the tensioner assembly. How old is the water pump? With the front of the motor apart I would recommend replacing it.
 

Mobile Dan

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Make sure you have a puller capable of removing the crank pulley. They can be very tight and a bolt on puller won't work.
 

jay

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Thanks for the info.
I'll check around and see if any store has the timing belt kit; will do the wp also.
As far as damper puller, I have the OTC 6267 kit and it says it will cover the chrysler 2.0. I have used it on 3.3s in the past.

thanks,
jay
 

greasemonkey

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Also rec you replace the right front engine mount that is in the frame rail. This mounts makes a clicking noise when it goes bad and it best to replace it when you have it all apart. If you have a hyd t-belt tensioner you will need to update it with a new style mechanical type. There are kits available to do this as you will have to replace the timing covers and if you do you might as well replace the cam and crank seals. Not a hard job just time consuming and very tight work area. HTH Greasemonkey :)
 

Cheef

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"Not a hard job just time consuming and very tight work area...." unless you have hands of a five year old and semi rigid bones. You will also need a forcing cone to get the pulley back on the crankshaft. Long bolt with some washers and a nut might work if the bolt is high grade. The OTC kit gets them off, but not back on.

Cheef
 

NickD

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This never made sense to me, in a single drive belt system with high tension, every pulley sees the same load, alternator pulley is held on with a single nut, four tiny screws hold on the water pump pulley, idlers and tensioners, one bolt with a nut, power steering pulleys, a press fit, AC compressors normally have a snap ring, but the damper pulley is welded on.

A while ago, purchased a used 84 Honda Accord for my kids, visited my sister 300 miles aways, was told it just had a new timing belt, the liar. Kids called, dad the car won't start. I just tossed in my tool box not know the problem and drove down. Timing belt was broke, oh, my God, I didn't bring any pullers! But removed the pulley bolt anyway, and was able to slide off the damper pulley with my fingers. Thank God, I said, somebody finally has some common sense.

Worse one I can recall was on a 55 Ford 289 I was overhauling for a friend, broke an OTC puller trying to remove that darn thing, had to cut the pulley with a torch and split the sleeve before I could remove it. Read later that Ford was cranking out a new car every minute or so, explained that, vehicles were assembled when they were still red hot. Back then a new pulley was only a couple of bucks, today with these rubberized bushing pulleys that required a second home mortgage to purchase because that rubber rots out, well I don't understand that either, claim with that rubber, engine runs a little quieter. So again you have a pulley that is welded on, but falls off anyway because the rubber rots out. You can't win.
 

jay

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Cheef said:
"Not a hard job just time consuming and very tight work area...." unless you have hands of a five year old and semi rigid bones. You will also need a forcing cone to get the pulley back on the crankshaft. Long bolt with some washers and a nut might work if the bolt is high grade. The OTC kit gets them off, but not back on.

Cheef
Thanks for the info Cheef.
I've got hands the size of hamhocks so am looking forward to the blood donation to the wrenchgods during this job.... :ROFL I have bandaids onhand and alcohol also (the drinking type) to relieve the pain.... :ROFL

I have the Mac Master crankpulley installer set which should cover me for the damper reinstall.
 

NickD

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It helps to polish the crank and inside the damper with 400 grit sand paper and lube with synthetic oil. Tell me about hand size when the largest pair of gloves you can find still fit way too tight. But I like leaving my blood all over my work. Normally not too bad with a four banger, but try a V-6 or a V-8 for changing these belts or a timing chain. Putting this large engines in a FWD vehicle is kind of crazy for maintenance. Least in a RWD vehicle, can remove the radiator to get a couple of more inches of room.
 

Mobile Dan

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Getting the mount bracket bolts out is tricky....jack the motor way up and down. Take notes to help when yo go back togeather.
 
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