Timing Belt

DJM1972

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1993 Chrysler Concord 3.5

Timing Belt and Tensioner
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
3.5L Engine
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Release the fuel system pressure. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake manifold plenum. Cover the lower intake manifold during service.
4. Remove the radiator sight shield, if equipped, upper radiator hose and the accessory drive belts.
5. Remove the timing belt covers.
6. Mark the timing belt running direction for installation. Align the camshaft sprockets with the marks on the rear covers.
7. Remove the timing belt and tensioner.


To install: ,
NOTE: This procedure can only be used when the camshaft sprockets have not been loosened or removed from the camshafts.
8. Pre-load the belt tensioner as follows:
a. Place the tensioner in a vise the same way it is mounted on the engine.
b. Slowly compress the plunger into the tensioner body.
c. When the plunger is compressed into the tensioner body install a pin through the body and plunger to retain plunger in place until tensioner is installed.
9. Align the crankshaft sprocket with the TDC mark an the oil pump cover. -' -
10. Align the camshaft sprockets between the marks on the covers.
11. Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and going in a counterclockwise direction. After the belt is installed on the right sprocket keep tension on the belt until it is past the tensioner pulley. 12. Holding the tensioner pulley against the belt, install the tensioner into the housing and tighten to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
13. When the tensioner is in place pull the retainer pin to allow tensioner to extend to the pulley bracket. 14. Rotate the crankshaft sprocket 2 revolutions and check for proper alignment of the timing marks on the camshaft and the crankshaft.
15. Install the timing belt covers and remaining components.
16. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
17. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

A few questions

1. How do I release fuel presure
2. What is the intake manifold plenum? This is just the cast aluminum top part
3. What is the radiator sight sheild
 

Mobile Dan

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I hope someone will correct if I am wrong, but I don't think you have to relieve fuel pressure, take off the plenum, or drain the coolant. Just take off the upper rad hose and make a little mess.

The radiator sight shield is that plastic piece where you lay your wrenches while you decide what to do next. Keeps you from seeing the radiator.
 

greasemonkey

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This is how I do them. Remove upper rad hose, you can drain coolant so as not to make a mess. Remove rad fan assy, both drive belts, now take all three timing covers off yes three. The small right one, the large one that covers most of the front and the tiny one on the bottom behind the front crank pulley which is held on by three bolts two of which also go through the large cover. You will have to rotate the engine so you can get a 10 mm socket to go through the crank pulley slots I use a 1/4'' drive ratchet set for this. Any way now that the covers are off rotate the engine until the timing marks line up. Mark the camshaft pulley mark to the marks on the engine, the mark you make must be between the 2 dots. If its not you are out of time. Now that its all marked remove the 2 bolts holding the the t/belt tensioner. You can now remove the belt. The belt will come out with the front crank pulley on you just have to tip it and work it around. At this point I would highly recommend you not only replace the t/belt but also the water pump and the t/belt tensioner pulley assy. The tensioner pulley has been updated to a metal pulley instead of the stock plastic one. If it has a metal pulley then it has already been changed. If you have to change the tensioner pulley it is held in by one 15mm bolt, it is a very tight fit but it will come out of there with the crank pulley still installed. Very common for water pump to leak and since you are there its easy to replace now. Make sure you clean the area before installing a new belt use brake clean. Install the new t/belt just tip it and work it around the front crank pulley now time the belt to engine. This is harder than it looks as the cam pulleys will want to turn due to the tension from the valve springs. You can use small needle nose vise grips to hold the belt to the pulleys but use just a slight holding pressure to to keep the belt from coming off you don't want to damage the belt. I use a tool made to clamp brake hoses for this but I have used needle nose vise grips in the past. So be careful. Once in time install the t/belt tensioner(don't forget to install the pin) and remove the pin, remove any holding tools you have on the t/belt or pulleys, rotate crank 2 turns and recheck your marks they should line up to the ones you made. If they don't remove tensioner and try again. If they do line up reinstall all other part in reverse order. I would also rec you replace you t/stat at this time just as a maint item. If you have any other questions just post back. Greasemonkey :)
 

Mobile Dan

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I have found it helpful to slowly rotate the crank pulley when working the belt past it. Move the pulley a minimum amount; don't get too far from the timing mark. Back up and try again if you have to. The goal is to get the new belt in without flexing it any more than is absolutely necessary. Removing the old belt is a "practise run".
 

DJM1972

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Man this was worse than I thought. When I took the covers off everything was bad. The belt was disentagrated the water pump was locked up and the Tensioner pulley was disentagrated. I bought the Belt and water pump already. But my buddy called Advanced and car parts warehouse for the Tensioner pulley and he said no one had it he said it must be a dealer part. So I called the dealer and they said I couldn't use my old hydralic tensioner with the Tensioner pulley they have. He said I would have to buy the tensioner and the pulley wich came to almost 200 dollars. So when I went back to advanced to pick up my belt I double check weather or not they had the Tensioner pulley. Nothing came up under Tensioner pulley. He click on something else and brought a picture up for the Idler "Idler pulley" and I think its what I need. And I bet it would work with my old Hydrualic tensioner (not sure though). It was only 45 dollars a hell of a lot cheaper than 190 bucks. Does anyone know on this I think I gotta cancel the dealer parts.
 

DJM1972

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Ok I called Auto Zone and they have a rebuild kit for less than those 2 dealer parts. They have the Tensioner pulley for a measly 35 dollars. So I got to cancel the dealer parts in the morning. I went out and started to try and scrape the old timing belt remains out of the gears and there has to be a better way than using a screw driver. Greasemonkey you mentioned using break cleaner does this work for getting melted rubber out of the gears too. Or would I be better off taking the gears off and wire wheeling them. I don't really want to take them off though because of all the other problems that causes. If I take the cam gears off then that adds about another 20 steps that I have to go through and a bunch more tools I have to buy/rent. I think I'd rather use my screw driver and just hope I got it clean enough.
I'll check and see if I have any break cleaner left.
 

DJM1972

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Ok, I figured out what interference engine means. But I am hoping for the best more so after I bought all the parts and am getting ready to reassemble this thing. What I need to know is what is the best position for the cam sprocketts for turning the crank gear.
I am able to get both of the timing marks on the cam gears eccept the one on the right is under tension when I line up the dots. So I'm going to wait till I am ready to put the belt in before I line up the marks on this one. Because I still have a lot of cleaning to do. All thought I'm about ready to give up on that. Instead I just started to get the big stuff. This car had a good motor and trany before this happened, hopefully it still is. The guy at Advanced said he has heard of people getting lucky. It would be nice if there was a dumby light that lit up after 100,000 mile saying replace timing belt. When I first bought this car 14,000 miles ago it sort of had a wineing sound. I just always thought is was the timing gears. But this car never had timming gears, it had a timing belt. Now I think back to that salesman and wonder if he knew what that sound was.
 

greasemonkey

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That year is not an interference engine. You should be fine so long as you did not blow a head gasket if the engine overheated. Now you know why I told you to update the w/p and tensioner pulley. You do not have to replace the hyd tensioner so long as it still has pressure. It will work with all updated parts. As far as parts go there are timing belt kits made for this engine that come with the updated tensioner pulley. Clean all parts, do not leave chunks of old rubber on old parts. Do not remove or loosen cam bolts as you will then have to retime the camshafts to the crank using special tools and a whole lot more work believe me you do not want to go that route. The old parts will be fine so long as there are no chucks on them that may cause failure of new belt. Use brake clean to help clean parts. On the water pump do not use any sealers or gaskets. Just use a new o-ring that should come with new w/p. You can use a little grease or Vaseline to keep o-ring in place while you put on the new w/p. Have fun I've done quite a few of these. HTH Greasemonkey :)
 

DJM1972

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I tried putting the belt in last night and man that is harder than it looks. Every time I tightend up the tensioner the marks would come out of place. So I was thinking if I put the mark a tooth or 2 ahead it would line up some what after tightening the T.
I done all this with the 2 mounting bolts for the Ten. all the way loose. The 1st time I tried it I had the T. mounted all the way in and it seemed to hard to get the belt around the T. Pulley.
Man I thought I had it made after I got the gears cleaned.
darn it
 

Mobile Dan

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I believe there is a way to hold the camshafts in place on that engine. Look for small hole in the top of the cover by the sprockets. If you stick a long punch or something in there, the tip of it will go into a hole in the camshaft ( if the cam marks are lined up). If you still have trouble, then make marks on the belt with paint or a ink pen then move the belt one tooth ahead or back until you get it right.

Don't forget to remove punches before turning the engine over.
 

greasemonkey

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Danica is right about the holes on top is the cover. You can use a #2 phillips screwdriver. These holes are use to make sure the timing is correct as they line up with small detents in camshafts. They discontinued the holes in later years because of damage to timing gears caused by people leaving tools in the holes after work was done. I don't use this method but you can if it helps you. I usually use a small hose clamp to hold the timing belt to cam gears or you can use small needle nose visegrips with very light pressure. Just enough pressure to hold belt on gear with out falling off. This makes life much easier. Good luck HTH Greasemonkey :) You can do it!!!!
 

DJM1972

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I got it! Still got a few hours of work left but I started it tonight and it sounded great. I was a little worried when I released the tensioner. After I don't know how many times of loosening and tightening the 2 mounting bolts for the Ten. I think I strip one. Thank goodness it was the last time. When I released the tensioner and turned the crank a couple of times the right gear and crank were dead nuts. The left gear was one dots width from being perfectly centered. But none the less it sounded good when I started it. I just hope the hyd. Ten. was still good after having that pin through it for about a week. I just hope I can get about another 10 to 14 thousand miles or another year out of it. The fuel pump will probably go next.
Oh by the way thanks for the help once again.
 

DJM1972

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Well I got it started that evening and then came home after work the following day and it wouldn't start. I tried it all again and I'm about half a dots worth from dead center. I thought that was close enough but now I don't think it is. I have to go buy a bench vice and rent the balancer puller again because the one mounting bolt for the tensioner is pretty much completly striped. I pluged the transmisson lines and won't be putting the balancer back on till its running this time. The belt doesn't seemed to be jumping teeth so I think my tensioner is still ok. Can I take the aluminum housing that the tensioner bolts into off and if I can how tight do I tighten that back too. I only see 3 bolts holding this housing in I won't know till I get the pulley off.
I told my friend that I striped the hole out and he told me that he could do something to it (heli something not sure). I think he thinks the hole is in the tensioner but its actually in the housing that bolts to the block. I suspect plugs and wire also now. I took them out to help me turn the crank only to find out later that I didn't need to do that, it only caused more problems. I am sure I was over tightening the Ten. mounting bolts. I looked it the book and it said I only needed 21 pounds on them. Easy to strip aluminum holes out.
 
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