Topend noise

Chuck

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#1
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MAKE:Dodge
MODEL: Durango
YEAR
:2003
MILES: 201440
ENGINE
:4.7L V8
DESCRIBE ISSUE....I bought this car a little over a month ago. I changed the oil in it just last week. After doing that it started to "clatter" like several of the lifters are out of adjustment. It only does this when it has been sitting for more than 3 hrs. and it only does it for about 5 min. after starting . I used conventional 5-w30 oil and a bottle of Lucus oil additive. I know the motor is a single overhead cam MPI engine. I'm not as familiar with these newer engines as I am with the older single cam engines. I know if I heard this sound from an older motor I would change the lash on the pushrods and if that didn't help then I'd know it needed new lifters. Any help you can give would be great. I know the performance and fuel mileage isn't suffering and there is not smoke or other strange sounds or smells. Thanks for reading
 
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#2
I'm an optimist always easy cheap first...

First suggestion with a newly acquired vehicle - get a scan -yes even if the light is OFF!
Its full of oil - lets drive it observe performance - oil consumption- SCAN etc -get a new filter and a bottle of risolone -
Next weekend when you change the filter add the risoline - operate and advise ...
 
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Chuck

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I'm an optimist always easy cheap first...
It sounds that you are saying the issue was NOT there when you purchased vehicle ONLY after changing oil/filter triggered it?
If thats correct first knee jerk reaction -
filter some have a "drain back" issue- maybe a WIX not a fram.
Lucas - love it BUT without a reason to add that in winter- upping viscosity- I would use a detergent ie RISOLONE - those cam solenoids tensioners etc have small passages that gum up...

First suggestion with a newly acquired vehicle - get a scan -yes even if the light is OFF!
Its full of oil - lets drive it observe performance - oil consumption- SCAN etc -get a new filter and a bottle of risolone -
Next weekend when you change the filter add the risoline - operate and advise ...
That was the first thing I did was scan it. I have my own scan tool that goes everywhere with me. It showed no codes. One thing I forgot to say was the oil that drained out was very thick. Not like "really old"thick, but like a very heavy weight thick. I'll put a WIX filter and some risoline in this weekend
 

billr

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It sounds like the previous owner put in a very high-viscosity oil to help a low oil-pressure problem and sell this beast. I suggest you install a temporary mechanical oil-pressure gauge to see what you have now with "normal" oil.. do that soon!
 

nickb2

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#6
Agree with the above posts from Kev and Bill, imperative to get the proper oil in the engine with some form of cleaner conditioner, run it and observe. There may be a hidden banana peel in the differential, in your case, some additif such as the picture below. STAY AWAY FROM THIS CRAP. It is thicker than melasses in a fridge. Total crap only used for when you know your engine is going south and want a few more miles out of it, or sell the car/truck to some sucker!!!!! crap never buy.jpg
 

nickb2

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#7
Screenshot (92).png Screenshot (93).png Screenshot (93).png Screenshot (92).png After proper oil is in after a engine flush has been done to clean passages, only then will me/we advise as to a proper fix/diagnosis of engine.

I am vary familiar with the mopar engines. Worked warranty for them for many years.

If noise comes about after three hours (I did read that correctly, right?)

5w30 with lucas, noise still present, check the screenshot below. Highly recommend Pro-Lab products. Hard to get, but well worth it. Best product for this in my opinion.

http://www.prolab-technologies.com/products-123-20-dm-30-engine-decontaminant.php
 
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Chuck

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It sounds like the previous owner put in a very high-viscosity oil to help a low oil-pressure problem and sell this beast. I suggest you install a temporary mechanical oil-pressure gauge to see what you have now with "normal" oil.. do that soon!
I've been keeping an eye on it since this started and there hasn't been a change in oil pressure yet. Where can I hook up a mechanical pressure guage to this engine?
 

Chuck

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#9
View attachment 7669 View attachment 7670 View attachment 7670 View attachment 7669 After proper oil is in after a engine flush has been done to clean passages, only then will me/we advise as to a proper fix/diagnosis of engine.

I am vary familiar with the mopar engines. Worked warranty for them for many years.

If noise comes about after three hours (I did read that correctly, right?)

5w30 with lucas, noise still present, check the screenshot below. Highly recommend Pro-Lab products. Hard to get, but well worth it. Best product for this in my opinion.

http://www.prolab-technologies.com/products-123-20-dm-30-engine-decontaminant.php
Yes. If it sits for about 3 hrs. or more (i.e. over night or between parking at work and lunch time) And I start it up the noise comes back. But if I just shut it off and run into a store for a few minutes to about an hour I can start it and have no noise.
 

nickb2

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#10
One or more hydraulic lifters discharging or stuck from the sounds of it. It is normal for lifters to bleed down a bit because of engine wear, but from the sound of what you are describing, you don't hear the chattering after a very brief stop and coffee and go which indicate to me worn lifters and/or low oil pressure.

Tell me, what is idle like when cold start? Smooth? Rough? Loping?
 

nickb2

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#11
As for where to install a oil pressure gauge, see snapshot below. Or find another spot which houses an oil gallery. I preffer to tap in on where the oil pressure sensor is for true pressure. I have seen some tap into other places and get a low reading cuz of blockage.

Now if you want a permanent mechanical gauge, you will need an adapter to tee off so you can keep OEM oil pressure sensor connected. PCM needs that data as it passes through PCM on BUS line and CCD(continuous circuit detection) to instrument cluster. Screenshot (94).png
 

billr

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#12
"and it only does it for about 5 min. after starting"

That's what grabbed my attention. Five minutes is too long for things like worn lifters or a filter with poor anti-drain-back valve. How is that oil pressure being observed now, with the dash gauge or (gasp) just a warning light? I verify oil pressure is good (while clattering!) with an independent gauge, the consequences of poor oil pressure are drastic.
 
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#13
As I said easy cheap first come on guys POSITIVE thinking...
 
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billr

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#14
Regardless of an OP's skill-level, which we have discussed elsewhere, we have to rely on them giving reasonable and accurate answers; otherwise it is hopeless. If the OP is exaggerating about that time, then please let us know! Misinformation only gets in the way of us helping you. One last grump... I expect anybody in our society over the age of about 6 to be able to use a clock accurately, no "automotive skills" involved with that.
 

Chuck

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#15
Regardless of an OP's skill-level, which we have discussed elsewhere, we have to rely on them giving reasonable and accurate answers; otherwise it is hopeless. If the OP is exaggerating about that time, then please let us know! Misinformation only gets in the way of us helping you. One last grump... I expect anybody in our society over the age of about 6 to be able to use a clock accurately, no "automotive skills" involved with that.
When started the idle is smooth and even, the oil pressure according to the factory gauge on the dash says the oil pressure stays even at the midway mark of normal. And the 5 min. time limit is ROUGHLY sometimes it's a little less and sometimes little more but that is about the medium time unless I give the motor a little gas and that cuts down the "clattering" time by a couple minutes. When I put the
Risoline in is there a certain amount of time to run with it in? Or do I leave it in until the next schedule oil change?