Toyota corolla 2003 no crank.

My Toyota corolla does not crank, when i send power to the red wire in the ignition switch it cranks

  • it does not crank with the key. just klicking relay behind glove box.

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  • where is the starter relay ??

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billr

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Dan, every time I look at one of your attachments it is different, and often bizarre! I would try to explain but why bother? You probably wouldn't see the same thing I do, since I don't see the same thing twice.
 

Mobile Dan

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To clarify, topic title says 2003, questionnaire says 2002, text written by Horst says 2003. Wire colors at ignition switch are not the same for both years. Confusion reigns. I think this is a 2003 schematic, like Eric posted. ST2 is crank circuit. Black wire without stripe is battery power.
 

billr

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So, we are back to waiting for the OP to participate, to make some voltage readings at the BLK power wire and RED start-circuit wire while trying to crank.

Dan, the image in your reply #15 is still like kaleidoscope, do you have any clue what is going on there???
 
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Woo Hoo, finally found the elusive schematic I wanted! Hope iit doesn't morph into something else in a minute. Horst, if you turn key on and then provide power to the crank circuit, will the engine run? If so, you need a new Ignition switch. EDIT: Dang it, it changed again. OK, ignore the image, but read my words and answer my questions, if possible.
No it will not start if you apply power to the crank circuit with the ignition on.
 

billr

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Horst, confirm that the terminal numbers and wire colors on your switch are the same as shown in the latest schematic posted by Dan (same as one from EricC, I believe). My understanding is that you blow a fuse in your test light/probe when trying to connect 12V to that BLK wire, so that indicates a short in that part of the circuit. Next step would be to disconnect just the BLK wire (de-pin connector, if necessary) and apply 12V to that terminal of the switch and see if the engine will then crank and start. That would confirm that you *only* have to chase that BLK wire back towards the battery... Note that you may have to use a simple wire to try powering the switch, the probe fuse may not be able to handle the starting and ignition currents.
 
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I guessed on this and not sure that it matters, but the schematic is for an '03 Corolla SE
So Sorry guys, i was wrong my corolla is from 01/2002 and it was built in canada. Just read this of the sticker in the door jam.
 
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Horst (OP), can you post a picture showing the terminals on the ignition switch, clear enough to read the numbering? I'm getting more confused as we go along. I was relying on the schematic posted by EricC, but that was for a 2003. However, what NickB2 has posted indicates the 2002-2005 are all similar.

Nickb2, I wish there was a way to read that schematic better, but I don't think it shows the switch, just goes as far as a junction connector. I've blown it up as much as I can, but still can't read it well enough. Looking at some of the other attachments takes me into the weeds deeper... one shows the switch terms, labelled "1,2,3,5", but the text alongside refers to "3,4,7,8". I (and the OP, I hope) appreciate your efforts to provide the info, but I'm wandering here, unable to understand just what we are working with; so unable to help the OP.
I will try to take a picture but i know for sure that my ignition switch has only six pins, and the fuse and relay box in the engine compartment is right behind the battery on the inside fender and it is not a square box it is rectangle. I try to get some pics.
Thanks for all your efforts and help.
 
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Woo Hoo, finally found the elusive schematic I wanted! Hope iit doesn't morph into something else in a minute. Horst, if you turn key on and then provide power to the crank circuit, will the engine run? If so, you need a new Ignition switch. EDIT: Dang it, it changed again. OK, ignore the image, but read my words and answer my questions, if possible.
If i apply power to the crank circuit witch is probaply the red wire in the ignition switch plug, the starter cranks but the engine will not start or run.
And when i reinstall the ignition plug to the switch and turn the key to the start position there is a relay behind the glove department that klicks.
 
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Horst (OP), can you post a picture showing the terminals on the ignition switch, clear enough to read the numbering? I'm getting more confused as we go along. I was relying on the schematic posted by EricC, but that was for a 2003. However, what NickB2 has posted indicates the 2002-2005 are all similar.

Nickb2, I wish there was a way to read that schematic better, but I don't think it shows the switch, just goes as far as a junction connector. I've blown it up as much as I can, but still can't read it well enough. Looking at some of the other attachments takes me into the weeds deeper... one shows the switch terms, labelled "1,2,3,5", but the text alongside refers to "3,4,7,8". I (and the OP, I hope) appreciate your efforts to provide the info, but I'm wandering here, unable to understand just what we are working with; so unable to help the OP.
20150816_164951.jpg 20150816_164509.jpg
 

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Horst (OP), can you post a picture showing the terminals on the ignition switch, clear enough to read the numbering? I'm getting more confused as we go along. I was relying on the schematic posted by EricC, but that was for a 2003. However, what NickB2 has posted indicates the 2002-2005 are all similar.

Nickb2, I wish there was a way to read that schematic better, but I don't think it shows the switch, just goes as far as a junction connector. I've blown it up as much as I can, but still can't read it well enough. Looking at some of the other attachments takes me into the weeds deeper... one shows the switch terms, labelled "1,2,3,5", but the text alongside refers to "3,4,7,8". I (and the OP, I hope) appreciate your efforts to provide the info, but I'm wandering here, unable to understand just what we are working with; so unable to help the OP.
View attachment 8024
 

Mobile Dan

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Referring to pic of switch connector....bottom row has three wires....fat black wire should have full battery power at all times. Red wire should have power when key is in "crank" position. Double black/white tracer should have power when key is in "on" position and in "crank" position. Tell me what you find.
 
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Horst, confirm that the terminal numbers and wire colors on your switch are the same as shown in the latest schematic posted by Dan (same as one from EricC, I believe). My understanding is that you blow a fuse in your test light/probe when trying to connect 12V to that BLK wire, so that indicates a short in that part of the circuit. Next step would be to disconnect just the BLK wire (de-pin connector, if necessary) and apply 12V to that terminal of the switch and see if the engine will then crank and start. That would confirm that you *only* have to chase that BLK wire back towards the battery... Note that you may have to use a simple wire to try powering the switch, the probe fuse may not be able to handle the starting and ignition currents.
ok thanks i will try it.
 
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Referring to pic of switch connector....bottom row has three wires....fat black wire should have full battery power at all times. Red wire should have power when key is in "crank" position. Double black/white tracer should have power when key is in "on" position and in "crank" position. Tell me what you find.
With the ignition off i got only power on the brown wire.
With the ignition on i got power on Brown, Black/yellow and Blue/red.
The fat black one is ground or shorted to ground.
 

billr

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Is the BLK still shorted to ground if you disconnect the harness from the switch? Can you extract the pin for the BLK wire from the connector housing?
 
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